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Had the opportunity to purchase this, 1986, two previous owners. It is very original and complete and I am very pleased with it.

Sorry mate, hope someone else more into coding can help you.

Not a garage find as such. I will get some more photos when the whole family is home.

Found my intermittent misfire this morning on the way back from Napier. After small stutters for a good hour I had zero codes. Then not far from home the check light came on and I lost a cylinder. I had thought the entire time that it felt like a coil pack starting to die. But as I had new ones I thought it must be something else. Was number 5. Swapped it to one of my good old ones and the problem seems to have been solved. So I don't recommend these coils. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/bmw-high-performance-ignition-coil-single-coil/5005~bav/

I am looking for an armrest for an E46. Must be grey leather and in good condition. Thanks.

As others have said there needs to be a final goal in mind when doing modifications otherwise your piddling into the wind so to speak! With the the 5 stud it needs to be worth it/what you really want. I done mine the E36 m3 way, this costs alot and as @nick496 mentioned some can't be brought new anymore. This is the knuckles, the rest can. With this swap you gain bigger brakes and the wheel options. My plan is to do the odd track day so this was worth it for this, and I have several sets of wheels to choose from. If you only plan on one set of wheels and they come on 4x100 it's not really worth the swap for the swap (several thousand). There's a few things in my build thread showing it but if you need more info feel free to PM me to get more details. The adjustable suspension also needs to be thought about long term. If your just wanting to lower it and never going to adjust it then some good springs and shocks will have better results.

Pretty good prices and shipping costs, just wish they would deduct VAT...

I think anything other than stock looks naff. There are these type: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/exterior/listing/3191005377 but I just don't think they suit the e36. Second hand units are available for ~$60-80 a side and they should be fine if all the clips are in place. You can get a replacement gasket for them and polish the glass if need be.

Welcome to the rod bearer club we hold our meetings every 50k to 100k kms, preferably nearer to 50k. As usually beyond 100k kms you get promoted to the connecting rod club. Yes the M button changes a bit, depending on your setting. Usually the P500S (not P500) will make the throttle response much sharper. The throttle body will now open 100% instead of 80-90% or something like that. The intake sound will be more apparent, that is what you actually hear more and not the exhaust on P500S. EDC will go level 2, to be honest that is too stiff for the public roads so my M button is only set level 1. It would also put the steering I believe on a stiff setting (not sure, I maybe wrong but I do feel it). DSC will go to M Dynamic Mode (in theory car will slip, but assist enough). The archaic HUD changes to rpm (not really useful, seems slow and better to look at the real tach) but looks fun. It all depends on what you have M button set to, these are the supposed defaults.... oh yeah I forgot (this feature goes old after 1 time use) the seat bolster will move (delayed) when you turn on M mode.... I feel this is unsafe feature. Imagine turning on M-mode for the first time, go into a corner first time... and suddenly the seats move?!? I wish there as a P400S or something, 500 HP on public roads is over kill and not as enjoyable as lower powered car. This also means less time on the upper range of the revs (it becomes a different car past 6,000 rpm). Yes I have never used S6, I feel really bad when the car is already on S5. I have now learned to slightly back-off after the up shift, just before it engages the next gear and step on it after the gear is engaged. Significantly makes the shift smoother in S3 to S5, and makes driving more engaging. Another trick I learned from an owner at Christchurch, is just use the auto S1 (default, was super annoyed by this before) for the warm up. It's great for this use case, as it's super aggressive in shifting up engine hardly touches 2,000 rpm. Hope to see photos of your car, E61 is not something we usually see often.

Eibach springs to go with the Koni's - only driven 50km, but it actually feels like it rides better(?) than with OEM springs. Definitely looks better. CSL ride height target. Also new spec gearbox oil from @HELLBM - smoother shift is nice, ~192km