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So here's what I take from this thread. NA engines that make power at 7000 RPM or better are pretty much the only engines that get classified as performance engines.(By Ron) LS Engines (alloy)are not performance engines even though their light weight and size allow them to fit into small engine bays and give significant power to weight increases. The E36 is not an exciting chassis (even though Ron owns one) Torque is largely overlooked in this discussion but it's a real factor in street car performance and while turbo motors can emulate this level of torque they lack the linearity. Finally to dispel the rumour that pushrods dont rev read this. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/4-8l-crank-ls3-block-how-to-build-an-8000-rpm-ls-stroker/ no rocket science here just short stroke big bore basics. Now that in an E36 sounds like some fun. Over 100 HP per litre. And unlike some of the mythical motors Ron has put forward this one is a bread an butter build. Now I already know from posting this in the wrong area that's Ron's response is basically to abuse but the above build shows that by Ron's metric an LS can be a performance engine.

E46 S65 M3 Touring E34 535is M54B30 repower E36 2litre for the track 1502 2litre Alpina powered having a makeover 1990 NZ new M Sport getting a makeover/2.8 M20 stroker repower E21 M52B28 repower

No more blue door! Grey primer instead, but it's a start! 2 weeks to the day til I can get my injector seals (cheaper to pick them up on my next visit to wellington than pay $6 freight for $5 of seals). After that I should have it on the road. Meanwhile the racecar got a 19mm irrigation elbow between the heater hoses, and filled with coolant, started and no leaks! Very hot inside with both front window regs stuffed, and no blower motor though. Especially with the huge hole in the firewall yet to be filled! And the compact.... well it needs a profile gasket. So I'll keep topping up the water until I have at least one more car road legal and can afford to pull it off the road and repair it. Or keep an eye out for a very cheap m43b16.

Hooray. Cant wait to see it on the road Eli.

It's almost time to revist this But now I've got more things to play with. Current parts include: Several period correct BMW headunits Period correct Alpine HU, that apparently came in the Countach Existing 2010's Sony CD HU 2 possbily period correct or 2000's amps 2 sets of factory tweeter pods Rear premium speakers Front premium speakers Rear standard speakers Front standard speakers 5.25" (I think) Cerwin Vega speakers with custom housing to fit an e28 footwell Some random aftermarket tweeters if I can remove them from my M535i Possibly a 10" Sub of some kind 6x9's coming out of my ears, plus 2 sets of custom housings to fit them into an e28 Of course most of that isn't particularly useful, but it's a start I can also most likely get my hands on a 90's Blaupunkt HU with CD stacker (currently in a friends e36 glovebox)

I Finally got around to converting the 330i from an auto to 6 speed manual today.. - and it feels great! if anyone wants some help on the E46 conversion, happy to help. and FYI I used a M3 (S54) clutch and flywheel instead of the stupidly expensive 330 one with the built-in pilot bearing. I made an adaptor to use the 6speed type needle bearing to fit in the crank where the "normal" ball roller would go.. although this meant machining up an adaptor it was well worth it.. The cutch plate for the 6speed was also used - they are the same diameter and thickness as an M3 one so, fit in there just nicely, just the splines are different than an M3.. swapped the diff to the original spec 2.93 ratio removed the viscous fan and swapped out the aux fan etc to be as original manual config.. ----------------- this goes with the recent mods - changed out the std headlights for Bi-Xenons (huge improvement ) and upgraded to the Hi-Fi spec audio ( huge improvement too!) added TV function back, with a Tuner mod that allows digital Freeview reception and keeps the stock video module.

All appears to be running fine (touch wood). Clutch and gearbox much nicer with new fluid and slave. Just need to sort insurance, WOF, valve adjustment, reverse light (dodgy connection, no biggy) and an occasional rattling from the rear of the car. I also installed a new (, bigger and correct) battery

New slave cylinder installed, bled the clutch, redline fluid in the gearbox, new coolant. After dinner top up the brake fluid and then it's test drive time

Sell it and get a 650i 42% more power 96% more torque. Cheapest most trouble free way to get more performance

Idle issue fixed by giving the ICV some attention. Now idles consistently at 1k. Fixed the alternator by plugging it in properly. Drove it up the road with no issues, other than the clutch not playing ball, needs new fluid, rebleeding, new filler cap. I might change the slave cylinder while I'm there too. Next up gearbox fluid change, new clutch fluid, new brake fluid reassemble the interior and off for a WOF. So yeah, New Years is very feasible.

I got it running. Now appears to drive fine, just idle hunts between 1k and 1.5k. And now it looks like the alternator has died But at least it runs

Saw this while I was in NP last weekend. Very nice looking car.

Dam thats tidy, nice car mate.

Nice vehicle and welcome!