Anyone here lined their tin garage?

[NZ BMW 368]

Hi team,

We have a garage on our property which I assume was built in the 1970’s. Pretty standard NZ stuff - tin skin over wooden framing. 
 

I want to line this with a view to getting all my garden tools etc off the floor and onto the walls. Generally just clean up the space which is letting the property down! After that I intend to tackle the floor with either an epoxy or carpet tiles just to clean that up. There are a few cracks I’ll need to repair and I suspect the slab has moved as the side door drags - I have no idea if I can have that ground down (I’d hate to think what’s in the slab) so will consult a professional. 

From what I read the process seems to be: 

1. Building paper onto the tin for a moisture barrier. I will admit to being a novice with this - do you simply staple the paper between the studs as won’t be able to get in behind the framing due to the nails in the tin being there... does that then introduce moisture into the framing?

2. Insulation- which seems to be optional - I assume it gives some additional moisture protection?

3. Wall covering which can be anything from ply to MDF to plaster board - I think I will do ply (10mm enough?) for ease and durability. Will also paint it white to bounce some light around. 

Anyone done theirs and has any advice to share? Interested to understand what different people used and if they were doing it again what lessons they would have learnt. 

Thanks!

[andrewm 236]

Building paper/ moisture barrier needs to between the studs and the tin to be effective. This stops water ingress from outside reaching the studs and insulation and any condensation that forms from dampening the studs. 
 

Insulation is not a water barrier and instead will trap water, webs of black mould will grow through it nicely. It has a minimal effect on sound and really is just for temperature stability. 
 

If you are going to be here long term, paint brush apply clear metalex (like an oil clear stain that is a timber preservative preventing rot) to all the studs then line the walls with 12mm ply so you can fasten anything anywhere. Dont put insulation in. 
 

alternatively apply whichever lining but not completely sealing the wall, i.e leave 50mm gap top and bottom so the studs still get air movement. Again no insulation. 

[aja540i 1906]

I lined my Total span garage from new,  12mm ply , I also insulated it with sound deadening insulation, building paper between the framing and cladding (easy when doing from new) and painted it. Mine is 3M hip height but I only lined up to 2.4 to use less ply, the main issue you might have is the spacing of the framing probably doesn't work nicely with 1.2 x 2.4 sheets so you may have to install extra framing or waste some ply cutting it to size. 

I wouldn't go thinner than 12mm, it will bow and warp, also 12mm is great for hanging things off, and if there is any chance that water will get into the garage then leave a gap at the bottom of the sheets 15-20 mm to stop the water wicking up the walls.

It might be a good idea to think about power points at this stage, if you want more ( you do!) then now is the time to run the wiring.

I painted my floor with a water based 2 pack floor paint with grit in it, makes it nice and easy to clean up spills etc, but it is a mission to do.

[NZ BMW 368]

Those are all good points - I did wonder about the building paper and like people have pointed out, if you can’t get between the framing and the tin then it’s not as useful. 
 

So what I’m taking from this is that: 

- don’t bother with insulation (one less thing to worry about). 

- leave a gap at the bottom for airflow given that I won’t be able to form an effective barrier all the way round. 

- 12mm not 10mm ply.

Power - I think I am good, it’s a single garage and it’s got 4 double plugs in different areas already. 

[M3AN 4016]

Screw, don't nail, the ply on. That's all I can add to the above.

[NZ BMW 368]

13 hours ago, M3AN said:

Screw, don't nail, the ply on. That's all I can add to the above.

Yup - have that in my plan at least, I use screws for just about everything given the cost these days. Means you can also remove whatever you’re putting up to access services in future 👍🏻

[kwhelan 241]

i did mine a few months ago, like you was sick of the cobwebs dust and leaves that accumulated all the time. I just lined in jib because of the cost.  skyine garage the studs were 600 so that worked perfect with the sheets hung vertically so the joints were on studs and 2.4 just made the top plate i came up about 12 mm off the floor incase of puddles from a wet car but I also ran a pine skirting around floor because that 12mm gap was just a trap for leaves and crap that blow in and made sweeping so much easier. If it gets accidentally punctured its a 10 min job to replace a sheet. I also ran moulding around the window frames that finished them off because the jibs weak point is its edges. used a couple of pieces of 75 x 18 pine as mounting strips to hang all the gardening crap off at head height

lined area above workbench in ply for a tool board

it would have been better in ply or possibly mdf but I did it for $17 a sheet as opposed to $43 I think from memory but money was tight

has made a world of difference and even unpainted its 300 % lighter in there, should have done it 10 yrs ago

 

Edited April 3, 2021 by kwhelan

[NZ BMW 368]

That’s a bloody big price difference isn’t it for a sheet of JIB vs ply.... good idea putting a bit of pine across for tools. 

[andrewm 236]

If you don't mind the appearance you can get b grade sheathing ply from 0-$25 a sheet usually. Has been used as the cover for things or on pallets. 
Has big knots, a few dents and usually some dirt and footprints, check trademe and independent wood sellers. 

[Driftit 2078]

I'm getting 19mm ply in my shed. Putting a run through the mill at 3x1.2 to suite.

Sound deading bats in the workshop.

New build though.

[M3AN 4016]

26 minutes ago, Driftit said:

I'm getting 19mm ply in my shed.

As a matter of interest (rather than doubt), why so thick?

[Driftit 2078]

It's all the mill does now. Father in law works for JNL. But it means I can hang wheel racks and things from it. They are the only mill that does 3m apparently.

[Cement 871]

I did the garage at our previous house, same sort of deal as whats already been discussed ... installed some building paper within each timber cavity, insulated and lined with 12mm ply set the ply thickness off the concrete. Two coats of polyurethane and enjoy.

To get the official information on retrofitting insulation you can refer to this standard ... speaking from an occupied / house perspective you're supposed to get a consent for insulating external walls. Unsure of the in's and out's of a non-occupied building. Just go for it: https://tenancy.govt.nz/assets/Uploads/Tenancy/NZS-42462016-Energy-efficiency-Installing-bulk-thermal-insulation-in-residential-buildings.pdf