Jacko 2197 Report post Posted March 6 Have Varta in 130 and was in the 330, many years. Does battery stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1731 Report post Posted March 6 1 hour ago, Driftit said: Endurant Hella brand. Probably not as good as Varta, but tend to last longer than your typical Century battery etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angelo 24 Report post Posted March 6 2 hours ago, Driftit said: The Varta is 77AH. So would be fine. Not sure what the Endurant is. *i included my reply below* 2 hours ago, Jacko said: Have Varta in 130 and was in the 330, many years. Does battery stuff. gotcha, Varta seems to have a good shout however the Varta E44 that was recommended to me earlier by the shop wasnt an AGM battery reckon thats fine? or should I go with the top dollar Varta A7 that is rated AGM and at 70Ah lol 1 hour ago, Eagle said: Hella brand. Probably not as good as Varta, but tend to last longer than your typical Century battery etc. Gotcha, i'll keep that in mind i do think my current battery is an offbrand one soo Varta it is Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2197 Report post Posted March 6 (edited) Does your have stop/start? If not, no need (from memory at least) Edited March 6 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angelo 24 Report post Posted March 6 4 minutes ago, Jacko said: Does your have stop/start? If not, no need (from memory at least) Nah dont think i have one, Im guessing the start/stop is when the engine cuts off at the traffic lights? yeah nah never had it or even knowing our some of 130i's/n52 are capable of doing soo lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZ_InFerno 377 Report post Posted March 9 My baby is now for sale, I've listed it up on bimmersport here. Looking for 12,000. All details in the listing! 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1912 Report post Posted March 9 Does the starter motor need to come out to easily access the hole for locking the flywheel at tdc or has someone got a trick where you can get to the hole from underneath the car? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2153 Report post Posted March 9 Starters pretty easy to take out. Just unbolt the manifold and move it out of the way. Picked up a cheap 06 Auto today. Needs paint but otherwise has an extensive service history including it's Japanese history. 4 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2153 Report post Posted March 9 I actually wonder if the blue one was a Bimmersport members car once. Ton of work by Botany BM Workshop. Still has a BM Workshop plate surround. Since then it was driven by a young girl. Spent hours yesterday getting the makeup off everything. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2197 Report post Posted March 9 12 hours ago, Driftit said: Starters pretty easy to take out. Just unbolt the manifold and move it out of the way. Picked up a cheap 06 Auto today. Needs paint but otherwise has an extensive service history including it's Japanese history. Your going to need a red one now... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2153 Report post Posted March 9 21 minutes ago, Jacko said: Your going to need a red one now... That is actually what the wife said when I asked what color next jokingly. I nearly purchased a white 120i this morning too. But I am going to help the guy out instead. Replaced his Valvetronic and is unable to reset the adaptations. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Irobin 9 Report post Posted March 10 As some of you might remember I put the feelers out about my 130. I now have it up for sale locally, I was after some advice from you guys When I bought the car it had an oil leak from the rocker cover gasket, when this was fixed it had oil filter housing gasket, oil cooler gasket and valvetronic gasket replaced. Unbeknownst to me when I took it for the last wof it passed but the wof guy said it was leaking oil, I took it back to the mechanic and he said it has a tiny leak from the sump gasket. I was quoted 6 hours labour plus parts to fix. He explained as the oil pressure has built back up to full pressure it has made the sump gasket perish. My question to you lot is do I drop the price? Or pay to get it fixed, what do you think it's worth? Have had it up for $7,500 ono. Any of you guys interested? During my ownership it has had the following done. BMW 130i 2007 142,xxx km Preventative maintenance includes: Water pump (pierburg part) thermostat with BMW coolant, 136,000km Rocker cover gasket Oil filter housing gasket Oil cooler gasket Valvetronic gasket Spark plugs all replaced at 139,000km New Varta battery 10/5/2024 Brake fluid 138,000km Cabin filter 137,000km Transmission and diff fluid replaced and serviced 140,500km Service with oil and air filters 139,250km Its booked in for rear shocks this week but as far as Im aware it is just the shocks and sump that require attention, last wof had no advisories Receipts for all work carried out It’s got 461m style wheels with plenty of tread left on BF Goodrich tyres Headliner was redone Sept 2024 New bonnet struts 2024 I had the front bumper touched up and resprayed too but unfortunately the clear coat is coming off on the bonnet now as can tell by photos, Headlights were restored 2024 Cosmetic mods include: Apple carplay box and NZ radio coded in Short M sport gear knob Alcantara shift boot Alcantara handbrake boot New Idrive style knob Carbon fibre steering wheel trim Digital speedo coded in Bad bits : Comes with 1 key, has minor clear coat peel on bonnet, back left window doesn’t go down. and the leather from the rear and front left door card is starting to peel. That being said everything works as it should, air con blows ice cold, heater blows hot. the electric heated seats work mint, electric mirrors all good. \IMG_3740.heicIMG_3742.heicIMG_3743.heicIMG_3744.heicIMG_3745.heicIMG_3746.heicIMG_3937.HEICIMG_3940.HEIC IMG_3941.HEICIMG_3942.HEICIMG_3943.HEIC Appreciate any info you guys may have. Cheers Robin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danch 38 Report post Posted March 10 36 minutes ago, Irobin said: As some of you might remember I put the feelers out about my 130. I now have it up for sale locally, I was after some advice from you guys When I bought the car it had an oil leak from the rocker cover gasket, when this was fixed it had oil filter housing gasket, oil cooler gasket and valvetronic gasket replaced. Unbeknownst to me when I took it for the last wof it passed but the wof guy said it was leaking oil, I took it back to the mechanic and he said it has a tiny leak from the sump gasket. I was quoted 6 hours labour plus parts to fix. He explained as the oil pressure has built back up to full pressure it has made the sump gasket perish. My question to you lot is do I drop the price? Or pay to get it fixed, what do you think it's worth? Have had it up for $7,500 ono. Any of you guys interested? During my ownership it has had the following done. BMW 130i 2007 142,xxx km Preventative maintenance includes: Water pump (pierburg part) thermostat with BMW coolant, 136,000km Rocker cover gasket Oil filter housing gasket Oil cooler gasket Valvetronic gasket Spark plugs all replaced at 139,000km New Varta battery 10/5/2024 Brake fluid 138,000km Cabin filter 137,000km Transmission and diff fluid replaced and serviced 140,500km Service with oil and air filters 139,250km Its booked in for rear shocks this week but as far as Im aware it is just the shocks and sump that require attention, last wof had no advisories Receipts for all work carried out It’s got 461m style wheels with plenty of tread left on BF Goodrich tyres Headliner was redone Sept 2024 New bonnet struts 2024 I had the front bumper touched up and resprayed too but unfortunately the clear coat is coming off on the bonnet now as can tell by photos, Headlights were restored 2024 Cosmetic mods include: Apple carplay box and NZ radio coded in Short M sport gear knob Alcantara shift boot Alcantara handbrake boot New Idrive style knob Carbon fibre steering wheel trim Digital speedo coded in Bad bits : Comes with 1 key, has minor clear coat peel on bonnet, back left window doesn’t go down. and the leather from the rear and front left door card is starting to peel. That being said everything works as it should, air con blows ice cold, heater blows hot. the electric heated seats work mint, electric mirrors all good. \IMG_3740.heicIMG_3742.heicIMG_3743.heicIMG_3744.heicIMG_3745.heicIMG_3746.heicIMG_3937.HEICIMG_3940.HEIC IMG_3941.HEIC 2.77 MB · 2 downloads IMG_3942.HEIC 3.37 MB · 2 downloads IMG_3943.HEIC 3.38 MB · 2 downloads Appreciate any info you guys may have. Cheers Robin I reckon it's already pretty cheap for a manual 130i.. how much is the quote for the sump gasket? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Irobin 9 Report post Posted March 10 13 minutes ago, Danch said: I reckon it's already pretty cheap for a manual 130i.. how much is the quote for the sump gasket? Sorry it’s an auto. Will get definite figure when it goes in for shocks and update Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1731 Report post Posted March 10 Not worth 7.5k imo, id say it would have to be priced in the 5-6k region to sell location dependent. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMWALEX478 0 Report post Posted March 11 Hi everyone, I hope you are doing very well. I just have a couple things here on my 2007 LCI 130i: First, I'm just having a few issues with rough idling and I'm getting code 1.2D06 for the air mass system. Id imagine that I have a bad MAF sensor but before I spend $300ish dollars with shipping I just want to check that buying a new MAF sensor actually fixes this. The check engine light goes on and off occasionally and now I have seen the check engine come on exactly on a large drop in rpms when idling twice if that means much to you. Could someone also please check the connector to their MAF sensor on their car for me, mine only has 4 receiving pins for the 5 pins that come from the sensor and I'm not sure if that's normal. Secondly, the rear tail lights do not illuminate when I have my main headlights on. They show the brake lights as usual and the rear fog lights work too. I have the code 1.9CA9 for faulty terminal 30A connection and I have no idea if that's related. The taillights have been replaced recently. If I have to order the MAF sensor what else should I order with it, currently just thinking air filter and cabin filter. Thank you all in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2153 Report post Posted March 11 (edited) 49 minutes ago, BMWALEX478 said: Hi everyone, I hope you are doing very well. I just have a couple things here on my 2007 LCI 130i: First, I'm just having a few issues with rough idling and I'm getting code 1.2D06 for the air mass system. Id imagine that I have a bad MAF sensor but before I spend $300ish dollars with shipping I just want to check that buying a new MAF sensor actually fixes this. The check engine light goes on and off occasionally and now I have seen the check engine come on exactly on a large drop in rpms when idling twice if that means much to you. Could someone also please check the connector to their MAF sensor on their car for me, mine only has 4 receiving pins for the 5 pins that come from the sensor and I'm not sure if that's normal. Secondly, the rear tail lights do not illuminate when I have my main headlights on. They show the brake lights as usual and the rear fog lights work too. I have the code 1.9CA9 for faulty terminal 30A connection and I have no idea if that's related. The taillights have been replaced recently. If I have to order the MAF sensor what else should I order with it, currently just thinking air filter and cabin filter. Thank you all in advance. I've not heard of a MAF going bad on one of these cars. Does yours it make a difference with it unplugged? or does the idle not change? Not sure at all about the tail lights sorry. Were they replaced with genuine lights? Have you reset the short circuit counts to see if they come back on? There is a limit for the number of shorts that can occur. Once reached even if the issue is resolved you need to reset that count before they will be supplied power. Edited March 11 by Driftit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMWALEX478 0 Report post Posted March 11 1 hour ago, Driftit said: I've not heard of a MAF going bad on one of these cars. Does yours it make a difference with it unplugged? or does the idle not change? Not sure at all about the tail lights sorry. Were they replaced with genuine lights? Have you reset the short circuit counts to see if they come back on? There is a limit for the number of shorts that can occur. Once reached even if the issue is resolved you need to reset that count before they will be supplied power. Yes, when unplugged it did seem to run a bit smoother, should I try driving it unplugged for a bit? The previous owner changed the lights and cost them around $850 so I would imagine they were OEM? I have not reset the short circuit counts and do not know how to do that either, is it easy to do? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2153 Report post Posted March 11 1 minute ago, BMWALEX478 said: Yes, when unplugged it did seem to run a bit smoother, should I try driving it unplugged for a bit? The previous owner changed the lights and cost them around $850 so I would imagine they were OEM? I have not reset the short circuit counts and do not know how to do that either, is it easy to do? Thanks. It is likely the MAF is working then. Have you had a look to see if it is clean? This vid shows a similar setup to what you have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2YWaFd1qyM As for resetting the shorts, you would need a good diagnostic tool. Do you know why the lights were replaced? Seems odd unless they were damaged. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2197 Report post Posted March 11 (edited) My 2c - Vacuum/intake leak and FRM needs a digital kick. Get a proper scantool, bimmergeeks protools is a very good bet, and itll help you figure out both. Way to early for the parts cannon approach. Edited March 11 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMWALEX478 0 Report post Posted March 11 14 hours ago, Driftit said: It is likely the MAF is working then. Have you had a look to see if it is clean? This vid shows a similar setup to what you have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2YWaFd1qyM As for resetting the shorts, you would need a good diagnostic tool. Do you know why the lights were replaced? Seems odd unless they were damaged. Cleaned it a while ago and it seemed to make a bit of a difference. I might try again when I replace the air filter. No idea about the lights sorry. Can you recommend a good diagnostic tool please. 13 hours ago, Jacko said: My 2c - Vacuum/intake leak and FRM needs a digital kick. Get a proper scantool, bimmergeeks protools is a very good bet, and itll help you figure out both. Way to early for the parts cannon approach. smoke test was done with no leaks at all, what will the scan tool do that will help the footwell module code? Can you also please check your connector to your MAF sensor to see if it has 4 or 5 pin holes, mine only has 4 receivers for the 5 pins from the MAF sensor. Thanks all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2197 Report post Posted March 11 Protools does coding. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2153 Report post Posted March 11 (edited) Yeah Protool from Bimmergeeks is good. https://www.bimmergeeks.net/ I will have a look at one of the plugs tonight for you. Could pick one up second hand from BMWorld or HellBm. They will have plenty. Genuine to cheap via spareto.com https://spareto.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=13627551638 Edited March 11 by Driftit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2197 Report post Posted March 12 And you'll be able to look at the actual outputs of the MAF and see if they are crazy or bugging out etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2153 Report post Posted March 12 Did any Jap 130's come with GA6HP19Z gearboxes? For some reason I thought they all came with the dreaded GA6L45R boxes. RealOEM states my Pre-LCI only had the GA6HP19Z. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
