Quick Questions

[Gaz 1061]

Gearbox question - Are there any differences between the two versions of Getrag 420G that came in the e36 and e46 m3? Strength, ratios?? Or are they all the same? Wikipedia seems to think so.

I am looking at doing a manual conversion with future proofing in mind

[euroriffic 609]

Heard the 5 speeds are stronger than the 6's in the e36 so would go for a 5 if your going down the turbo route

[Gaz 1061]

It's not the strength I'm after, looking for an OEM setup. Maybe I'll just wait until the right gearbox comes up for sale.

[euroriffic 609]

I'm confused???

[Matth5 471]

Thanks for the answers from my questions not long ago. Had it in for a service at Bellars Motor Works since they were the most convenient for location.

Diagnoses was actually a leaking thermostat but I was told the water pump had excessive play in the bearing.

Thermostat, WP, upper hose and expansion cap replaced for $710 all up.

Left the other stuff for now as the shop said I should deal with this first.

Got a leak through drivers door for ages and finally figured where it's leaking through, not the door seal but the door itself, vapour barrier must have a leak.

Do you guys use fuel injector cleaners at all? The ones that you put in your fuel tank. On US forums some say it's good to do at the same interval as oil changes but wondering if the same applies here since our fuel is a bit different?

If so, whats good for BMWs and where can I get it?

Edited September 14, 2014 by Matth5

[///MPROVD 131]

Quick question about which oil to put in my e36 m3 3l it has done very high kms and need a thicker oil to keep it quite ive previous used penrite 5w40 and car is almost due for its 10k kms service.

I thought I knew oils but im now lost in it all, grades etc

Any help would be much appreciated

[euroriffic 609]

I run castrol 10w60 in my 3.2l as it needs the thinker viscosity for vanos to operate correctly

[KwS 2425]

im using Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 in my 3L with no ill effects. Makes great power, vanos is working well, no abnormal noises, and no noticeable oil consumption.

A lot of others, especially in the UK, run 5W-40 in their 3Ls too.

I do warn you though, asking this question is a HUGE can of worms as everyone and their dogs dog has an opinion.

Edited September 14, 2014 by KwS

[///MPROVD 131]

Right im having some idle inconsistencies so hopefully 10w60 will fix it cheers man

Yes I understand the worms haha ive been using 5w40 and I rebuilt vanos at the same time so these idle problems are either of the two buy oil is much cheaper ans its due for a change so yeah ill be trying that first

Edited September 15, 2014 by ibboostn

[Kepes 231]

Thanks for the answers from my questions not long ago. Had it in for a service at Bellars Motor Works since they were the most convenient for location.

Diagnoses was actually a leaking thermostat but I was told the water pump had excessive play in the bearing.

Thermostat, WP, upper hose and expansion cap replaced for $710 all up.

Left the other stuff for now as the shop said I should deal with this first.

Got a leak through drivers door for ages and finally figured where it's leaking through, not the door seal but the door itself, vapour barrier must have a leak.

Do you guys use fuel injector cleaners at all? The ones that you put in your fuel tank. On US forums some say it's good to do at the same interval as oil changes but wondering if the same applies here since our fuel is a bit different?

If so, whats good for BMWs and where can I get it?

I can't answer your other questions, but I can tell you about my experiences with fuel injector/system cleaner

I bought Red Line SI-1 fuel system cleaner. It is considered to be the best fuel system cleaner that is relatively cheap, easily available (In the US), and has the highest amount of polyether amines (PEA) for the price. This is a critical ingredientfor fuel system cleaning. I did quite a bit of research before committing to it. The changes were very minor. The car felt a tiny little bit more responsive, and that was about it. No miracle stories like some people talk about on amazon. I can't say anything bad about it though, I just expected more from it in a 27y/o car that - judging by the condition of some of the filters - wasn't very well maintained before me and probably never had a fuel system cleaner used. Maybe our fuels are of a higher quality than those overseas. I'm not sure

Anyway, if you're going to do it, go with redline. $20 for a bottle (treats 1 tank) from BNT.

Good luck !

[Matth5 471]

I can't answer your other questions, but I can tell you about my experiences with fuel injector/system cleaner

I bought Red Line SI-1 fuel system cleaner. It is considered to be the best fuel system cleaner that is relatively cheap, easily available (In the US), and has the highest amount of polyether amines (PEA) for the price. This is a critical ingredientfor fuel system cleaning. I did quite a bit of research before committing to it. The changes were very minor. The car felt a tiny little bit more responsive, and that was about it. No miracle stories like some people talk about on amazon. I can't say anything bad about it though, I just expected more from it in a 27y/o car that - judging by the condition of some of the filters - wasn't very well maintained before me and probably never had a fuel system cleaner used. Maybe our fuels are of a higher quality than those overseas. I'm not sure

Anyway, if you're going to do it, go with redline. $20 for a bottle (treats 1 tank) from BNT.

Good luck !

Thanks for that

Couldn't find Redline anywhere. BNT only supply trade?

Wondering of one of the other brands at Supercheap/Repco are ok.

I've read some websites/forums saying it's not necessary when using premium petrol as they contain additives that keep injectors clean but I imagine they're not as effective.

I don't expect any improvement, car runs very well as it is, just figured it might be good maintenance.

Edited September 17, 2014 by Matth5

[polley 916]

Bent supply public

[Kepes 231]

Thanks for that

Couldn't find Redline anywhere. BNT only supply trade?

Wondering of one of the other brands at Supercheap/Repco are ok.

I've read some websites/forums saying it's not necessary when using premium petrol as they contain additives that keep injectors clean but I imagine they're not as effective.

I don't expect any improvement, car runs very well as it is, just figured it might be good maintenance.

Only place I've found redline is BNT, and that's where I got mine (as well as some other redline oils). I'm no tradey either! haha. It's cheaper for a trade account, but they definitely do public too. At least the one in Wellington does.

Or you could get it from trade me http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/oil-additives/auction-779568757.htm

You're right, it definitely can't hurt! I'd say it's good maintenance, and it's not very expensive at all. Go for it

Edited September 17, 2014 by Kepes

[Matth5 471]

Only place I've found redline is BNT, and that's where I got mine (as well as some other redline oils). I'm no tradey either! haha. It's cheaper for a trade account, but they definitely do public too. At least the one in Wellington does.

Or you could get it from trade me http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/oil-additives/auction-779568757.htm

You're right, it definitely can't hurt! I'd say it's good maintenance, and it's not very expensive at all. Go for it

Ah cool, bought one from Trademe. From another seller though as his price was the same but $3 cheaper for shipping:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=779180075

Will save it for when I'm closer to doing my oil change, probably in a couple months. Already got my new oil and filter.

Edited September 17, 2014 by Matth5

[kiwi535 538]

 

Ah cool, bought one from Trademe. From another seller though as his price was the same but $3 cheaper for shipping:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=779180075

 

Will save it for when I'm closer to doing my oil change, probably in a couple months. Already got my new oil and filter.

Yes if you use a fuel system cleaner do it the tank before an oil change,then any residue is gone with the old oil

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Anyone have any ideas on removing the crank bolt from a bare M50 long block? I see the factory torque spec is 330 ft/lb block is loose on the floor so can't use engine mounts to hold it in place. No rattle gun either Have got a length of pipe to extend my breaker bar, just stumped with securing the block in one place.

Ta!

[yng_750 247]

Chuck a piece of wood in between the crank and the block. Then position bar so its pushing towards the floor. Has worked for me in the past on various engines

[handgrenade 189]

hey everyone, I want to mount my rear camera and don't want to damage the paint, what sort of double sided tape should I use? Or should I use some sort of mechanical fastening (seems a lot of hassle, and the camera is tiny and light).

Thanks!

[handgrenade 189]

Can you drill a hole in your license plate and mount it to that?

would be much easier if I had a euro plate, the standard nz plates dont have much extra room on there (without obscuring numbers etc).

The boot lid also is a much nicer flat mounting surface .. at the moment i just have some electrical tape and it looks like a hack job. i have some seriously strong aircraft grade carpet tape on my desk .. I could use that, but would have to stick it to the plate and not paint .....

would ordinary doublesided tape ruin paint? I suppose its not too much of a big deal, the position of the camera is to the side of the plate right now, so if the paint does get ruined, I can just get a euro plate and that would cover it up. still .. might as wlel do it right.

[Matth5 471]

hey everyone, I want to mount my rear camera and don't want to damage the paint, what sort of double sided tape should I use? Or should I use some sort of mechanical fastening (seems a lot of hassle, and the camera is tiny and light).

Thanks!

Body moulding tape could work?

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Clingtape-Body-Moulding-Tape-12mm-x-4m.aspx?pid=299060#Cross

When removing something from your car that's attached with double sides tape you can use floss or cotton to remove it safely. Then you can clean off the remnants with some meths or something.

Edited October 7, 2014 by Matth5

[louistan3 1]

Can anybody point me as to what could be the problem is when my car wont crank?

Power is there as radio and head lights work.

Tried jump starting and using another battery and still no go.

Turn the key and nothing happens. I can hear a click when its put on the "on" but turning to "start" doesn't do anything.

Is this a starter issue? Just happened suddenly and had to tow the car..

Could it be just a short?

Thanks

[euroriffic 609]

Sounds like a starter motor issue. Give it a hit with a hammer or something and try again.

[yng_750 247]

If the dash/interior lights dim then theres not enough power to engage starter. If they dont dim its not engaging. Likely an issue with the starter itself. But could be switch etc

[louistan3 1]

What do you mean hitting it with a hammer? Literally just smack it?

And no the lights dont dim at all. Il try the hammer trick and see what happens

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[euroriffic 609]

Yup, hit with hammer. Sometimes solenoid gets stuck or a dead patch on the brushes so won't move, had to do it on my ute for a while untill I pulled it out and cleaned it up