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Hey everyone, Looking to sell my E36. I have owned her for a year and a half. Originally listed as was planning on leaving the country but now my plans have changed I am staying but need to free up some money for study. NZ new manual. 220,000kms will go up as is my only car. Calypsorot. Half leather interior* M Sport steering wheel and gear knob. Brand new Michelin PS4s all round (Bishops Garage Feb 2018) + alignment. Full service and new WOF done on the 1st August from Bishops Garage. No issues at all. Wof and Rego. The rear passenger door has been replaced and repainted due to a run in with a bush causing a big dent. Will upload better and current photos, and of interior when I am back in Auckland. $4,000 for Bimmersport members Located in Freemans Bay, can text me on 021 2951131

It's Joe at Eurosurgeon in Penrose Auckland https://eurosurgeon.co.nz/

That only applies to cheaper versions of "scanners"

I think your 15.5l/100 for a 335i is incorrect. I did a spreadsheet last year when I was about to buy a diesel, comparing a number of six cylinder petrol BMWs (my e46 325i, 530i and 545i e60), and diesel (e60 530d, 535d)... the diesels won on overall cost (fuel consumtption and RUC only), though only over 15,000kms (from memory), and then the higher servicing costs and higher cost of entry for diesel negated a lot of it. I ran a spread of cost-per-litre into the spreadsheet as well, though I don't think I had bet on the cost of petrol hitting $2.75! Suggest you take extra-urban consumption, rather than range-based, as the source of your data - you get skewed by size of tank. Hope that helps. As it happens, I'm still 'driving for free' in the second year of fuel consumption and servicing on the 545i I bought, compared with the 535D ///M that I almost bought! PS - thank you for your reasoned and polite response to my somewhat sarcastic dig at disabling emission control systems!

i'm open to this discussion and suggestions around alternate performing petrol cars, especially since you've already been down this road. have heard fair few people say this but based on my rough calculations i can't seem to figure out how petrol supposedly comes out cheaper, but maybe i'm missing something which i'd be interested to hear as have never owned diesel vehicle before. what i was looking at is in my price range in 'eco' vehicles, there is no such decent horsepower petrol car and so diesel almost wins by default as though it wont offer high hp, it offers atleast torque which can feel nice even though doesn't equate to moving you quickly. yes the rising fuel prices are indeed a concern and may not end up doing too many performance mods (if any at all) as a result especially if impacts emissions by heaps. have asked Joe about that for research purposes and overall budget reasons. @Olaf thanks for keeping me in check, my concerns are exactly that, hence asking around about it and if anyone has actual measured emissions numbers on record. not super keen to be spitting poison out my car so absolutely agree if those are legit concerns then won't be removing from my vehicle just for minor gains in power. in terms of the maths, just measuring them all based on 50L tank for range for sake of simplicity. when i see below, i see that by owning an eco diesel over the next 4 years vs my just sold car or something almost as thirsty (like the 335i), i can save an extra 10k over that period (which to me equates as 1-2 weeks of extra overseas holiday in every year in real terms, or just faster paid off mortgate). for example a 123d would comfortably get about 1000km to a 50L tank @ 5L/100km = 50x1.29 per litre = 64.50 + RUC @ 62 per 100km = total 126.50 for 1000km. $0.1265 per km which I think rivals hybrids? average yearly milage about 9,000 km = $1138.50 fuel cost including RUC. fuel over approx 4 years of ownership (average time i expect to own car for) $4554 335d at 8L/100km , 625km to a 50L tank of diesel + RUC = 126.50, $0.20 per km. average yearly fuel cost inc ruc 1800 4 year fuel cost 7200 my old car at 19L/100km average 260km from 50L tank x 2.26 per litre = $113 (may as well live at the petrol station right? lol) $0.43 per km. 3870 yearly fuel 4 year fuel cost 15480 bmw 135i at 9.6L/100km, which i'd only use 98 petrol on, 520km out of 50L tank (though i do find it hard to beleive..) $0.22 per km 1980 yearly fuel cost $7920 4 year fuel cost bmw 335i 15L/100km, 330km (wouldn't buy this car for fuel economy because its fun car but included for sake of comparison) $0.34 per km $3081 per year $12,327 per year when you add the cents per litre argument in to the mix, it just favours small diesel like 123d even more because the kilometres per litre is superior. i know that i might be bias or have some tunnelvision here so open to suggestions in flaws in calculations. the most obvious flaw i see is that i'm comparing my old cars actual measured value over 2 year period ( i used fuelly) vs figures for the other cars which i found online, which is really bias against my old car (hey it helped me move on :P) and favors all the newer ones. my other factor is that because of increasing price with my car i do tend to borrow more boring eco/diesel cars for longer road trips , id much rather drive my own - something i enjoy etc. so if i get a car that handles okay and still eco then my driven k's would go up by maybe another 2000km per year (so not just mainly commute) which would again favor diesel a lot more. edit : really sorry for thread jacking. i wonder if this discussion should be moved to my topic here. thanks for contributions so far, it's really good to have other peoples perspectives. i should also state that currently being quite frugal i was taking the bus for the past 14 months or so. this means sacrificing approx 3 extra hours (vs driving in) of my personal time each day. that bus service costs me $2200 a year using the discounted price via AT card. if my math is right about the 123d then i'm saving about $1061.50 on driving vs bus which goes a significant way towards paying for parking

SECAM = Sees every colour as Magenta ?

Fixed that for ya: 'Hey yeah, I want to [delete def, egr and dpf] make my car into a toxic emmitter that will kill my neighbours, friends, and family with the products of its tailpipe! Who can I get to make my BMW worse than any VW Diesel ever? I want to disable all of the emissions systems that were so carefully engineered into my BMW at great time and expense, and make it more like a 1970's truck.' ?

Have you confirmed both the in tank and underfloor pumps are running while cranking and supplying pressure to the HP pump?. A good quality tester will have a fuel bleed service function to bleed the system, otherwise and couple of 30sec cranks should do the trick to bleed it if that is in fact the problem. Give your starter a chance to cool between cranking cycles.

correct, eurosurgeon, not EuroItalian, which is Gavins business i was recommending to a friend for some other bits and pieces ha.

yes it does, but I'm not paying $80+ p/m for sky at home

Just to clarify.... the engine was running immediately prior to the underfloor pump and filter being replaced? Is the fault "rail pressure monitoring" still present? . The DDE needs to see a minimum rail pressure set point before it will switch on the injectors and the engine then fire up. If both the in tank and underfloor pumps are running while the engine is cranking then it may be possible that the high pressure pump still has some air bubbles inside and not reaching the DDE set point pressure. How long have you cranked the engine for in one continuous cycle?

talk to Joe at EuroItalian EuroSurgeon, he has done plenty of them, and has a 335d as his daily.

I seem to be getting into the Car S.O.S type shows, more entertaining to see cars being rescued and rebuilt.

Wow sign me up for a test drive! Sound as good as I imagine it would be considering the engine, trans, car weight and balance etc, how could it go wrong! Especially cool as it looks like a nice, yet unsuspecting mums car, a sleeper is always a fun toy.

At this current point the plans for this winter are mostly panel and paint, plus a few other odd jobs. List includes.. - replace rear guards with genuine E30 M3 guards (on order) - full M3 fibreglass kit for other panels, including the C Pillar extension over the rear window. -5-stud hub conversion. Got a compact rear, just trying to sort out the fronts. -overall paint an panel work to tidy her up and paint the black base colour ready for the gold "JTS" decals. -any other small jobs that I come across on the way. - carbon air intake for the engine & piggy-back ECU with tune if there is enough money left in the kitty.

Hi Guys, first post in here. I've been a fan of BMW since 1984 and have owned 6, here's my favourite so far.

Before I got my E60 530i I had an Forester STI, It was a lot of fun but I sold it because at 1.97m it was just to tight up front. The 530i was very nicely balanced and although my wife's 3.5l Aurion was faster in a straight line the balance in the corners was wonderful. My mate Boytie has a 550i and its quite quick and again very nicely balanced in the corners but perhaps not quite as nice as my 530 because of the extra weight up front. I was tempted by a 550i and the touring models always float my boat. I now have a 335i with a tune and its quick compared to both the aforementioned 5 series. Its got massive torque and can rev out cleanly as well. I do a lot of work myself and looking at my notes the 530 cost less to maintain than the STI. The 335i has cost a bit of time but the parts themselves have been reasonable. Up Whitemans valley hill my STI might shade the 335i but only just, an LSD added to the 335i would see it pretty even. Both would be quicker than the 550i but again not by much.

thanks guys, will have a chat with Joe about it also. it's a bit wierd but i'm really having a hard time choosing between a 123d and 335d at the moment. main reason for moving to diesel was fuel economy issues with my commute but with 123d being 10k+ cheaper than the 335d, it provides a fair sum of budget for modifications / tuning work which i'd inevitably do on either car. what is the general consensus here on egr/ dpf removal/disabling? has anyone ever had theirs emission tested ? im slightly worried about impact to wof but more so whether i'd then be driving around spreading ridiculous toxic emissions.