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Rear main seal is a small rubber seal behind the flywheel. It is known to leak sometimes, and is so cheap and easy to replace you'd be mad not to.

Also called a rear crank seal.

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Windscreen trim strips for the E30 and E28...

The windscreen rubber has an insert, normally chrome. So does the E28.

Does anyone know if the profile of the insert is the same? Part numbers don't help as the parts appear to be supplied cut to size and shape, and that would mean they are different between models. I'm looking at buying the trim on a roll.

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Can I get the rear brake disc backplates off an E46 325i without completely dismantling the entire arm?

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Sadly no.

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17 minutes ago, zero said:

Sadly no.

Damn.
I looked a them earlier, sucked my teeth a bit, reminded myself it was Boxing Day and found something simpler to do. ;)

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1 hour ago, gjm said:

Damn.
I looked a them earlier, sucked my teeth a bit, reminded myself it was Boxing Day and found something simpler to do. ;)

Yea, I'd love to remove the backing plates on my project car, but I'm scared it would fail wof or cert.

No one seems to know.

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4 hours ago, zero said:

Yea, I'd love to remove the backing plates on my project car, but I'm scared it would fail wof or cert.

No one seems to know.

Reason for WoF failure (according to NZTA In-service WoF regulations, 8.1.19):

A brake backing plate is:
a) insecure, or
B) severely corroded, or
c) deformed from its original shape, or
d) cracked, or
e) contaminated by brake fluid, oil or grease.

But that doesn't say a backing plate needs to be fitted, and in some cases will actually refer to the backing plates in a drum brake setup.

Thinking about what they do... The plates could help keep radiated heat away from your tender ball joint boots and (in a few cases) may help direct cooling air where it's needed on the disk. That said, heat will likely only be an issue if you cook your brakes, then immediately come to a complete stop and don't drive away. And most backing plates won't do anything to guide air sensibly (without some sort of ducting also being in place).

The only real benefit I can see is that they help keep your suspension clean(er) of brake dust.
I know a lot of racers don't use them.

For further thought - have you ever seen a motorbike with a brake backing disc? I suppose there may have been one or two, but I suspect 99%+ of bikes don't have them.

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On 11/22/2016 at 4:00 PM, gjm said:

Windscreen trim strips for the E30 and E28...

The windscreen rubber has an insert, normally chrome. So does the E28.

Does anyone know if the profile of the insert is the same? Part numbers don't help as the parts appear to be supplied cut to size and shape, and that would mean they are different between models. I'm looking at buying the trim on a roll.

I'll upload a picture of my brand new trim later

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53 minutes ago, eliongater said:

That's the one I'm looking at. Much cheaper than anything I've found elsewhere... But only good if it fits! ;)

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22 minutes ago, gjm said:

That's the one I'm looking at. Much cheaper than anything I've found elsewhere... But only good if it fits! ;)

I can crack out the calipers if you'd like?

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2 minutes ago, eliongater said:

I can crack out the calipers if you'd like?

If you could, that'd be great. A rough idea of the profile, and sizes would be wonderful. 

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48 minutes ago, gjm said:

If you could, that'd be great. A rough idea of the profile, and sizes would be wonderful. 

IMG_1615 - Copy.JPG

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Just now, eliongater said:

 

 

Sans measurements

IMG_1615 - Copy (2).JPG

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The tongue that drops down on the right side looks different to the E30, but other than it could be the same.

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19 hours ago, gjm said:

The tongue that drops down on the right side looks different to the E30, but other than it could be the same.

Have you looked local? http://www.basisnz.co.nz/ has a whole range of trims. Around $8 a metre so not terribly priced.

This looks like the right one for rear windscreen to me? http://www.basisnz.co.nz/Products/Window-rubber-seals/Filler-strip/FILLER-STRIP-(217-009)

Edit: Just noticed that particular one is very expensive compared to others they stock :(

 

Edited by huff3r

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9 minutes ago, huff3r said:

Have you looked local? http://www.basisnz.co.nz/ has a whole range of trims. Around $8 a metre so not terribly priced.

This looks like the right one for rear windscreen to me? http://www.basisnz.co.nz/Products/Window-rubber-seals/Filler-strip/FILLER-STRIP-(217-009)

Edit: Just noticed that particular one is very expensive compared to others they stock :(

 

I've never heard of them!
I'll take a look.

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Getrag 260 (/5?) not going into 5th. Shifter isn't binding, it just won't go fully in, partially engages synchros but not enough to catch

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1 hour ago, eliongater said:

Getrag 260 (/5?) not going into 5th. Shifter isn't binding, it just won't go fully in, partially engages synchros but not enough to catch

Does the gearshift return correctly to a neutral position, or does it tend to sit between the 3-4 gate and the 5th gear gate?

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Just now, gjm said:

Does the gearshift return correctly to a neutral position, or does it tend to sit between the 3-4 gate and the 5th gear gate?

Pretty sure it's in the normal place but I'll check tomorrow. Thanks

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33 minutes ago, eliongater said:

Looks pretty normal to me?

How does it feel? There should be a little pressure needed to get across to the 1-2 gate, and a lot (obviously) to get into reverse. Similarly, getting to the 5th gear gate should require a little effort, and the gear lever shouldn't 'flop' between the 3-4 gate and the 5th gear gate.

I think there is a locking pin and a bush (check p/n 23311228392) which when worn, can cause the problem you describe. It is normally associated with other symptoms, too.

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Just now, gjm said:

How does it feel? There should be a little pressure needed to get across to the 1-2 gate, and a lot (obviously) to get into reverse. Similarly, getting to the 5th gear gate should require a little effort, and the gear lever shouldn't 'flop' between the 3-4 gate and the 5th gear gate.

I think there is a locking pin and a bush (check p/n 23311228392) which when worn, can cause the problem you describe. It is normally associated with other symptoms, too.

 

It's pretty sloppy in neutral between 1-2 and 3-4, going into reverse takes effort and feels normal for a BMW, going into 5th takes a bit of effort and starts going in but stops engaging once the synchros are just touching (enough for lots of noise and minimal movement of the wheels)

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Doesn't sound like quite the same problem.

Give Kayne Barrie a call - 027 497 5330. I have a very superficial knowledge of Getrag 'boxes - he's rebuilt more of them than he'd care to remember.

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Just now, gjm said:

Doesn't sound like quite the same problem.

Give Kayne Barrie a call - 027 497 5330. I have a very superficial knowledge of Getrag 'boxes - he's rebuilt more of them than he'd care to remember.

 

Cheers. I might see if he has spare box as well, cause having a 4 speed sucks

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