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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/31/17 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Had some minor clunkyness coming from the front end. New Lemforder control arms and tie rod ends installed this weekend. Seems to have solved the problem, feels much fresher too.
  2. 2 points
    @Gabe79Here's my experience.... In May/June last year I was on the look out for an E39 Motorsport. After driving a 1998 528i that I had purchased from my father after he purchased a 2000 540i Motorsport for himself... I wanted more! I was struggling to decide between the 530i and 540i. 540i Pros: More power/torque, V8 wank factor/fanboy Cons: Costly timing guide issues, uses more fuel, higher maintenance costs in general 530i Pros: Smaller engine/alloy sub frame = less weight over the front end for better handling, nicer steering, better fuel mileage, cheaper to maintain. Cons: Less power, a bit sluggish off the mark. I decided to go for a 530i I kept a close eye waiting for the right car to come up. Suddenly a 2002 540i in Silver popped up with 199kms (don't expect to find these in low kms unless you want to pay a lot) After looking at it, driving it and finding a few unmentioned issues... i thought f**k it, i'll just buy a 540i. Got it home and spent a whole day cleaning it and made a list of things that required attention. Issues: -Both front seats had the issue of twisting when adjusting certain ways - i fixed this myself at no cost, google/youtube is your friend. This was an issue for 2001- 2003 E39s -Spare key had a flat battery - replaced battery and reset both keys following a sequence - google/youtube -Minor interior issues - all fixed using new parts or parts from wrecking yards -My 540i had the auto dimming wing mirror lenses, they fail and bleed liquid, very expensive to replace - ended up fitting the normal blue lenses. -Kidney grilles are loose and don't sit flush to the bonnet - yet to replace. I have kept a document of service history.. July 30th 2016 – 205,654kms -Valve covers pulled, stripped, painted, new gaskets/bolt grommets fitted. -Replaced positive jumper terminal casing on valve cover -Fuel filter replaced -Air filter replaced -Oil filter replaced -Timing chain tensioner replaced -Spark plugs replaced -Engine oil/filter changed – Total 9000 10w-40 -Differential fluid changed, new crush washers used. -New front rotors, front pads and rear pads. Bled system with new fluid. Labour performed by myself. August 23rd 2016 – 207,342kms -Windshield replaced by NOVUS under insurance. August 26th 2016 - 207,521kms -4 New Tyres 2x 235/45/17 2x 255/45/17 -Wheel alignment. Labour performed by The Bling Company, Te Rapa, Hamilton. September 15th 2016 – 210,744kms -CEL – Misfire on cylinder 5, Coil pack on Cylinder 5 failed. -Replaced with new unit, cleared error code. Item purchased from Repco. Labour performed by myself. November 27th 2016 – 215,126kms -CEL and a small ticking noise, I killed the engine straight away. CEL = Intake cam over advance. Removing lower oil pan revealed small pieces of timing chain guide had started to break away. – Common issue with M62TUB44 engine. Researched repair procedures, decided to replace other items, gaskets, seals, water pump, thermostat, coolant hoses/pipes, oil separators, all intake seals, tensioners, pulleys, belts, vacuum hose etc whilst everything was apart as well as rebuilt both VANOS units using the Besian procedure. Labour performed by myself January 16th 2017 - 218,XXXkms CEL- Oxygen sensor bank 2 - cleared the code - hasn't come back. So... A few tips for the timing guide procedure if you were to ever head down that road.... -Research, I spent about two weeks doing researching everything single little thing - I was lucky to have another car to drive. -Spend time confirming part numbers and making lists of the parts you need and tipple checking. www.realoem.com is good for this -I highly recommend replacing other items whilst you're in that deep. -You definitely require the special timing tool kit for the M62. I managed to rent a kit. -I bought the crankshaft holder tool and the Vanos press tool. Other tools, torx and e-torx sockets, seal picks and a left hand torque wrench -Take your time and label/bag up all items. Have a clean working surface when doing the Vanos rebuild. -Thourolghy inspect and clean oil pick up as you will find tiny bits of chain guid -Have a laptop out in the shed for easy access to forums/help -Be very careful removing plastic parts as they can be brittle - replace if you think it needs replacing -Take special care installing alternator with new seal as I pinched mine which caused a small coolant leak. $65 from the dealer instead of $14 from Pelican for the same part.... -Buy a cheap scan tool cable that plugs into a laptop - they work well just for pulling codes and clearing them. -Once you have completed the job successfully. I recommend changing the oil and filter within a few hundred kms just in case any debris/tiny bits of chain guide were still in the engine. In conclusion: It's a massive job, I reckon I spent about 50 hours doing this - a lot of pissing around triple checking, cleaning, torquing etc. There's a lot of info on the internet about all this, as well as some good youtube videos. You can do this job quite a bit cheaper if you only want to replace the timing chain associated items. I'm a fussy prick though and will be keeping my 540i for as long as I can. I f**king love it. She's done 221kms now and still running perfectly. Doing the Vanos rebuild was well worth the time, no more vanos rattle and a noticeable increase in torque down low. Wreckers/Pick a part can be great for replacing those pesky interior items. I have learn't a a lot, spent a lot of money but had some good fun. I am about to do the exact same procedure on my fathers 540i just for peace of mind. Happy to rent out my vanos press tool and crankshaft holding tool for a small amount. Fee free to PM me if you have any questions. Could also scan and send my invoices of parts/cost if you really wanted.
  3. 2 points
    Precedent sets the intended meaning, ass covering doesn't. Alicia, i wreck all these earlier models, also fit new and used parts for customers when needed, however if by qualified you are looking for a piece of paper with my name on it then no i am not. my driveway of mine and customers cars might indicate otherwise though. Im happy to take a look, i am in Woburn so the closest person to you that has plenty of experience with your model, i only work on these older models. I would recommend not driving it at all at this stage, perhaps could come to you tomorrow if that works for you and at least see where we stand. i am working on a customers car this afternoon, have another one arriving tomorrow afternoon, but any time tomorrow would be fine. If it requires a professional i.e. head gasket failure which is above what i would do on a customers car, i can point you in the right direction, most of the time its something fairly simple on these cars
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Bought one. Thanks
  6. 1 point
    I would suggest using a branded full synthetic 5w30 meeting the required spec. We use ELF Evolution 900 FTX 5w30 API:SN/CF,ILSAC:GF5 I would also suggest checking the coolant and only use genuine coolant. 3 X 1.5 litre bottles. There is also a special venting (bleeding) proceedure
  7. 1 point
    Haha, yeah, I had a lot of fun showing my wife some 7-series last night. I need to barrage her with some gold car ads and then I might be able to get a sensible idea on black. On car model year, I go my what the vin decoder says, actually. I get carjam on the plates, grab the VIN from there and then look up what model year and build year it is from the decoder. I just test-drove a really nice 2001 530i msport. Trying to talk myself out of it, actually. I might have this car by the end of the week.
  8. 1 point
    It's like when you wash your car - you do it with a bare hand, so you can feel any bit of grit or tar spots etc. any remove them, before doing an damage. Well... that's what I think about, when I give our car it's annual wash, with a sponge
  9. 1 point
    No way I am skilled (or have the space) for this job. I can easily bring stuff from the US though... I am less keen to drop the money on this if it's something that can be replaced if/when it breaks for me. Seems like it's one of these things where you drive till it pops, then you stop and get it towed/fixed. I'd basically keep the money in the bank until it happens. Then it becomes a risk more in terms of timing than cost really, but any car we get with this in mind will be a 2nd car and not something I'd fuss over being out of action for a week or two or three even.
  10. 1 point
    Have a google I found several UK threads concerning the vvt set up getting oil in to the cam sensors and coursing some weird goings on
  11. 1 point
    Took a picture opportunity with this gem
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Customer dropped into work in his E46 M3 CSL..... oh my; first time seeing one in person, they are a cool car. This one obviously sees some hard work, wheels caked in brake dust, lowered with stoptech big brakes, harnesses and a big extinguisher on the floor. No photos because privacy and all that.
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