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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/29/20 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    If they can’t do it your taking your vehicle to the wrong workshop for repairs and maintenance
  2. 3 points
    Decided to say screw it and picked up a 5800x (its what's in stock...), Asus ROG X570, 32GB of 3600 ram and a 1TB PCIe 4 NVMe... Its a beast, even without screwing with the clocks (boost clocks stay pegged at max with 360mm AIO for ages), but now my 6 month old 2070 super is the bottleneck... and the circle of life continues.
  3. 2 points
    New handbrake hardware and shoes (the bmw kit for all the handbrake stuff for both sides is cheap as chups), halfshafts cleaned and banged back in.. They look pretty good for how many times they've been spun around! 420Nm on the axle nut = 71kg at 600mm
  4. 1 point
    Hi all, new member to the site here. I’ve owned bmws for years. E46, f20 but just picked up a f30 335i. Long term looking to do a stage 1 or 2 remap and would appreciate any advice on the n55 engine. I’d be keen for the meet up in Auckland also!
  5. 1 point
    Hey guys - my 07 130i is in the shop right now getting the right rear wheel bearing replaced - but the garage can't get the hub assembly apart. Anyone know of where I can source a second hand assembly? Cheers.
  6. 1 point
    With out the right tools to do it, all they will end up doing is damaging parts that would not normally need replacing when replacing a worn wheel bearing.
  7. 1 point
    PFL, I think. Square corners - same as the E24 (iirc).
  8. 1 point
    Probably not wrong! At the AA right now - only place open that could get me in before a trip up north with car, last resort and all that. I'll keep the recommendations in mind, thanks guys!
  9. 1 point
    Starting to make some visible progress again !! Got the seam sealer on (3M polyurethane) all of the welded areas along with some aerosol rubberised underseal ... should have gone with a more hard core 2k product or just used more seam sealer but oh well. Next up I decided I wanted to water blast the under body and wheel arches before cleaning and painting. I made a dam around the car with some left over PEF rod, timber and a bunch of heavy things so water would be contained and eventually flow out the door. Also adapted the water blaster lance to be a 'sawn off' so it shot straight from the trigger Worked well enough all things considered. FINALLY could get some paint on the underbody and make things look a little tidier !! Two coats of 2k grey for the under body and black for the arches. Its basically full gloss and not satin as it should have been due to rolling it instead of spraying, easy to clean I guess 👍 The 2k paint was a solvent for the rubberised undercoat so didn't roll over it too much ... time will tell if its ultimately a good combination.
  10. 1 point
    As Bandit said, thanks for posting this, great to see.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for posting Graham, a walk down memory lane😧
  12. 1 point
    What part wont come apart? Tell them to try harder @HELLBM has 130s
  13. 1 point
    Kayne is amazing. Always supported me whilst I was racing in the BMW series. If he is unable build the engine he will point you in the right direction. He has built a number of gearboxes and diffs for me over the years. As for your M30. I would recommend upgraded valve springs and some locking collars. Also convert the oil pump sprocket nut to a bolt. You won't get significant gains from the motor. It is a bit of lazy lump. Most of us go down the turbo route. There is still some good parts available from VAC Motorsports. https://store.vacmotorsports.com/categories.aspx?keyword=m30 However the only reason I have upgraded at all was because I was going down the turbo hole. Otherwise I would not have bothered. I never had any issues at all whilst racing my stock M30 with some headers, an intake and a conversion to MAP with a piggyback MAPECU2. Gearbox syncros were a nightmare though. I inherited some worn syncros when I purchased the car. Kayne can help you here though.
  14. 1 point
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