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I see that I didn't make a post about the end result. 1998 B3 3.2 switch-tronic saloon manual 6 speed conversion. The 4 saloons which were built in RHD were all switch-tronic so I thought why not. Except for the steering wheel, everything is oem spec 3.2 manual. Sam at Hellbm completed the conversion for me, with my supplied parts including various new bushes, bearings etc: -M3 evo 420g, C.V driveshaft etc -New e36 m3 clutch, dual mass flywheel etc -New Alpina shift knob Sam completed the work smoothly and quickly which was awesome. In my tarting up of the driveshaft paint I had painted over the white alignment dots, and there was a bit of a thumpa thumpa at 90kmh which I attributed to this. Dots found, realigned and still thumpa. I took it apart again and lubed the splines up, checked preload on CSB etc. reassembled and vibration mostly gone. Maybe anything remaining is the rear wheel balance?? Clutch engagement was near the floor. Clutch pedal disassembled and found to have flogged out bushes/material which I rebushed and for the small amount of slack which was removed, the clutch engagement improved drastically. Darned plastic pedal... Alpina used the US spec Siemens MS41.1 which is half OBD2 and half OBD. INPA etc over usb identified EWS, KMB and ABS but would only access EWS for me to change from auto to manual. So I just removed the trans fault bulb from the cluster. No issues anyway with idle or rev hang, as evidently the Alpina DME don't have auto or manual allocation. I'm sort of curious whether the KMB fuels differently when pulling away from standstill between auto and manual, because I do have to focus a bit more than I recall on manual BMWs I have owned in the past. I still have the switchtronic steering wheel and will likely keep it out of sheer laziness, unless I can source an Alpina stitched airbag and have a sport wheel restitched to match... End result I'm really happy with.

All mods, especially aesthetic ones, involve a lot of subjectivity, don't let what others think sway you too far from your preferences. I've added some small details to mine, I'm satisfied that I like them. You have BMWP pedal covers in case you didn't already know; a reasonably common 'upgrade' but an appreciated one nevertheless.

Cavity wax is a great shout. Just called Spraystore, they've got the 3M stuff in stock, will pop by and pick some up today. Kept tinkering away at it last night, peeled back the sound deadening & seam sealer in the boot floor, luckily looks like that panel ends in front of that bracket and doesn't sneak under it. One annoying thing is that there's a spot weld right under the bracket overhang but I might be able to drill it out through one of the openings in the top of it. Back into it tonight, weld-in-beam mission is all go.

It took me a while to get used to the clutch feel since the biting point felt so high. Then I saw that BMS clutch stop is often regarded as the best $20 ever spent on manual BMWs. The design seemed pretty simple so I decided to make my own. I looked in the footwell and noticed that there is no clutch stop at all. The clutch pedal was just hitting against the carpet behind. I took some measurements of the silver mounting plate, CAD'd up the first prototype with 10mm stop, and 3D printed one(white circle in pic). The difference was more than I anticipated, it just feels much nicer to shift and I don't I have to work as hard since I don't need to literally floor the clutch pedal anymore. Now that the design works, I'll make on out of something more softer. Annnnd yes, I ordered some Msport coloured grill inserts from Temu(NZ Aliexpress) and they fit perfectly I don't know if it's something that's frowned upon but hey, this is my first beemer after all

Awesome advice. I have revisited your thread several times to get a grasp of what I'm in for. Ended up going down a somewhat different route though. Asked a few collision repair centers for advice on suppliers, ended up at Spraystore. Laid out what I'm doing, showed photos and told the fella what I'm after. Since it was clear that I'm an absolute novice when it comes to paint and wasn't going to be using a spray gun, he recommended a different solution, so this is what I ended up with. So after welding, 2 coats of this 1K primer, 3M polyurethane seam sealer where it needs it and 2-3 coats of satin enamel brushed on over top. Decided against underseal and will just try add some texture with the seam sealer as you had suggested. Got the enamel top coat mixed to the following code, which seemed a close enough match to the greenish-grey that BMW used from factory so should blend in well enough. Could have definitely gone more hardcore with 2K stuff as you & Eagle had but should do the job still. Would have loved to also go over and redo the whole underside and wheel arches but am getting pressured to vacate the hoist so won't have the time to go all out this time around, will just stick to the affected areas.

Update Been driving around having fun but the gearbox is very 80s so decided to go for a a zf8 conversion so have started the process

Kicked off the subframe reinforcement mission. Jumped at an opening in the rally season to occupy my mate's hoist for a wee while, which makes the task that much easier, although still a bit of a hellish undertaking. Props to all you brave souls that tackle this on jackstands, absolute troopers. A lot more stuff had to come off than I'd anticipated, the whole fuel system seemed like a spider web with endless hoses going everywhere, each one more annoying to get off than the last. Nevertheless, got the underside prepped for welding - plate locations stripped down to bare metal and treated with weld-through primer. Wheel arch joins and RTAB pocket stitch weld areas also cleared from underseal. All looked to have been in good nick, no cracks that I could find in all the usual suspect areas, a few spot welds that looked a bit suspect but none that had obviously popped. Well worth addressing preventatively regardless. A solid weekend's worth of work. One thing I'm undecided on still is how far to go with the topside reinforcing. I did get the weld-in beam to put in but might stop at the chassis rail plates by themselves. The touring boot floor has an extra bracket that makes removing the necessary sheet metal that much less straight forward. Torn between taking the whole bracket out as well or pulling back in scope a bit. During the engine rebuild, I'd been taking every rusty and grimy bolt I got my hands on to the wire wheel on the bench grinder and making them all clean & shiny. Unbeknownst to me, along with the grime and rust I'd also been taking off whatever protective coating they had left so after all of a few months back on the road all of the bolts were now rustier than they had been. I still had a few cans of caliper paint left so have been running a small OCD mission alongside the bigger stuff and tidying up the bolt heads & nuts as well. Can't have any rusty bolts being an eyesore.

Style 193s are a great fit on the e46 and looks awesome imo