The 130i Thread

[Matt 124]

On 5/13/2023 at 8:39 PM, M3AN said:

If you have Xenon headlights, and haven't created drain holes for your ballasts then be warned...

 

 

My drivers side headlight has just started flickering on and off this morning!! Got caught out by a couple of decent puddles in the rain last week, and my car lives outdoors anyway so I'd say this is exactly what has happened to me! Where did you get your replacement ballasts from, Dave?

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Yes it was mine. I bought it from the guy who imported it originally from Singapore, who was very misleading about the cars condition. There's a bimmersport ownership thread on it. 

My bro in law handled the sale for me at the time. 

[M3AN 4016]

1 hour ago, Matt said:

My drivers side headlight has just started flickering on and off this morning!! Got caught out by a couple of decent puddles in the rain last week, and my car lives outdoors anyway so I'd say this is exactly what has happened to me! Where did you get your replacement ballasts from, Dave?

I was lucky, my ballasts were fine, I cleaned the wet one out with water displacement spray (WD40, RP7, 5.56 etc) and let it dry. A good replacement would probably be available from Trademe or a wreckers.

[M3AN 4016]

Certainly not a 130...

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/135i/listing/4138031298

[E30 325i Rag-Top 2963]

Nice build, quite the sleeper.

[AndyB 20]

My car feels like it’s developed a slight loss of power, low down in the rev range. Seems to bog down between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm, then goes fine after that. Engine sounds fine, and no engine management lights on the dashboard. 

Has anyone had a similar issue, or know if this is an indication of a problem?

Cheers

Andy

[M3AN 4016]

4 hours ago, AndyB said:

My car feels like it’s developed a slight loss of power, low down in the rev range. Seems to bog down between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm, then goes fine after that. Engine sounds fine, and no engine management lights on the dashboard. 

Has anyone had a similar issue, or know if this is an indication of a problem?

Probably needs to be plugged in if you want any proper insight, I'm assuming there are no codes or errors?

You could try pulling the vanos solenoids and filters and give them a clean if you're flying blind but YMMV. This is probably a ~2 hour job max if it's your first time in there.

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Vanos Solenoids could be a likely candidate, definitely want to scan and check error codes to be sure 

[AndyB 20]

Thanks guys. Yes, no errors or codes coming up on the dashboard, but don’t have OBD scanner to check codes more deeply. 

May need to book it in for a proper check. 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Solenoids or other Vanos issues normally don't show up in the dash error codes. 

Definitely should own an OBD2 scanner if you own a modern BMW. Essential tool.

[AndyB 20]

Any recommendations on a good OBD2 scanner, without breaking the bank?

[M3AN 4016]

1 hour ago, AndyB said:

Any recommendations on a good OBD2 scanner, without breaking the bank?

I'd say either the BMW software (ISTA) or BimmerLink are probably the best bets.

If Epsom is convenient to you I'm happy to plug it in to my rig to see if we get any results, at least that'll be free.

[Antallica 15]

Speaking of scan tools, I ran my Carly scanner through mine and it came back with oil pressure switch (002F7B).

Anyone know of a good place to get one of those?

[AndyB 20]

Thanks for everyone's input. I removed/cleaned the Vanos solenoids yesterday, and despite them not looking too bad, the throttle response is now much sharper.

An easy job to do in the end; thanks YouTube!

[Driftit 2093]

On 5/29/2023 at 8:37 AM, Antallica said:

Speaking of scan tools, I ran my Carly scanner through mine and it came back with oil pressure switch (002F7B).

Anyone know of a good place to get one of those?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-oil-pressure-switch-12611710509

or

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-oil-pressure-switch-genuine-bmw-12612367061

 

 

[Harper 559]

Having trouble clearing a couple of airbag codes causing an airbag light on my 130i project. Has been on jackstands for the last couple months while I've been working on it, and the codes weren't there before. The battery did die once in that time, I charged it up with a ctek charger and it starts the car no problem now.

Getting two codes in INPA 93BA (seatbelt contact driver) and 93B0 (curtain airbag on the left). I've checked the seat connectors and everything seems to be good but still can't clear the codes. I'm at a bit of a loss for what could cause them other than the battery which following a charge seems to be working okay. Any other suggestions for things to check? The only other thing I can think is the wiring to the airbag module under the center console got pinched while I was putting the center console back in place but that feels like a reach. 

[Driftit 2093]

How are you seeing those codes? INPA may show more detail. 

[Harper 559]

1 hour ago, Driftit said:

How are you seeing those codes? INPA may show more detail. 

INPA. Screenshots of the codes below.

I swapped over the seatbelt buckles from left to right and the errors remained the same so that suggests it's upstream of the buckle. I'll pull the centre console out again tomorrow and have a look for anything not right there.

[Driftit 2093]

If not in the cabling then it could be the module itself.

[M3AN 4016]

I can't be much help with the specific errors @Harper bu I do recall having trouble resetting e36 SRS codes with INPA, are we (collectively) confident you don't need ISTA for SRS codes on the e8/9x platforms?

[Harper 559]

I think I was right in that the loom was pinched somewhere or something. I couldn't find any evidence where it would have been but after removing the center console and checking all the wiring the codes cleared fine. Put the center console back in place and no issues.

Now I'm struggling to bleed the clutch, I wasn't prepared for how much of a bitch it is. If anyone has any tips it would be much appreciated. I think I'm going to have to remove the slave and manually depress it by hand to bleed. Pedaling/pressure bleeding doesn't seem to help, the pedal is still almost at the floor.

[Matt 124]

20 hours ago, Harper said:

I think I was right in that the loom was pinched somewhere or something. I couldn't find any evidence where it would have been but after removing the center console and checking all the wiring the codes cleared fine. Put the center console back in place and no issues.

Now I'm struggling to bleed the clutch, I wasn't prepared for how much of a bitch it is. If anyone has any tips it would be much appreciated. I think I'm going to have to remove the slave and manually depress it by hand to bleed. Pedaling/pressure bleeding doesn't seem to help, the pedal is still almost at the floor.

The workshop manual says to remove the slave cylinder and completely depress the piston for bleeding. There's a special BMW tool to keep it depressed but it should be easy enough to do a makeshift version

[Harper 559]

3 hours ago, Matt said:

The workshop manual says to remove the slave cylinder and completely depress the piston for bleeding. There's a special BMW tool to keep it depressed but it should be easy enough to do a makeshift version

This was going to be my next attempt. Gives me hope, thanks.

[Harper 559]

I removed the slave cylinder last night, as I pulled it out and the piston extended it squirted fluid everywhere and is completely goosed. So that explains why I was having so much trouble bleeding it. 

Off to spend $250 on a new slave cylinder and clutch line yippee.

[M3AN 4016]

1 hour ago, Harper said:

I removed the slave cylinder last night, as I pulled it out and the piston extended it squirted fluid everywhere and is completely goosed. So that explains why I was having so much trouble bleeding it. 

Off to spend $250 on a new slave cylinder and clutch line yippee.

At least you identified the problem, that's a positive. Make sure you remove the clutch delay valve when you're in there, if you haven't already.