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We are not a "new" member here, but notifying all members of our new contact details: We are still happy to sponsor Bimmersport members who mention the forum, and will receive a 15% discount on all in-store items. For those who don't know, Gavin retired earlier this year, and I (Rodney) took over, and look forward to assisting Bimmersport members and meeting some of you. Hence, we have rebranded, and have become even more BMW-focused, especially catering to older E30, E28, E36 models. Our new email address is: [email protected] . Some members may be using the older emails for Gavin, which are now inactive - but we're still around! We are also now on Instagram and Facebook - and also have a new website: www.euroitalianparts.com. Our phone and address is the same: 09 444 9817 / 15C Saturn Place, Rosedale, Auckland 0632. You can also text/WhatsApp me direct on +64 27 446 6547.

Straight through the WOF today - my first such success with the E30! Still a large to-do list however; I'm not sure being mildly pedantic + 35 year old 400,000km car go hand in hand but I'll give it a go!

Finally installed fresh RTAB's on it. I was going to go with Moog camry spherical bearing but gave up on getting them in with the tool I had. Also got my control arms fixed and warrant sorted out. I love suspension work it brings great joy... Control arms and FCAB's. The FCAB's were actually fine but since I was getting everything replaced through FCP Euro I switched them out anyway. The FCP thing did save me a little bit but the shipping definitely adds up. The exchange rate really did help me either. The issue with the tool is that they hadn't machined the top flat so I couldn't flip it around to properly align it. After a few goes trying to get them in I decided to just stick with the OEM RTAB's with limiters since I had some lying around from ages ago. The tool worked fine for getting those back in. Set the preload on the rubber RTAB's to the same angle that they were originally. Haven't driven it much since then as it needs an alignment but from my drive around the block it I can tell that it is definitely feeling a lot more solid on the rear so should be good once that alignment is done. I am now going to refrain from driving on unsealed roads and use the Prado for that...

Trying to get the Arduino side of things complete, at least for the physical install ... which involves my glove box display and temp sensor i am going to put in my engine bay electronics box to see how hot the ECU(s) are getting. Doing this since in Nissan land they are mounted in the cabin. Have been implementing some performance monitoring on the Arduino also which should be a bit of a laugh, taking the ABS wheel speeds so can do things like 0-100, 80-120, 100-0 times or what ever. Poor mans Dragy 😅

Hey guys, after a wiper for my e34, want a factory bmw/bosch wiper (arm that holds the rubber, not the arm coming from the spindle) as opposed to the garbage aftermarket arm that is on there atm. BMW part number: 61618217706

Have now finished with my E46 RTAB tool, if anyone else needs to borrow it can probably ship it to them or pick up from Queenstown.

Thanks Going for cert Monday so hoping for a fairly pleasant experience there !! It's quite fun and would be super keen to see how it feels compared to a 330 and a M3 if I ever get along to a meet or similar where other BMW folks hang ... on the other hand also keen to see how it feels compared to a 370Z haha.

Amazing work, I didn't realise this was already on the road - love how clean and stock it looks for such a modified car 🤙 Bet it rips too

Bump stops prevent the piston contacting the bottom of the tube at full compression by introducing a urethane or rubber "bumper" with a sharply rising spring rate, between the top of the tube and fixed end of the spear. Depending on the suspension design the bump stops may only be to provide "emergency" protection against damage from a big hit, or they may actually be a working part of the suspension under "normal" conditions. Bump stops are an important part of suspension design on high performance cars with short stroke suspension. The bump stops may be external as with Koni yellows, or internal as with many Bilstein shocks. Cheers...

As I'm not that well versed in electronics, I took my sweet time sorting the wiring. Wanted to make a tidy job of it and pretty happy with how it turned out. Started with dissecting the EGS wiring, using the donor car harness as a guide to what's safe to cull. Cut off the plugs going to the old transmission and got rid of the excess wires by pulling them through the tubing, leaving only a few that I reused for the reverse switch wiring. Crimped on a generic plug that I'd lifted off a temperature sensor and shrink wrapped it in place. Took me a while to figure out the fuse box side of it. There seemed to be two different ways of doing it - hooking up the two reverse switch wires to Pins 2 & 6 of X6325 according to this guide OR tap into the black/brown wire (Pin 4) and ground the other as shown in ShopLifeTV's & 50skid's videos. Had to educate myself on how relays work to figure out that both ways will work. Decided to go with Pin 4 and ground, retaining the relay so as to not run the main current through the light switch. The black/brown wire was the last one remaining on a EGS plug after getting rid of all the wires going to the transmission so that got spliced together. For ground I just plugged into the one of the other abandoned EGS plugs. Will do for now, will tidy the remaining loose ends after I've gotten the car up and running. On the inside I ended up also removing the steering column as I noticed the steering angle sensor being a bit too loose for my liking so wanted to check it out. Not sure how much play is normal but did notice the plastic bit on the column where the end of the pin is held in place was slightly cracked. Strengthened it with a bit of epoxy which seems to have solidified it a bit. Also fixed the annoying orientation of the column where the positioning slots on the end of the column and the steering wheel would end up on opposite sides. PO's attention to detail is a joy to behold. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ec2uskchmfbs6w9/2022-11-04 12.11.18.mp4?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/bmg6ngv6po6y1h8/2022-11-04 13.04.49.mp4?dl=0 Clutch switch wiring was pretty straightforward. Also did the reverse light dip wiring as per this guide. Reused the discarded wires from the auto transmission looms. Had two to play with so managed to string longer runs together with matching colours. Also disconnected the previously run cruise control wire to route it more properly. Fished the wires along the factory wiring routes wherever possible, using an old wire coat hanger to route the wires through in behind the heater core. Blue - cruise control to DME Pin 27 Green - clutch switch Pin 2 to DME Pin 23 Yellow - reverse dip X11176 Pin 7 to X428 Taped together the loose wires previously going to the auto shifter and cable tied them out of the way. Also tidied up other wiring where the tape had come loose over time with some new OEM-looking cloth electrical tape. The shift cable hole got plugged with an OEM blind plug (Part #07147140849 but and 35mm plug should do) and threaded some short bolts I found to the other shifter mounting bolt holes. Figured out why the wiring around the steering column had looked pretty hectic previously. While digging through the newest parts car I noticed the black plastic channel bolted to the side of the steering column - on Barbara it was missing completely. Lovely. While in there... I also took out the heater core for a thorough flush and some fresh O-rings. Getting the pipes back in is an absolute prick of a job, would recommend a second set of hands when tackling this. Ripped out the dash from the parts car that, underneath all the filth, looked in better shape than the old one. Gave it a good thorough clean with a steam cleaner and applied 2 coats of Aerospace 303 protectant to make it look nice and crisp. No more footprint or phone holder dildo smack in the middle of it. Love it. Dug out the armrest-less center console bit and set of cupholders I'd picked up from the wrecker's some months ago and spent a good few hours rubbing off the scratched up rubberised coating to expose the clean plastic underneath. Those also got a couple of coats of 303 to freshen them up. Cut a hole in the underside dash panel for the clutch pedal and pretty much put the interior back together. All that's missing is the shiftknob. Three pedals at last.

Still well ahead of the average car around im sure. Like they told me at school 'its what on the inside that counts'. Lots of polished turds around when it comes to vehicles.

Also, major development on the engine output front !! Had been feeling like it was no where near as potent as it was lately although it was driving much better (idle, rev hang etc). Have been trying to data log my a/f ratios or voltages via Android app NCSIII and OBD2 dongle but alas they only have readings in 'alpha' ... this was on the thought that my sensors are much further back in the exhaust than previous and may not be getting hot enough etc, hence skewing things. Annnnnnnyyyhoooooo ... via the phone app I could at least reset the fuel trims, so I did that. Idle and drivability back to been a bit pants BUT it must have picked up 100hp !! Back to ripping like it used to. So will have to get it on a dyno with some calibrated wide band and see what the story is some time soon ... great that I was not imagining it slowing up at least !! Now, these may look essentially like the same photos but ... they're not 😆 Did a ceramic spray coating, dressed the tyres and finally cleaned under the bonnet. Its probably looking about as good as its going to for a while !!

A neglected pair of tourings (both NZ new - 328i and 330d, look like they've been sitting since 2018)