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I don't think he's including the motor or auto. Just the parts to make it a bolt in or near bolt in swap. I.E. The hard part. Looking at the design of the trans mount would be a doddle to convert for another box.

Finally! A whole page devoted to NOT discussing the subject of the OP. So much win!

Tuning cut short. Got the basic tune tune sorted ie the drive ability but once I started to do some wot runs I started to get different afr on back to back runs. I need to check the pressure but I starting drink instead.

Auto for my road car. Manual for my race car. Stuff sitting in traffic with a manual. Rather have an Auto for towing my racecar too. Cruise control. Steer. Only other thing to worry about is the wankers around you.

Well sorry guys. Bit of Ring failure didn't let us start. Is a real shame as we had some serious pace. Bit from James. To finish first, first you must finish. We started the weekend showing great potential in what the car could be capable of, the only problem was that the #1 cylinder kept dropping 10psi after every session, by this morning it was down to 150psi, much below the other 5. The drop in compression wasn't slowing us, it was the fact it was pumping the oil into the catch can and overflowing due to blow by. We decided to call it quits while the motor is still in running condition and rebuild it before the Hampton Downs round. With a bit of luck all that will be needed are some new rings and gaskets. A big thanks to Kayne Barrie, your advise was invaluable and its only because of you I now have a fully functional braking system, let's hope you are doing the Hampton Downs round so we can use it against you when we have a fully functional motor A big thanks to our sponsors Bimmersport.co.nz for the cool livery, we got heaps of comments about how good the car looked. A big thanks to Gull Motorsport, sure we didn't finish, but damn the car was pulling hard on Force 10, I would have never have thought the E30 would be able to out drag a Porsche GT3 before. Lastly a little blurb to let it all out. I am pretty gutted that cylinder 1 has decided to have issues, we were flying in the night session with old semi slicks, passing pretty much everything with ease, I even out dragged a few Porsche GT3's before passing a Juno round the outside at turn 1 (at 210km/h) in the dark. The next morning Kayne helped us sort the brake bias and then we fitted new michelin slicks, damn, without even doing a flying lap I managed to do a 1:14 flat, it was only when I came over the hill to do my flying lap's that I got the "oh sh*t this car has a lot of grip" moment when I managed to swerve around 2 cars coming over the hill without lifting at all from the hairpin onwards. The car would have done 12's easy and the fact we only had to pit once (others are 3-5 times) for fuel meant that we were effectively doing 2 seconds faster per lap relative to the other cars (a 1:10 effectively). I can't wait to see how the car goes at Hampton! And a little vid from our Night qualifier. Damn Porches and E92 M3's getting in the way Pretty much what you see in the Vid is what I could see. That Green light along the back straight was bloody annoying. Stupid Train signal!

Part Zwei. The CRC worked a treat, all the bolts in the oil pump cover came out OK. The cover its self was a real sh*t to get off but some persistence and brute force popped it off. Insides were a bit black but no chunks or sludge. Gave it a wipe down and replaced the seals. Yeah boi, i own a Rolls. Vanos unit all back together Next up was the solenoids. I had done a lot of research on how best to approach this, and the E39 M5 boys have some pretty good info about it (same solenoids). I decided it was best to replace the seals, remove the gauze ring and clean the solenoids. The gauze ring is the brown bit you can see in some of the photos of the solenoids. Its a plastic ring with some gauze filled slots. My gauze rings were fooked. No gauze was missing in places, and the rest was blocked. Used a scalpel to lever it off slightly, and then some pliers to break them and pull them off. I then turned my attention to the cleaning of the innards. Obviously i cant disassemble them, so had to find another way. The best way people tend to use is to flush them with brake clean whilst actuating them. I went with this method. Out came the 9V battery and connector. The solenoid leads are moulded with the polarity on the connector, so just join + to + and - to - and hopefully you should hear the solenoid click. I didnt. It turns out the top solenoid was dead. Nothing at all. A began to flush it by blasting brake clean into the ports, and after a few tries i finally get a faint click from it. Yay! I spray and actuate a few more dozen times until im getting a nice, solid, hearty click every time and then move on to the next one. The lower solenoid wasnt as bad, it clicked first try but was very faint. A thorough cleaning fixed that, although some of the sh*t that came out was pretty nasty. Replaced the seals on both, and put them aside. Replaced the vanos filter. Old one was black and you can see blockage in the gauze. Its cheap and easy to get at so ill replace this again in a thousand km or so. Since the vanos unit was done, i moved onto the anti-rattle kit. You need to replace the splined, helical gear from the intake cam. It wasnt easy, mine was reluctant to move forward enough to pop out until i game it some help. I also noticed it was hard to get into the Beisan tool so i gave the spline a real good scrub and it moves much freer now. Once removed the cause of the rattles was WELL obvious. There should be no axial play (wiggle)..... mine had a ton of movement. Loose as a goose. Pulled it apart with my Supercheap li-ion rattle gun, worked a treat. The innards were dirty, with chunks of something inside it and noticable wear on the end washers. The Beisan kit replaces the outer ring and both end washers. All fitted up with the discarded bits in the background Back in the engine. Pile of spare parts And this is where im at now. The vanos unit is back on, just waiting on the bolts to completely finish the vanos and then i need to reassemble the valve cover and cooling system. Now for the waiting game.

Would like to see what sort of buyers this would attract.

Buy julians 540+sc kit

Right, back with some more Vanos fun! So, the other day, stuck bolt came out. This finally meant i could remove the vanos unit and begin the rebuild. DISCLAIMER: THIS IS MY EXPERIENCES WITH THIS. THIS IS NOT A STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTION, IT IS MEANT TO COMPLIMENT THE BEISAN INSTRUCTIONS TO FILL THE GAPS AND HIGHLIGHT DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE 3.2 AND 3.0. PLEASE FOLLOW AT YOUR OWN RISK. First step was to clean up as i left a lot of my destructive tools lying around. Next up was to begin the removal. First you need to remove all the bolts from the front of the vanos unit (two already destroyed and removed), 6 short, 1 long for 7 in total (not the 9 Beisan says). Once this is done, remove the 4 bolts across the vanos bridge, and remove the bridge. Note, all 4 bolts are the same length (not 2 short 2 long like Beisan says) Proceed to carefully slide vanos unit forward a little. Beware of the oil pump driver which is a disk that goes between the vanos unit and the exhaust cam. If dropped, this will take a swift trip to the bottom of the oil pan. Beisan has no picture to show what you are looking for with the driver, so i took a few. The driver is a disk that sits here. Looks like this When removing the vanos unit, my piston got stuck to the shaft that sticks out of the intake cam. I had to use my tack lifter to gently lever it off the helical gear. There is a wee notch in the top of the gear above where the piston is stuck that i found to give just enough room to lever from. Removed! Minor marking from bolt removal Remove piston (push out with finger) Eww gunky. Pull the intake cylinder apart Bag of seals Once removed, ALL parts get a thorough cleaning in a mixture of brake clean and degreaser. The vanos bridge and bolts came up mint. This is another part Beisan was clear about. When you replace the seal on the cylinder and you are refitting to the bore, DO NOT PUSH THE CYLINDER IN. Let is rest, and then use the cover to push it in with the tightening of the screws. If you push the cylinder in you WILL ruin the seal. Rest it like this Put on cover (aligning the indent in the side with the vanos filter next to it). Make sure you remove the oring on the cover as per instructions, first. And slowly wind the screws in, bit by bit and doing them in a star pattern until the cover is seated completely. Remove cover and cylinder should looks like this, Nicely seated. Clean the cylinder cover and renew the seals on that too Another thing Beisan missed is that the cylinder cover has a dowel to align it, and MUST be aligned correctly. Thats that side done. Next up is to remove the oil pump cover. My bolts were really tight, so i soaked in CRC (penetrating oil), cracked then, wound out 3 turns and then put more oil on them and left to soak. Rest time. Will resume after a drink.

What about all those Chassis bits you can buy from Turner Motorsport? Ie like: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1361-e36-3-series-complete-turner-motorsport-reinforcement-package.aspx

Jeez Eddie ya don't muck about. Top work.

I recall another E36 coupe with the 1UZ on Tardme 12 (?) months ago, seller was asking around 12k from memory. Certified (as is yours) but I don't know if it ever sold. It was a fairly basic conversion, don't recall if it was manual or auto, cloth interior etc. I suspect most of us on here would think 10-13k a reasonable sum given the tiptronic auto, LSD, M3 running gear etc enhancements you've made but I reckon you'll end up with a bunch of offers from backwards cap wearing tards wanting to make a deal with 6 large and some crapped out POS turbo with mean chromies and uncerted coilovers. Unfortunately with a car like this you'll never come close to realising the build cost, but I think 12k would probably sell it. Good luck, looking forward to discovering what's next in the pipeline!

it runs :beer:

If you want to play with a clutch by an old 3 series. B5 is an Autobahn Stormer. Drving around in an E55 AMG with the big supercharger there is no way you could have a manual and be able to drive it in a manor that is A: Respectable B: Not going backwards through peoples houses towing their fence and pets with you. I can imagine the B5 would be very similar.

You might want to post some photos.... Heck, after 5 months, even a sketch.