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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/15/25 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    BUMP .As per Title , no centre caps , will need refurbishing . These are getting harder to find now. $900 $700 ONO .Get in before i chuck them on Tarde Me😬
  2. 1 point
    I'm Shantelle (aka Shorty) – long-time BMW fan and former E36 328i owner. It’s been around 9 years since I was last active on Bimmersport – life got busy! I sold the E36 when I had my first daughter, and since then, I've welcomed a second daughter, built a house, and finally found myself back behind the wheel of a fun weekend toy. I’m now the proud owner of a 2010 E82 135i with DCT – black, sleek, and such a joy to drive. First thing I did was give it a full paint correction using Meguiar’s products (I’m the marketing manager at Smits Group, so naturally, I’m lucky enough to use and market products I genuinely love). I recently picked up a set of 19" BBS CH104s – they’re not quite the right offset, but I’m hoping to get them machined and refinished. They're a bit rough (and buried under about three coats of black), so I’m tossing up a new colour – leaning towards bronze... but we’ll see where I land. I've already got coilovers ready to go on and have started the DIY journey – tackled an oil and filter change myself, and took the car to Juned at Manukau Vehicle Servicing for a DCT service, rear brake pads, and a new radiator (after a surprise leak – fun!). Mechanically it's now solid, and I’m really looking forward to getting out and enjoying it. Once the wheels and suspension are sorted, the car will be re-registered as LOWBMW – a bit of a throwback for those who remember my old E36 with the same plate! Keen to reconnect with the community and get inspired again – good to be back! First two photos are pre-paint correction, car had definitely taken on a grey hue. Also my drivers door has had a VERY terrible paint job - on the list of things to fix.
  3. 1 point
    Thank you, have got a pedal box sorted now though, I should update the original post.
  4. 1 point
    Lower pressure could also be a result of the 90s e30 cap recall. There was concerns around pressure build up and scolding an unsuspecting owner.This one was for m20s and I remember being sent a new cap for my 84 323i https://bmwtechinfo.bmwgroup.com/sib_attachments/B170293.pdf and https://charm.li/BMW/1984/318i (E30) L4-1766cc 1.8L SOHC (M10)/Repair and Diagnosis/Technical Service Bulletins/All Technical Service Bulletins/Recall - Coolant System Overheating/
  5. 1 point
    Manual pedal box listed today on the E30 buy/sell FB page Elias. Tried to tag you but didn't work.
  6. 1 point
    It's been a topic of debate around the forums for a good while. Some see it as an "upgrade", the logic being lower pressure = less strain on the plastic & rubber components in the cooling system = longer life for the cooling system components. The counter argument is that lower pressure = lower boiling point = higher chance of vapours in the system. Gases don't transfer heat nearly as efficiently as fluids, leading to localised hot spots or hot pockets in the engine, which obviously isn't good. I'm far from an expert but from what I gather you'll probably be fine running with either option if the car only sees light everyday use. It'd take quite a bit of bashing to get it to the extremes where the difference would start to show so you get two camps of people who claim to have run with their preference for years and have never had issues. Personally, I like to preventatively replace the main failure prone cooling system components and stick with the cap the car was designed for.
  7. 1 point
    It's been kicking around for a wee while. Pretty sure the KiwiCarLife fella sold it not too long ago for $5k so this fella is being a bit cheeky listing it straight away for $1k on top of it having seemingly done nothing to it. I actually had a chat to him about it when he had it, it's far from perfect... It's been repainted, the quality of which is questionable. Apparently will need injectors imminently, amongst other things. He was gonna keep it but seemingly saw that it's too much for him so flicked it on soon after. Probably the same story for the new guy too. It's sporting an N53 so is direct injected, with comes with some pros but heaps of cons. Cheap for a manual BMW, but there's a reason for it.
  8. 1 point
    I installed a new diffuser today that hides most of the "cow udder" effect of the M2C exhaust. Probably should have removed the bumper because I broke the stock one during removal (very surprised at how brittle it was!). Not too much of a concern, it's an inexpensive part and I quite like the new one. This is just a plastic one from China, fit is good and tight, installation was easy enough, the plastic is arguably more durable than the stock one. Hopefully it doesn't melt! 😭 Old: New:
  9. 1 point
    I’m putting the original Premium(Alpine) stereo back in my 1987 E30 but am missing the amplifier. Does anyone have one available, or an alternative that will work? thanks. Located Auckland.
  10. 1 point
    8k seems excessive, probably doing it the long way. Someone who has proper tools and done the job before should be much cheaper, there was a thread in 2018 which the job cost someone ~$3000. Obviously prices have gone up since then and part brands can vary the price some what, but pays to shop around as they were quoted $5000 to do it via another workshop. There is another Wellington member @Spinner99 who did the job in that thread and bought tools so maybe he can help you out.
  11. 1 point
    Whilst this is true, 70% isn't enough to lift the labels so you gotta start high. Now, having said that, I didn't need to soak them for long enough to actually worry too much about evap, the towels were still moist as I lifted the labels. I went in unsure, some internet "facts" say you need to leave it soaking for 15 mins, I didn't have to wait that long.
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