Blue Zoo - Olaf's LCI e46 325i Touring

[Olaf 3341]

Date: 15 Aug 2024

Distance: 213,120 kms

1. Oil Cap Replacement (pass); Tailgate Bump Stop Replacement (fail).

Finally replaced the old oil cap with a new OEM item.  It had been sitting on the hall table for months - kept forgetting it.  Less successful was replacing the rear hatch bump stops... turns out no captive nuts, so not only a 20mm spanner for topside, a 20mm crowsfoot or stubby spanner is required for the inside (or remove the trim).  Deferred.

Here's a pretty pic

[Olaf 3341]

Date: 08 Nov 2024

Distance: 215,176 kms

1. WoF

sailed through WoF this morning, with a few advisories relating to oil staining.  It's a BMW, they're not known for keeping it on the inside!!

[Olaf 3341]

Date: 11 Nov 2024

Distance: N/A kms

1. Parts gathered.... Diff, and Front ARB

Great news.  The parts car produced a decent diff.  Jon @ Begley Motor Worx has now degreased, prepped, painted the replacement 3.46, new seals all round incl BMW sealant on the cover.  Ready to go with Penrite Synthetic.

Fig. 1  what a diff'rence a day makes

24mm front ARB sourced from Hell BM (Thanks Ray!).  I'll strip, prep, paint when it arrives.  

It's 5 years since we did the rocker cover gasket, so I've sourced a replacement (Elring) with bolt seals, and new BMW washers.  Fifteen of the buggers! BMW part number 11127838077 (for ref).

Nearly ready to sort it out.

 

 

2. Next items list:

• Replace right rear tyre (or both rears) - it's at 2.9mm
• Fit Replacement diff (e46 medium case) 3.46 (including the two small bushes, input and output seals, fill and drain bungs, oil, rear cover sealant)
• Replace the Power Steering fluid reservoir
• Top-end oil leak - replace valve cover gasket.
• Prep and install replacement 24mm front ARB
• New sunroof seal (Part ready to fit)
• Install that Msport steering wheel with the stereo integration, have sourced a post-Takata recall airbag from the parts wagon.
• Clean and rust paint the surface rust on rear subframe
• Then in near future I'll get into the stereo as per this thread...
• Next year:  could be time for Lesjofors MSport springs, and either Sachs Msport shocks or Konis.  Jeez, next April we'll have had this car 13 years.

What would an Olaf update be without a musical reference?  Let's take a trip back to 70's disco-pop with Esther Phillips 😄

 

Edited November 11 by Olaf
added next steps list, and re-ordered

[Olaf 3341]

Date: 21 Nov 2024

Distance: 215468 kms

1. Replaced side repeaters

I noticed the amber side repeaters were significantly dulled.  22-odd years in the sunshine'll do that, particularly the UV down here.  I noticed these aftermarket TYR units at a particularly reasonable circa 5 euros each during a parts order from Spareto, so dropped them into my order. 

They took about 12 mins all up to install.  A quick wipe over with detailing mist, pop out, clean up, SRP, install.... figure out why they weren't working.  Oh, bulb carrier included, though not the bulb!  Uninstall, remove bulb holder, install bulb from original, re-attach, re-install, test okay.

Fig 1: At the start...

 

fig. 2:  Job's a good one.  Second time round, at least!

 

Of course, after that the left-hand was swift.  Not Suzuki.  Quick! 

FIg. 3: Left Hand, dulled by years of sun

 

Fig. 4: Removed, ready to retrieve bulb from bulb-holder

 

FIg. 5:  Left hand done, shining like a diamond in a goat's ass (as that feller from TX says).

Hint:  you don't need a screwdriver or spludger tool.  Just push horizonally toward the rear of the car, then then gently lever out the front edge (against the clip - see Fig. 4 above).  I did it without tools.  To disconnect from the vehicle wiring, press the lever on the connector.  To remove the bulb holder from the fitting, twist approx 30 degrees.

Right then, on to the next one.

[dln 15]

Excellent, thanks for the detail - mine just arrived and I was planning on attacking it with a trim tool!

[Olaf 3341]

Date: 29 Nov 2024

Distance: 215742 kms

1. Battery Replacement

I've had a headlamp bulb out.  A couple of times the vehicle has spazzed-out while running when I turned from sidelights to headlamps - dashboard-reset with a BeeeEEEp tone, clock resets, trip meter resets.  I thought it was about 7 years since I replaced it last?  With the help of @Autoglym we metered the batty during start - 11.3v.  

A new Koba batty was sourced.  The old AA3772 (720 CCA, 140 RC, 80 AH) was in fact 2013!  I recall when I last replaced the batty in 2013, the original date-marked 2002 BMW battery was in there.  So 11 years per batty - nice!  The Koba SE57510 was a case of 'nearest avalable' in-stock, 730CCA, RC 125 min, 75AH.  It's slightly shorter in height than the AA, so a couple of bits of rubber beneath the sole of the hold-down plate had it sorted.

 

Figures 1 & 2: A Koba batty, amidst the chaos of my sub-floor area, yesterday.  Yes it's true: I am a closet hi-vis vest wearer - at least when changing a tyre on the roadside, or photographing.

The previous AA install in 2013 was swings-and-roundabouts.  He'd used Permatex Battery Protector & Sealer, which foams up and dries in a purple colour - brilliant stuff - and all was clean and intact.  PS:  Does anyone still distribute this in NZ?  It seems to have gone unobtaneum.  Unfortunately he didn't reconnect the battery breather vent. 🤯  So the bottom of the battery compartment was a little crusty.  I vacuumed up any loose scale and gave it a couple of liberal coats of Brunox.  That'll slow it down until I can get in there and paint it.

Figure 3:  the artist formerly known as crusty, now tramsformed with Brunox.

 

Figure 3a: Brunox.  The gold standard in Europe, particularly loved by the folks on retrorides.

 

Figure 4:  battery breather vent now reconnected.

Car now starts more snappily. (8mm socket for the interior frame.  13mm for the hold-down.  #2 phillips screw for the clamp tension. 8mm for the battery clamps). Battery lifting by messrs tricep, bicep, & latismus dorsi.  Remixed by paracetamol and codine for us old geezers.

Next to order a couple of Xenon bulbs.  I didn't have bulbs in my spare headlamps.

Edited November 30 by Olaf
Permatex Battery Protector & Sealer, Brunox

[Olaf 3341]

carrying duties today, ferrying boxes.  still a great drive.

[Olaf 3341]

Date: 09 Dec 2024

Distance: 216,059 kms

1. Groundhog day.  Another left bulb

Got another telltale over the weekend that left rear bulb was out.  Brake light bulb had gone intermittant.  

P21W 32CP.

 

E46 Touring tail light cluster as Xmas lights

 

Meanwhile in the DHL van are my new headlamp mainbeam bulbs...

[balancerider 777]

On 11/30/2024 at 9:19 AM, Olaf said:

Date: 29 Nov 2024

Distance: 215742 kms

1. Battery Replacement

I've had a headlamp bulb out.  A couple of times the vehicle has spazzed-out while running when I turned from sidelights to headlamps - dashboard-reset with a BeeeEEEp tone, clock resets, trip meter resets.  I thought it was about 7 years since I replaced it last?  With the help of @Autoglym we metered the batty during start - 11.3v.  

A new Koba batty was sourced.  The old AA3772 (720 CCA, 140 RC, 80 AH) was in fact 2013!  I recall when I last replaced the batty in 2013, the original date-marked 2002 BMW battery was in there.  So 11 years per batty - nice!  The Koba SE57510 was a case of 'nearest avalable' in-stock, 730CCA, RC 125 min, 75AH.  It's slightly shorter in height than the AA, so a couple of bits of rubber beneath the sole of the hold-down plate had it sorted.

The previous AA install in 2013 was swings-and-roundabouts.  He'd used Permatex Battery Protector & Sealer, which foams up and dries in a purple colour - brilliant stuff - and all was clean and intact.  PS:  Does anyone still distribute this in NZ?  It seems to have gone unobtaneum.  Unfortunately he didn't reconnect the battery breather vent. 🤯  So the bottom of the battery compartment was a little crusty.  I vacuumed up any loose scale and gave it a couple of liberal coats of Brunox.  That'll slow it down until I can get in there and paint it.

 

 

 

 

Battery access looks better in the E46 than in my F31 (as my newly skinless knuckles can attest). 8.5 years for the original Varta 90aH AGM in mine, i thought that wasn't too bad given the increased parasitic drain in newer cars

[Olaf 3341]

@balancerider Matt I did need to remove a side panel (clip release), then two 8mm nuts to remove hard plastic trim frame (beneath boot floor).  Then it was a couple of 13mm bolts for the hold-down bracket, then remove the terminals, then lift out the battery.  Only a little worse than the old e60.

How's legroom for rear-seat passengers in the F31 mate?

[Olaf 3341]

Today I took the e46 for a run up to Begley Motor Worx, to get some maintenance done.  While I was there I harvested some sundry parts from the parts touring:

• Rear Speakers 
• Audio Amplifier Loom (Power, Interconnects, Speaker Cables)
• Battery Tray.

I'll be treating and painting the battery tray to replace the old crusty one (above).  The speakers and loom are a real bonus (more updates in the audio thread).

 

[balancerider 777]

On 12/9/2024 at 1:18 PM, Olaf said:

How's legroom for rear-seat passengers in the F31 mate?

Very infrequent that I have rear seat passengers, I suspect a little better than e91/e46 though.

there were 3 plastic panels + battery hold down to remove and nowhere for the terminals to go in the f31. I really like it as a do it all car though, a G21 m340i appeals although probably wouldn’t offer much over the f31 except apple carplay 

[Olaf 3341]

Date:  7 Dec 2024

Paint Prep - front 24mm ARB.  

So in prep for the next appointment at Begley Motor Worx, I'd sourced a replacement front ARB, PN# from Ray at Hell BMW (thanks Ray!).  I cleaned up the ends and bushing contact points with a flap disk, give it a quick coat of Raptor Etch, followed by some Primer Surfacer (yes, a belt and braces job).  I didn't bother with inter-coat sanding, protection is the name of the game.

Fig 1:  Colorpak Primer-Surfacer getting some late afternoon sun.

Then I hit it with the Rustoleum All-In-One Gloss Black.  A dusting coat, followed by a wet coat about 5 mins later.  40 mins later I gave it a second coat. 

Fig 2:  More blackness

 

Fig 3:  Blaaaaaaack.

I love this stuff, it makes me look like a good painter!

 

I left it to harden for a couple of days.  My old one was looking a bit crusty, I should've stripped and painted it back when I installed it in 2016.  It had gotten pitted, even though it was well-greased.  That's a hint for ya'll - check out your ARB bushing points for rust.

 

 

Edited December 16 by Olaf
date, format

[Olaf 3341]

Date: 10-15 Dec 2024

Distance: 216,280 kms

1. Remediation day.  

• Front ARB Replacement - installed the ARB from the post above.  Bushes were replaced recently.  
• Diff Replacement - including front differential bushes.  Fresh Penrite 75W90 Synthetic, new bungs.

What Diff'rence Does It Make?

 

• PSU Reservoir replacement.  Eliminating that annoying leak.  

  

New Power Steering Reservoir awaiting install. (Image: Jon Begley)

• Headlamps: Replaced both main beam bulbs D2S Xenon (headlight out).  Left hand had been intermittent - it seemed to dislike the thought of the outside world!

 

• Tailgate stops:  replaced tailgate stops to remedy leak into cargo area.  They're a sh*t to get to!

New Tailgate Bump Stop installed (Image: Jon Begley).  Guess it's time for a thorough clean around the hatch, then.

• Cooling System Low:  I'd had to put in about half a litre of coolant every 8 weeks or so.  Jon noticed evidence of coolant loss.  

Yechhh - that'll be coolant on the outside, then... (Image: Jon Begley).

• Traced to both hard lines beneath the intake manifold.  We'd replaced them in 2019/2020 with Rein items.  Very disappointing that they'd failed already.  Sourced new genuine BMW items from Continental Cars BMW Wellington.  It was 23 months since last coolant flush, so after pressure testing, new genuine BMW Blue coolant 1:1 per factory recommendation with deionised water.

Ready for new coolant pipes

• Oil Leaks:  removed belts, front covers, oil filter housing.  One thread had failed last time the job was done; this time the remaining three needed helicoil repair.  

Helicoil tools of trade

 

Jon shows the battlefield after helicoil action

 

• Oil Leaks Continued... New filter housing gasket.  On prepping for valve cover gasket set replacement (Elring 318.590 includes the grommets; I also bought new genuine BMW washers), Jon found that my valve cover was cracked.  It's becoming a common 'feature' of M54's at this age.  I was dispatched to Pick-A-Part to secure a suitable replacement.  

M54 Valve cover in the wild at Pick-A-Part

• Having located one, it took me 35 mins to successfully remove - not bad given I'm a geezer and out of practice.  

35 mins later...

• Hairline crack found in two of the apertures - it'll have to do for the next four or five months, guess I'll be sourcing a brand new one.  

Bugger.  Oh well, better than what was on my car... it's a temporary.

• Reinstallation.... Inlet manifold , covers, (the seals were still excellent, replaced when the starter motor was replaced recently), oil filter housing, alternator, belts, oil filter (Mann) and fresh Penrite HPR-5 5-40 Synthetic; Air Filter (Mann), Cabin Filter (Corteco) fitted.  Ran up to temp, checked levels and for leaks. Tested OK.
• Multi-function Steering Wheel:  more detail in a dedicated post below.

Next Steps

Now I'll prep the battery tray from the parts car, rust convert, etch, prime, and hit it with the gloss black Rustoleum all-in-one-paint.  During the xmas break I'll get the old battery tray removed from our wagon, prep, rust-treat, paint, and install the freshly-painted replacement.  

I also need to treat minor surface rust beneath the car.  I'll get it up on the rack, clean, then a couple of coats of Brunox, and then ColorPak Pro Series Rubberised Underseal.

Finding a replacement high pressure steering line is on the todo list, as mine is weeping.  

And I'll work on the stereo prep.  Get my 3D printer up and working, print some front speaker adaptor rings.  And get some cost-effective faux-Dynamat from Aliexpress, start prepping the load area.  

Never-ending story, taking care of an older BMW.  Still, even with just 190 bhp, the 325i touring is a fun drive.

I also need to look into rebuilding Bilstein B8s.  More on that soon.  

My thanks to Jon and Keren at Begley Motor Worx in Marton.  Great professional service!

Wouldn't be a big update without a punny musical reference, would it?

 

Edited December 18 by Olaf
formatting, images, more images, even more images!

[Vass 867]

Awesome stuff! Love your meticulous approach.

With the valve cover, haven't succumb to the impulse of buying one yet but have been contemplating one of these Mitzone aluminium replacement ones for a while. I'm bound to get one eventually, can't remember if eBay or Amazon worked out to be cheaper. Reviews and fitment seems to be decent, just need to make sure to give it a thorough clean before install. Probably cheaper than buying a brand new plastic one and should last a good while longer too.

With the PS pressure lines, you're probably better off taking it to a hydraulic shop and having them reseal it. Last I checked a brand new hose through the dealership was $545+GST and you'd be waiting on it a few weeks. Took my old one into Enzed and had it back the next day with brand new rubber installed onto the existing metal fittings. No issues nearly 2 years later.

[Olaf 3341]

thanks @Vass!  Hmm yes perhaps an Alu may do the trick.  I need the earlier one as mine's the bolt-in coil version.  I did find a nicer one on another car, got the cover off and then found it was the later one with clip-in coils, so left it in place.

Great idea re the PS pressure lines, thanks!  Yes I was rather put-off by the new cost.

[Olaf 3341]

Fig 1: Multifunction Sports Leather Steering Wheel P/N 32 34 2 282 022, before leather restoration

• Multi-function Steering Wheel:  As mentioned above, Jon also installed and retrofitted the Msport multi-function wheel I'd sourced back in 2019.  Part Number 32 34 2 282 022.
• It had sat around in the bubble-wrap awaiting a suitable confirmed post-recall airbag.
• After getting the parts car, I'd cleaned and dyed the leather, with a Colourlock Leather kit I've had for ages, fed it with Elephant Leather Preservative.
• I confirmed with BMW via the rego number of the parts car that this was a post Takata recall airbag.  So I sourced the BMW multifunction retrofit kit.  
• The option codes (for e46) are:  Option S249A Multifunction steering wheel, and option S255A Sports leather steering wheel.  This wheel was also optioned in e39, and standard on e46 M3 and e39 M5.

Where we started:  the original helm (with post-recall airbag)

• Jon did the retrofit.  Now, in addition to the super-comfortable wheel, we have steering wheel controls, and cruise control.  Superb.

prepping for surgery (Photo: Jon Begley)

 

spread wide - paint by numbers (photo: Jon Begley)

 

let's start reassembly (photo: Jon Begley)

 

For the first time (in my e46) - cruise control!  (that bright green indicator, bottom right).

Cruise is a real boon coming up to Christmas with a significant increase of visible (and mufti) road policing... Waze on the phone, dial in preferred speed (on the Waze speed indicator), set cruise control, sweat less when the radar detector alerts to the presence of RADAR or LIDAR.

 

Driver's seat view (parked)

I dig it.  Slightly smaller diameter, much better feel.  And of course, buttons!  Control the stereo, set the speed etc.  It was worth the effort and expense.  I particularly like the feel through the wheel turning into a tight corner; significant improvement over the old helm.

Edited December 18 by Olaf
P/N, more info, first photo. More photos, closing summary.

[Vass 867]

50 minutes ago, Olaf said:

Hmm yes perhaps an Alu may do the trick.  I need the earlier one as mine's the bolt-in coil version.

Yeah true, didn't realize which type you had until you uploaded the photos. They do a version with the bolt-in style coils too, which is slightly more expensive for some reason though - Amazon / eBay.

[Eagle 1678]

20 hours ago, Vass said:

Probably cheaper than buying a brand new plastic one and should last a good while longer too

OE ones seem to last 20+ years and were probably heat cycled far more often being a new car at one point,. To me the issue with the aftermarket metal ones is the usual quality control gamble. They are quite a new product so haven't really been time tested for any other faults that may surface either. They are on Aliexpress for way cheaper atm and at that sort of price you can take the gamble.

[Olaf 3341]

 My first choice for 11121432928  is to go with a decent OEM or proven aftermarket item.  - Perhaps a Vaico? The V20-2177 is ~EUR110.

On FCP one of the reviews indicates "The drawbacks of the original BMW valve cover and gasket are corrected here. The cam half-circles are extended on the valve cover and the gasket profile is different, better than it is on original."

Also "Comes with gaskets installed plus bolt grommets and cover stand-offs included."

and... "Initially I thought this part was off the OE tool without the BMW logo insert. After I took some time to inspect it, there were enough subtle differences to indicate the part did not come off the same tooling as the OE part. It is, however, a very good reproduction. Same mold tool runner locations, all geometry details captured, same material, similar tooling marks in the metal stamping. I don't buy cheap replacement parts for my car because I don't like doing a job twice. This is a solid replacement part."

sounds promising.

Edited December 17 by Olaf