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think its pretty hard to deny that there global warming, but i disagree with the notion that humans caused it and therefore we all should pay carbon taxes etc, its just the cycle and it will continue long after humans have gone from this place

Looks good. So tempted to get an E36 Coupe again.

referring to muscle cars before they discovered independent rear suspension.

Sorry price added I have both manual and smg I prefer the smg still drives like a manual just takes a little time to perfect the shifts etc

Hi guys, It's been a while since i've posted on the forum, but have been checking in every now and again. Some of you may remember when I converted my e34 540i from automatic to 6 speed manual in 2010. 5years of fun was had going to track days and enjoying her. In late 2015 I was thinking about supercharging and started looking into options. Unfortunately I couldn't locate one, at which point I decided to build an M60B44. This is using the M60 heads, valve train and timing equipment and a M62B44 bottom end from an E38/E39 etc. I chose to regrind the M60 cams to something more aggressive. Standard cams have an advertised duration of 246 intake/242 exhaust. Franklin Cams reground mine to 272/252. The M62B44 headgasket was used and an oil feed for the original "U" timing chain was blocked as the M60 timing guides are different. Most things that could be replaced, were replaced. Several months into the build, I found a supercharger in the USA and thought to myself...why not? It took approximately 2months to arrive, but this gave me plenty of time to actually get it running and iron out some of the bugs. The supercharger arrived ~3weeks ago. The clutch setup has been custom made/modified by Autoclutch in Auckland. I have now done 1300km on the rebuilt engine, and it definitely pulls stronger in all gears up to the current redline. I tried to dyno the car 3 weeks ago, but unfortunately the radiator blew a hole just before the dyno run was about to start. New radiator and heavy duty fan installed as a precaution. Tomorrow (27/6/16) I have a dyno run to see how it pulls out of the box. This is using the factory ECU/DME for the M60B40. I know I didn't need to do it as I will be installing the supercharger straight off the bat, but I wanted to compare with my Auto dyno run in ~2009. Another run will be done after the supercharger and piggy back ECU install/tune. Aiming for ~400whp with the blower. A 320lph AEM fuel pump and 42lb injectors arrived last week. Enjoy. http://imgur.com/a/9bCZm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkMwtzC8qcI

Still, haven't sold this beaut. 7k ono Factory M sport and manual 328i. It has done 288.000 Kms but she still has a lot in her in fact she's still producing the 200hp from factory ( take account drivetrain loss when you look at the dyno sheet ) For the 2 years of ownership, the engine hasn't given me any grief no weird noises nor hiccups. The only reason for selling is I have an mk5 r32 golf coming along and I have to pay for a pretty big sum of aviation fees. Here's what I've done to her. -New NGK iridium spark plugs -Brand new BMW gen window seals ( wasnt cheap...) -New rocker cover gasket and stem seals -Front and rear rotor replacement -Front and rear brake pad replacement -New ABS speed sensor -F & R brake pad wear sensor -Aluminum Thermostat housing with new seals ( plastic ones are dog sh*t) -PMC Short shifter -Referb Cloth seats (Leather ones that was in the car had a tad of wear so OCD kicked in ) -AC blower unit replacement AC blows nice and cold -Headliner got redone -Serviced with Liqui Moly 10w40 full synth (Service history will be given to the next owner) - 3k respray(immaculate exterior and interior ) - Repainted AC Type 3 wheels with new tires - Tinted to 35% - Adrenaline R muffler - m3 Bilstein suspension - New drive shaft donut - Rear subframe mounts intact ( the underbelly of this old girls in pretty good nick for her age ) -Leather door cards so there's no shitty fabric sag -Sub and speakers All electronics work from the defroster to the interior lights !! a very dialyable car. Before you comment that it has astronomical k's for the price just take into account how much money and labor that has been spent to make this car a very tidy example of a dying breed of car. Feel free to view and test drive. Located in Tauranga IMG_0172.mov IMG_0161.mov IMG_0159.mov IMG_0157.mov IMG_0152.mov IMG_0141.mov IMG_0138.mov

That is a beaut. I think the price is reasonable for an excellent example.

Poked around under the wheel arches while sweeping the garage. Most of this is from the rear left arch, not the first time I have cleaned it, amazing how much dirt can build up. Saw the first e30 at pick-a-part for a while, 2.5 manual! Unfortunately in the 7 days it was in the yard before I got there it was nearly completely stripped. Might be a good thing knowing my spare part collecting habit. Got the piece of plastic trim which runs along the boot as mine is all cracked + a bunch of plastic clips etc New cambelt + waterpump Tested the injectors (purchased rebuild kit from ebay a while ago), jumped fuel pump relay to make sure none were leaking, tested resistance = ok. The first time I put pressure to the fuel rail it appeared my feed hose clamp was leaking but it still leaked after I tightened it, closer inspection revealed the fuel hose was cracked, lucky I noticed. THIS IS THE FUEL HOSE I REPLACED ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO: I assume the problem here is a google search tells me SAE 30 R7 is not suitable for 'Fuel Injection' you should use SAE 30 R9. Why is it labelled 'injection hose' then? Seems to mainly be the outer layer which is cracked. The hose is codan brand, a google search tells me codan is good, a google search also tells me people have had 'R9' hoses crack after a couple of years, even 'Gates' brand R9 hose. Then there is a question of whether those people received 'genuine' 'Gates' hose or not. Substandard parts are frustrating, can't trust anyone anymore. Purchased some SAE 30 R9 hose, replaced the feed line, still have the original return hose on the car (not cracked), holding off replacing it as currently I trust that 27 year old hose more than the new stuff. Sending injectors away for a flow test / cleaning seems to run about $200 - $250 so I came up with a backyard solution. You need something to pulse the injectors because if you hold them open for too long it might damage them. Below is an 'em276 injector tester' cost about $40. I jumped the fuel pump relay and ran the injectors for 30 seconds each timed against a stop watch. If you do this I suggest a fused wire with a switch to jump the pump relay (be careful with sparks around fuel vapour!) Some empty bottles allowed for observation of the spray pattern All even. A 60 second test is probably better for the bottle size. Decided there was no reason to rebuild them but then I tried cleaning the pintle caps with degreaser which was a mistake as the dirty degreaser got stuck underneath them. So I replaced the pintle caps and decided I might aswell use the rest of the rebuild kit aswell, the basket filters looked clean when I pulled them out, new orings etc. I don't think I gained anything doing this as the injectors were already working well. but anyway, rebuilt, re-flow tested and reinstalled. Degreaser did not do much while trying to clean the inside of the intake manifold but sca throttle body / card cleaner did. New 'rein' 3 way heater hose to replace the original with bulging end. Annoyingly the bit by the overflow tank is about 1 inch longer than the original for some reason, still usable but doesn't sit properly (doesn't fit into clamp in the back of air box). New intake gaskets, it seems they commonly get oil soaked from the valve cover, maybe why they fail, so I tried something different. The outer edge of the gasket seems to be raw cut (doesn't have any coating) I assume this allows oil to soak into the gasket easier. So I put a FINE layer of silicone on the outer edge. I didn't use silicone on the gasket face itself, personally I am not a fan of silicone gasket goo, if bmw didn't put it there neither do I. Too many times I have seen / heard of it separating and ending up in the wrong place. I have seen people say torque specs are only for wheel bolts and head bolts. Each to their own, generally if I can find a torque spec I use it. Deleted more of the silicone hose that was on the car when I got it. This is the t-stat to throttle body hose, as mentioned before, I prefer the molded hoses, the silicone ones seem more trouble than they are worth. This one has yellow tape around it because it didn't sit properly and kept rubbing on something. Maybe the original hoses are molded for a reason. Motor is back together and running, haven't driven it yet as there are other things to be done...

I made 195rwkw/260rwhp on the M60B44 with reground cams using factory M60B40 ECU. Gavin did some non-boost tuning and it made ~205rwkw/275rwhp. This is my first personal experience with a standalone ECU (and re-wiring, let alone tuning one...), but I found after research, reading and speaking with knowledgeable people, the learning curve wasn't bad and I learnt a lot. The car wasn't running without the LINK and he didn't tune with boost to start with, rather safely tune off-boost and move into it. The LINK team are friendly and helpful with questions... being NZ based is also useful while the car is on the dyno and the owner (me) asks something to specifically be tuned from Gavin... literally within 5min the answer was found and we pressed on.... I am very happy with Gavin, the LINK, the tune, the build and the car!

No, no one should get a prius, ever!

I don't think you followed what I said. I actually said electric commuter cars were a great idea, especially when they run hydrogen systems. Anyway............