Blue Zoo - Olaf's LCI e46 325i Touring

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 22 Nov 2023

Distance: 208,921 kms

1. Rack boots & Oil Service

Replaced both rack boots with Febi kits (32131096910).  A shitty job made easier on a rack, somewhat easier when the Repco balljoint splitter is used.  Oil service (because why not, and largely short running since January) with a Mann Oil Filter (11427512300) and Penrite HPR 5 (5W-40 Synthetic).  My thanks to @Autoglym for working through the job with me.  Thanks also to Jon for the "More(y) Orange than Donald Trump super-sticky grease recommendation.  Brilliant stuff.

Fig 1:  A Nice Rack, yesterday

 

 

2. WoF re-check and WoF

Secured WoF for the next 12 months.  Now it needs a bloody good clean.  

Edited November 23, 2023 by Olaf
foty's

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 30 Nov 2023

Distance: 208,yyy kms

1. Wheel Alignment

Got in for a wheel alignment, bonus where times are getting busy as Xmas creeps up on us.  A near zero-toe alignment (around -0.6 each wheel) front and rear, it’s a dream to drive.  Flows beautifully through the curves, easy to bring off-centre… suits my driving style.  Ahhhhh.

2. Photo in traffic cost $150

hmmmm.  On my way home from the alignment, more traffic disruption in Welly.  Stopped in the traffic buildup, I thought I’d document the scene, with our Police managing a difficult situation where what looked like a gang member had abandoned their car at a traffic light.  Summoned to the side of the road by the officers, I was ticketed $150 for “using a phone”.  To my mind I was using a camera - I put the car into park before using it.  Oh well lesson learned, avoid contributing to the consolidated fund - and Police quotas - at all costs.  Wearing my seatbelt, car warranted, registered, insured, well-maintained.  A discussion and a warning would have been more appropriate; we had a most cordial exchange nonetheless.

[freaknout 47]

Bahhh!

That's a bit harsh.

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 11-13 Dec 2023

Distance: 209359 kms  

1. Headlamp Lens Replacement

My lenses were looking pretty average.  I scored some from @Autoglym ex pick-a-part (thanks man!) with very nice lenses.  I cleaned them up and got new seals.  Jon did the rest - made one great out of two, where wiring was aging or plastic fatigued from years in the sun.

Fig 1: at 21.5 years old and a number of polishes/restoration wipes, better to replace.  Surprisingly still passing VTNZ WoF.  Impaired vision, IMHO.

Fig 2:  21.5 year old Xenon choke wiring.  Beware!

Fig 3:  After.  Much better night vision.

Oooh as I said vision, twice... how about a musical interlude?

 

2. Brakes

New flexi-hoses front and rear.  Front calipers sandblasted and painted, new pistons, seals, slider pins, boots.  Full brake fluid flush.  The old pistons were pitted.  It's stopping much more nicely now, I think more of the stopping was acheived from the back!

Fig 4:  a dirty ol' front e46 325i caliper

 

Fig 5: Sandblasted, painted, ready to re-kit with new pistons and seals.

 

3.  Diff

Diff service.  Turns out the diff is a little tired (crownwheel and pinion) so looking for replacement 3.46 e46 medium case.  Cleaned, replaced output seals (pinion seal okay), reassembled with new drain/fill plugs, BMW sealant, and Diff Oil. New main bush.  Remember folks, you'll want front header-to-exhaust manifold gaskets (2), four exhaust bolts, and four exhaust nuts for this job, as you need to drop the exhaust.

Fig 6: Genuine BMW rear cover sealant, Input and output seals, Diff Mount Bushing, Fill and Drain plugs, Exhaust Bolt, Nuts, Gaskets.

 

Fig 7:  Before

Fig 8: "Good Bush"

 

Fig 9: Ahh, on it's way back together.

Jon also drilled out a broken bolt, helicoiled and found a replacement bolt for Diff Heatshield.

4. Transmission Oil Pan Bolt

Replaced a quick fix bolt with a genuine ZF bolt, so now all ship-shape and Bristol fashion.  During Trans service back in January, we’d spotted a couple of dodgy ones left behind by a previous Te Aro workshop that will not be named… 

Exceptional Service at Begley Motor Works, Marton.  Service photo credits:  Jon Begley (many thanks for the re-use mate).

We've had this e46 11 years 9 months, and she's humming.  I have a list of items for preventative maintenance that we'll tackle in the new year.

Looking at the diff photos, it's time I spent a little time beneath it with PPE, wire brush, rust converter and epoxy rust-seal paint, before those scabs of surface rust around the subframe get out of hand.

 

Edited December 15, 2023 by Olaf
Mooo, Photos, Formatting, Vidjo

[Olaf 3317]

Next items list:

• Replacement diff (e46 medium case) 3.46 (including the two small bushes, input and output seals, fill and drain bungs, oil, rear cover sealant)
• Replacement starter motor
• PCV system service (it's been a good 9 years or so since last done - do it while the starter motor is replaced
• Accessory drive service (pulleys, tensioners, serp belts)
• ARB bushes front and rear, rear shells (they're rusting)
• Endlinks front and rear
• Clean and rust paint the surface rust on rear subframe
• Replacement rear muffler, including hardware
• new sunroof seal
• new speakers in front
• Maybe install that Msport steering wheel with the stereo integration - need post-Takata airbag.

keeping it well-maintained.

Edited December 21, 2023 by Olaf
added two items

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 23 Feb 2024

Distance: 210,335 kms

1. Flat tyre

Hmmmm.  Drove the car Weds night, it was pulling to the left and seemed a bit dead.  Checked pressures… 3psi down on both fronts, right rear down 3psi, left rear down to 13psi (!).  Gark in the rim and a corresponding gark in sidewall - thankfully not deep.

Dropped into my trusty tyre guy this morning.  Nail found,  Tyre demounted, repair effected, remounted and tested, wheel reinstalled.  Job’s a good ‘un

 

2. Rego

Ordered another 12 months rego.  $106.

Edited February 23 by Olaf
Formatting, added section 2

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 20-?? Apr 2024

Distance: 211,112 kms

1. A whole lot of servicing getting done...

We've owned this car 12 years now, so she's getting a bit of a birthday - second time round on stuff we did years back, and more.  Starter Motor (the original one was starting to click so a precautionary replacement before it leaves my better half stranded), PCV Service (again), New accessory drive belts, pulleys, tensioners (again), A new rear muffler (ANSA Exhsaust pattern part) and mounts, and more.  It should be feeling great when I get it back.  Nothing like starting with a palindrome mileage eh?

[Vass 830]

What starter brand did you go with? Just went down the rabbit hole trying to figure out the best option nowadays. Didn't want to go with Bosch as their new units seem to have switched to 1.1kW from the 1.4kW that the originals came as for some weird reason. Chatter online seems to lean towards rebuilding an original rather than going with anything aftermarket... 

[Eagle 1662]

Never replaced a BMW starter motor in my life. All the cars ive ever owned look to have the original units in them. Id trust used OE starter over aftermarket.

[Olaf 3317]

10 hours ago, Vass said:

What starter brand did you go with? Just went down the rabbit hole trying to figure out the best option nowadays. Didn't want to go with Bosch as their new units seem to have switched to 1.1kW from the 1.4kW that the originals came as for some weird reason. Chatter online seems to lean towards rebuilding an original rather than going with anything aftermarket... 

I bought a VEMO remanufactured Bosch from Rockauto.  No pesky core charge (FCP).  I'm sure it'll be good enough, factory rebuilt.
Edit: oh wow thanks for the link to your thread.  Mine's a 12412354709 - those effite M54B25 donks just don't need the extra muscle the B30 requires 😉   I can only suggest you keep it simple mate, we all here are guilty at times of over-analysis slowing us down whilst we enjoy the research rather than the fruits of our labours.

 

39 minutes ago, Eagle said:

Never replaced a BMW starter motor in my life. All the cars ive ever owned look to have the original units in them. Id trust used OE starter over aftermarket.

You're lucky.  I had to replace starter motor in a Mitsubishi Sigma with 220k kms on it (things had changed - five years earlier I'd have bought a new solenoid and brushes, and put it back in - in 1997 chinese units were on the shelf and cheap.  I replaced one on a Maxima with about 170k kms... a common failure according to many taxi drivers I spoke with (the A32 and A33 was the alternative cab de jour from the questionable reliability of the falcodore of the time).  It's the first time I've done it in a BMW - it's the car my wife drives, given it was making noises it gets replaced before it leaves her stranded.  Can't see the point in wasting time with a used unit that might fail soon after install - for the effort (cost) of the work.  YMMV.

Edited April 26 by Olaf

[Eagle 1662]

Fair enough, if have to pay someone to install it probably makes more sense. I always inspect them and replace the brushes etc if needed. Remanufactured\rebuilt is such a broad term that you dont really know what you are truly getting for your money, same with alternators.

[Vass 830]

11 hours ago, Olaf said:

I bought a VEMO remanufactured Bosch from Rockauto.  No pesky core charge (FCP).  I'm sure it'll be good enough, factory rebuilt.

Interesting, didn't see that as an option on there when searching by part number. Oh well. 

I've ordered a Hella unit, will see how it goes. Not too fussed with replacement as I've figured out a way to get to it from underneath without having to take the intake out so not that much of a hassle.

Before ordering it I called up BM Parts to see what they stock locally, got offered the same Hella unit for $420+GST. From Spareto it's €76+30 shipping so all up $480 vs $190. Bonkers how we're getting shafted over here left & right

[Olaf 3317]

I dunno about shafted, try and run a business without adding the cost of your money tied up in stock on the shelf, pay GST and taxes, wages, KiwiSaver,. advertising, insurances, lease costs etc.

[Vass 830]

If there's a market for it then all power to them I guess. Personally, I find it hard to "support local" knowing that there was zero value added to the original product by the entity taking your money when you can get the exact thing from elsewhere for 1/3 of the price. I'd rather support businesses that, you know, do something. 

[Olaf 3317]

Consider then the plight of a business doing repair work on a customer car.  They need to pay for the overhead of a secure storage area or more lifts than they need, if a customer's car has to wait for discount parts from abroad.  It's more efficient for the repair shop to be able to source locally, and they'll pay the overhead to a local supplier that does something (next-day supply, warranty coverage etc) because it gets the customer's car off of his hoist/out of their workshop quickly.  

We're a tiny market; until we have scale nothing will compete with being able to source from a large market on $ terms.

[Olaf 3317]

Let's try that again...

Date: 20-31 Apr 2024

Distance: 211,112 to 211,118 kms

1. PCV Refresh, Starter Motor replacement.

Starter motor precautionary replacement - it was developing a rattle, showing it's age.  Refresh the PCV system as it was last done in June 2014, no sense in re-installing old parts after the Starter Motor replacement.  Full PCV service kit installed.

Fig 1:  Journey into the beast - intake manifold removed

 

2. Front of motor accessory drive refresh

Some rattles around the front of the engine.  It's at least ten years since we did the whole lot (belts have been replaced) tensioners, pulleys etc.  OEM INA and Conti belts.

Fig 2:  new bits ready to install

 

Fig 3: Nice new fresh front accessory drive kit installed

 

3. Rear Muffler Replacement

Mid mounts and rear mounts replaced as 22 years old - that rubber was looking cracked and crispy.  We'd had the muffler off a couple of times and Jon had noticed the rust on the top of the box was advancing... it was getting a little raspy, though interestingly hadn't raised concern through the last couple of WoFs.  BMW OE was a bit pricey for me - notwithstanding it's a quality stainless steel product... over USD1000 and back-ordered.  I sourced an OE pattern ANSA unit (yes, they of the OE to Ferrari and Lamborghini fame, amongst others) from Rockauto... it's not apples-with-apples being aluminised steel, yet even included chrome extension tips that my original unit didn't have (BMW tips are USD80 each!).  Fitment is good Jon managed the dissimilar metal weld between the stainless pipe and the new muffler with aplomb.

Fig 4: I'm very happy with that. A weld, yesterday.

 

Fig 5: Didn't Wesley Snipes have a strapline: "always bet on (Bogan) black."?

 The sound is nice - it's quiet enough, similar to the old one and my impression is it breathes better - perhaps the baffles had choked things up in the old one?  The rasp of the split box is gone, replaced by a bit more of a muted rasp when the loud pedal is opened.  Happy days.

Figure 6:  New box in-place.

4. Rear ARB Endlinks, ARB Bushes, Shells replaced

I'd noticed the shells were rusty when it was last on the hoist.  We were replacing fronts and as these are the same age, time to replace them too,  Genuine BMW bushes.

 

5. Front ARB Endlinks, ARB Bushes replaced

Clunk in front suspension on compression over bumps.  Now eliminated, and steering is significantly smoother.  Bonus!  

 

6. Coolant top-up, Pressure test TOK

Jon found the coolant down by nearly a litre - I don't think I'd checked it cold since water pump replacement.  A top-up and precautionary pressure test revealed sytem is pressure-tight, no leaks, Test OK.

 

7. Replaced insulation - cable bunch passing the oil filter housing

We'd seen that a couple of services back, something I should have done.  The flexible conduit/shielding breaks down with heat exposure and leaves the cluster of wires exposed.  I conceded and asked Jon to do it.  

Fig 7:  lovely new flexible conduit.

 

8. Observsations

I've a few things to monitor or source.

• moist Power Steer reservoir.  It's 12 years since that was replaced - rather than do the O-ring, will replace the whole thing
• moist HP PS Hose (pump to rack).  I have a very good used one on my purple tag sourced for the e30, so we'll use that as replacement.  The e30 can have the UK purple tag-in-e30 hoses.
• Bung on PCV valve
• Source replacement front ARB (it's getting mottly beneath the bushes). YYmm P/N________
• Squeak from front strut persists... sh*t if I need to do strut mount bushes and spring seats again (it's 8 or 10 years already) I guess that's Konis or Sachs M/Sport and Msport springs... a decision for another day.
• Alternator bearings starting to rattle.  Monitor.
• Steering - monitor.  Play upper steering UJ/lower column?

Fig 8: A 22 year old 212k km alternator, in-situ

Summary

The car is purring, and feels really nice to drive - my better half grabbed it as soon as it was back, and later commented it drove really well.  So we're back to a solid place, though more to monitor.  All work carried out by Begley Motor Works, Marton.  Top quality, top service.  Worth the drive from wellington, always a pleasure to catch up with Jon and Keren.  You should go there too!   Images courtesy of Jon at Begley Motor Works.

Next items list:

• Replacement diff (e46 medium case) 3.46 (including the two small bushes, input and output seals, fill and drain bungs, oil, rear cover sealant)
• Clean and rust paint the surface rust on rear subframe
• Source 24mm front ARB p/n 31351094542
• New sunroof seal (Part ready to fit)
• New speakers in front - consider a new head unit with screen, fit rear camera?
• Maybe install that Msport steering wheel with the stereo integration - need post-Takata airbag.

 

Edited May 2 by Olaf
photos, formatting

[Olaf 3317]

So I finally got a replacement diff.  Thanks to Jon for finding the car, a non-running M54B25 325i Touring, pre facelinft slicktop.  It was quite a mission, aligning help from different mates.  Won the auction, kindly lent car trailer by another mate.  Road trip!  All the way to Taranaki in my freshly-serviced F25 X3 X-Drive 30D, to pick up a 2000 325i Touring with the all-important 3.46 diff.  Couldn't have done it without help of friends.  

Dragging the parts car home, Taranaki

 

Diesel Fillup in Wanganui

Having got back to Welly with a 700km round-trip day, I reflected on how well the X3 tows.  The trailer towed well, the little X3 just torqued away.  

It turned out the oil that came out of the diff is nice and clean.  Sadly the alternator had been nicked.  Bonus was some speakers and an amp.  Got some spare mirrors.  And the post-recall airbag for sports steering wheel, so I'll be able to fit that wheel and get the steering wheel controls working, code up cruise control with luck (research needed).
 The rest of the parts car is now Jon's to part-out - so if you've been wanting to build an e46 Touring race car now's your chance!  

Nice clean oil out of the new diff.  Photo:  Jon @ Begley Motor Works

Next weekend was Matariki, so I cleaned Blue Zoo and prepped it to take on a car club trip to the Wairarapa.  Still such a fun car to drive.  [EDIT] The Suspension is tiring, feeling a bit worn. [/EDIT]  I think it's worth sorting out.  The Hawk HPS pads are working beautifully.  The ANSA replacement exhaust has a nicer rasp to it.  Barely any louder, just a slightly different note.  Ideal.

 

Blue Zoo in the Wairarapa, 29 June 2024

 

So I need a FRONT Anti roll bar 24mm: P/N 31351094542 in excellent condition.  Can anyone help?

And it's time to get sorted with the Diff replacement, get the steering wheel swap done, and get some sounds sorted.  I'll go for a Kenwood mechless head (like in Grey Thunder), fit the Alpine amp, and two-way component speakers in the front door to replace the factory units.  I guess the boot speakers will be knackered too so I'll replace them.  I'll also need to make sure I can use the steering wheel controls with new stereo, so there'll be a conversion unit there too.

Perhaps August/September. 

Edited July 8 by Olaf
stereo approach.

[Vass 830]

26 minutes ago, Olaf said:

I'll be able to fit that wheel and get the steering wheel controls working, code up cruise control with luck (research needed).

It's a relatively straightforward job, no coding required, just 3 wires to run - 1 to the DME and 2 to splice into the LCM wiring. So long as that's done correctly it will just work. This guide is probably the most detailed one out there.

I've got a spare set of Msport sway bars (24mm F & 19mm R) but yeah, down in Christchurch unfortunately. Happy to pass them along if you know of anyone heading up your way.

[hunter 408]

On 7/5/2024 at 9:07 PM, Vass said:

It's a relatively straightforward job, no coding required, just 3 wires to run - 1 to the DME and 2 to splice into the LCM wiring. So long as that's done correctly it will just work. This guide is probably the most detailed one out there.

 

Can verify,have done this in both E46 and E39

[Olaf 3317]

I've found 61120016012 on FCP at a very reasonable USD43, part number matches for everything I've found on 'retrofit multi-function steering wheel BMW e46'.

I also found the attached PDF - though the part numbers referred to in the instructions don't mention 61120016012.  

Unable to find 61120016012 on a parts search in RealOEM?  

EDIT:  This is a very succinct retrofit video: 

 

steeringwheel.pdf

Edited July 8 by Olaf
add yewtoob

[Vass 830]

You really really really don't need that retrofit kit. Yes, it's not that much money but it's a waste of money none the less for what it is - 3 simple wires with standard BMW pins used in 90% of plugs throughout the car and 2 overly complicated splice connectors. I thought there was more to it so that's what I used the first time doing this retrofit (I bought the same kit for $21 from FCP 3 years ago, and even then it was overpriced) but have found literally no benefit to it. I've done 4-5 of these retrofits since and have never bothered, have just depinned and repurposed wires from parts cars and used a pair of these simple splice connectors instead. They work just as well and the end result is way less bulky than the weirdly complicated connectors that come in that kit.

I've got a whole wiring loom sitting in a box in the garage, more than happy to depin some wires for you and post them your way if you don't happen to have any laying around already. Honestly, couldn't recommend that kit any less, not worth wasting money on.

[Eagle 1662]

I use Posi-taps for those jobs (aliexpress has them). Less damage, more secure and easier to install and remove.

[Olaf 3317]

7 hours ago, Vass said:

You really really really don't need that retrofit kit. Yes, it's not that much money but it's a waste of money none the less for what it is - 3 simple wires with standard BMW pins used in 90% of plugs throughout the car and 2 overly complicated splice connectors. I thought there was more to it so that's what I used the first time doing this retrofit (I bought the same kit for $21 from FCP 3 years ago, and even then it was overpriced) but have found literally no benefit to it. I've done 4-5 of these retrofits since and have never bothered, have just depinned and repurposed wires from parts cars and used a pair of these simple splice connectors instead. They work just as well and the end result is way less bulky than the weirdly complicated connectors that come in that kit.

More electrical faults caused by those nasty connectors than twisted wires!   I appreciate it's fairly straightforward, unfortunately I don't have a large array of connector pins at my disposal or a decent space to work in.  I should get my sh*t sorted, get some pins and a new crimper.

 

7 hours ago, Vass said:

I've got a whole wiring loom sitting in a box in the garage, more than happy to depin some wires for you and post them your way if you don't happen to have any laying around already. Honestly, couldn't recommend that kit any less, not worth wasting money on.

Wow, that's a very generous offer, thanks.  I guess we have a whole parts car I could do the same with (albeit a couple of hours north of me); I won't ask others to do what I wouldn't do myself 🤔.  Time's tight so I'll pay for the kit.  I do remember them being USD21 - had it on my parts list for ages.

 

2 hours ago, Eagle said:

I use Posi-taps for those jobs (aliexpress has them). Less damage, more secure and easier to install and remove.

Thanks I'll take a look.  also time to get a new crimper kit and some of those heat shrink solder jointy things.  I'm a former Telecommunications tech, anything less than an excellent connection is a fault waiting to happen!

[hunter 408]

on part 61120016012, i got one from Fabian at Coombes here in Hamilton. in fact i got 2, one for my E46 and the same for my E39 a few years later and mapped the wires based on different colors.

Fun fact the E39 one does the same thing, but uses different colored wires, is NLA and cost a bomb. 

 

Edited July 9 by hunter

[Olaf 3317]

Going to update the audio thread here 

Edited July 27 by Olaf