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Thought it was so the bucket of KFC wouldn't fall off its precarious perch in the dash of the Toyota Enima / Nissan Elgrand / Honda Odessy, spilling the over sized Pepsi Max into the lap of the marine mammal wedged between the steering wheel and the tail gate, whose trying to text while choking on a chicken wing.......

Had a look at it over lunch. Not perfect but close. PM your email for the model. Will do an external mold next.

Your talking to the wrong engineers or paying in the wrong currency. Guys at my work have worked 5+ hours on a weekend for a box of piss. If someone wants me to replicate a couple i'd be keen. (i'm not here to make money, although the beer fridge is quite empty) I've got access to cad software, profile cutters work across the road from my work, i've got a folder at work that will be fine with 3mm stainless and can weld it as well.

Sorry but that makes no sense. The yard can't assess how much it'll cost to have it repaired .. the assessor doesn't know how much it will cost to be repaired. The only person that can do that is a panel beater estimator (who will usually need to get quotes for genuine parts so it won't be straight away) - they then submit this to the assessor who then look at the car and cross check the estimate and say yes that's reasonable or no that's not so we are going to let someone else look at it. It makes zero sense for it sitting at a yard or a shed waiting for the assessor. Something doesn't add up. I have NEVER had an insurance company tell me to leave a car at a yard (or home for that matter) waiting for the assessor to come look at it. It is always asked to be sent to someone that can properly assess the cost of damage and repair.

see what happens when you have no god!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

had this sitting around for years (came from a e34 525i I stripped many years back) the smaller type mtec 2 sterring wheel was suede , but had gone all sticking and shiney etc so had it redone in blackleather first auto auto trim in Tauranga did a great job will be swapping out the sleightly bigger one in my e28 M535i for this one and fitting that one into my e24 635csi

Need to tweak some settings, but there you go.

i'm alive everyone you can all relax.

People who travel at 90kms along the highway when you have no oportunity to overtake them then speed up to 105kms on the passing lane. OMG. come on people.

The human body. Mine is failing me. My hip is stuffed, my back is stuffed and my noes hair is growing at an exponential rate whilst the hair on my head is starting to thin. And I am only 33. Also. Auckland house prices. I am not sure I can afford to buy my own house of my EX wife as it had doubled in value in the last 5 years... and if I can't I can not afford to buy another house... and rent is crazy! I have always liked Tauranga.

Now I'm not one to spread rumors but have you herd, The new toyota Hilux is powered by a 4L twin turbo .............wait for it. BMW diesel. Can anyone shed some light on this.

Didn't Wellington just get it's wing wond back after being struck by lighting cost some $$$$$ price to. For myself this bad weather had just highlighted again the short comings of the roading system in this area.

what they do is send out pics etc to a list of panel beaters and part suppliers to tender on it and wait to get quotes back from them most don't bother unless they are confident they can supply all the parts etc most likely bmw nz will be quoting for the parts side will be a really expensive list and probably quote on more parts than is really needed. I am getting a 07 M6 repaired with only frontal damage and I saw the parts quote and the panel beaters quote was HUGE!!!! so they wrote it off I have got the parts in myself and commissioning the same panel beater to do the repairs all done to a very high spec and with engineer certs etc for much much less than was quoted to the insurance company's. you need to take control of it as they will just fob you off etc . get a good beater to quote on it after the damage parts have been stripped off etc get them to quote with parts they can get new and used (or maybe some bits can be repaired )etc or just take the HUGE retail price on the car pay out and go buy another one

we worship the god of wind

I NEVER have a damaged car towed to a yard - always back home or if the desired repairer is available straight to them. Yards are like vultures they will do anything to have the car sent to their mate's repair shop or to have the assessor write the thing off and buy it off them for next to nothing. I'd just get on the phone and have the car towed to your panel beater and get them to liase with the Insurance assessor directly - this is the best way, as it is in their interest to see the car repaired so they will get onto it and bargain with the assessor in terms of repair cost and probably have a quote for the assessor even before he or she sees the vehicle. Don't leave it at the yard - get it towed ASAP to the panel shop. Even if they end up writing it off the Insurance should cover for towing to and from place of damage to place of repair (even if it is from yard to panel shop). I have had cars towed home and then towed to the panel shop subsequently and everything was covered by Insurance. Personally I would also tell the panel shop to send you a quote before they send it to the assessor - that way you can see whether the repair cost is inflated or whether there are parts you can source cheaper elsewhere. Here's an eg. of an accident I had in a Civic Type R many moons ago. The car was insured for $13K and it was a heavy frontal (my fault completely - stupid giveway sign and someone running a red light which I couldn't track down) - my full cover paid for the damage to the other vehicle (I think it was some $5K or $6K). The Civic was sent to Honda's repair shop and the damage came out to be around about $10K to repair with all new parts. The Insurance wanted to write the thing off, until I looked at the parts prices (which were about $6K) - I told the insurance company that I could source half of the parts at much less than the indicated and they would be genuine parts that I would happily accept responsibility for, this brought down the parts bill by about $2K and under the mandatory write off value. The vehicle was repaired and parts supplied (with proper invoice from a friend in the parts business). Moral of the story - if it is close to write off value, look at the parts costs - there's often 10-15% margin there that you can easily save and it could mean the difference between having a car written off or not. p.s. Not every Insurance company or repair shop will of course accept this, but if you are a good negotiator and point out to them that this would be win win for everyone involved (insurance company paying less, panel shop gets the job even if they lose out on parts margin, and you get a properly repaired vehicle) then there's a good likelihood that you can save a car from being written off.

But I can modify my own copy of the book if I want? It's not going to be redistributed in that state. Same goes for any computer I buy, modified every single one, sure it voids warranty if you're still in that period but that's it. I'd be curious to see something like this go through the courts.

Hold up. If she hit me.. Shouldn't the cost not matter? Since her insurance will be paying for it, not mine on an agreed value? My insured amount with my insurance company shouldn't mean anything if her insurance are footing the bill

The m50 will go to 8500 on hydraulic lifters without a issue i can prove that , any higher you'll need solid, cast cranks are know to absorb harmonics better than billet even Nascar still use a cast cranks at times. There's very little point i pulling big numbers out of any motor if your not making power there all you do is break stuff for bragging rights or a cool dyno sheet, my M50 with stock everything on a 250,000km motor apart from cams was still making torque and power at 7500 and no sign of lifter issue so why flog it. Want more low down stroke it to whatever as for gospel? Remember its all very well people giving great advise but your the guy that's driving it and that your yet to do, so really you have no dam idea how its going to go, your longer rod gives better compression loading on the crank blah blah blah. Here's a better deal finish it then drive it you should be around 1000-1100kg if not lighter, add to that 5-600hp 400ft/lb torque so around 2:1 power to weight , now im more than likely got this totally wrong but at a guess you'll be a ton faster than a 1200kg making 350-400hp to which i believe can lap Hampton in 1:10. Bottom line theories are a awesome thing they can also screw with your head, plan things yes but your still got to know how to drive it and set the thing up to prove they were worth the time and money to start, many have done more with less.

Hmm... We originally wanted to do the build with an N/A S54 to have revs similar to the original M12 2.0 (well close anyway) but costs looked like they would spiral by the time we brought a possibly dodgy one in and rebuilt it. We would be restricted to probably 400hp tops, likely less with our small budget. Our boys convinced me that after driving the 1M, a turbo would be OK provided it was loud enough and revved. We know that the m50 nv 2.5 will go to 7500 or possibly 8000 with solid lifters, so close enough and it can make up to 1200 hp if you are Scandinavian. But we have the issue of it being a cast crank. Kayne Barrie has been in my ear about rod/stoke ratio and a longer rod is better for a number of reasons. With special turbo pistons we can get a 140mm rod in there and with the 84 throw 2.8 crank, the rod ratio is 1.66 (ideal is apparently 1.7 or greater according to the gospel of KB). If we go to the even longer stroke 3.0, the rod may need to be shorter than 140 to leave enough meat above the piston pin in order to get a reliable piston. Rod/stroke ratio then goes down to 1.56 with the 140 rod and 1.5 with a 135 rod. Logic might be flawed somewhere, but we think that the 2.8 will be more of a rev box

Funny you should say that. I've been toying with exactly that idea. A set of Alpinas would be better though..

Ordered a new suspension link and it'll arive in the morning so in the mean time I've been cleaning. The interior has come up real nice. Then it was into those bits that most people forget to clean when they wash their car. And this car was definitely forgotten. Next was the engine bay. I dont know if it'll show in the pics but it's a whole lot cleaner than it was. Also found a few more things that need attention while I was cleaning. The fan shrouds broken and needs a replacement and the oil filter top mounts are broken. Before After.

Hah, all good. From what I understand by the part number on the front spring they should be the H&R Sport ones. They have BMW 3/1 VA (F) written on the front springs. They've been in my car for about three years now but since upgraded to a 6cyl so replacing the front ones accordingly. Should be out of the car next weekend if all goes to plan. This is how the car sat before the engine conversion was done.

Driving back from Hampton Downs today I experienced some of the most obnoxious driving. The driver was in a Mitsubishi Legnum along with about three other guys. They were driving in the right lane not passing any one so I decided because they were going 80-90k that I would go up the middle and undertake them then I popped back into the right lane to overtake the guy that was in the middle lane up ahead. Oh of course they didn't like this, so they went into the middle lane and then got up right along side me for a while. They then proceeded to cut me off to get in front of me just before I was to pass the guy in the middle lane slightly up ahead - they sure knew I was there! Honked my horn at them so they then brake checked me. Any who, I got back in front of them at some stage before the Victoria Park Tunnel and every time I did some form of overtaking manoeuvre they decided they would follow suit and get right up behind me each time. In the end they ended up cutting me and one other off before Esmonde Road, by shooting across three lanes to get off at the off-ramp. I did get some of that on video in my car - however I thought best not to post it as the language wasn't particularly ladylike. Not that I'm the most perfect driver but unfortunately it's common in Auckland to see stupid behaviour like this. Rant over.

Just be aware that many of the cheap AV cables on Tardme and Ebay will not work with later iPods and earlier ones running late firmware You need to ask if they will work with your firmware, or pay Apple's exhorbinant price for genuine AV cable.