kerrynzl

I can see it now, Some drunken wanker runs himself over while parking his own car!

Hey Andy,spend all your budget on a decent jack $300 can get a good Trolley Jack, I see the Lightrweight Alloy ones advertised in petrolhead mag for this all the time.If you give the abuse, get a steel jack [try supercheap] The best Brand lightweight jackstands to use are "pinus radiata" , I've got a mate who gets them from Tranzit New Zealand, they are open all hours [especially midnight]and cheap [free].seriously though, use wooden blocks if you can get decent ones,They don't damage the underside like the steel ones do! The WOF Nazis are jumping down on sh*t like bent sills etc.

send an email to [email protected] and try to get a part #. then use this # with either Pioneer or Segedin Trick & Auto

HOW DO YOU WIRE THEM IN SERIES? I assume the heaters are wired in parallel, [they are four wire sensors] & the O2 sensors generate volts [to be read dy the DME] Wouldn't it be the same as [for example] stacking two 1.5 volt batteries in series to get 3volts? The DME would automatically 'think' the engine is running too rich, & try and lean it out. Please correct me if I'm wrong [before I install a Holley Flooding System Haha!] Cheers KERRY

BIG BORE it and remove the cat Just remember you are one that is gonna put up with the noise. I'm doing a complete 328 twin exhaust sway on my 320 [including tube headers]right now. Remember INTAKE,COMPRESSION,& EXHAUST are all bedpartners with the CAMSHAFT. I remember years ago seeing a MUFFLER test [brand deleted] done on a dyno. The engine made more horsepower with the mufflers [on a race engine]."The Secret", The muffler people had a special RACE CAMSHAFT with longer exhaust duration,[it required backpressure of the muffler to maintain cylinder pressure] HOT CAMS are the same, they actually lower cylinder pressure [thats why hot engines require higher static compression] at low RPM a engine breathes in a series of gulps, at high RPM its air speed [hence the longer duration cams etc] BMW went to the VANOS to reduce camshaft duration and overlap [for low down power & smog reasons]then retarded the intake at high rpm to regain top end power [non Vanos cams are hotter than vanos,but the Vanos has a wider 'power band'] I wouldn't up the compression at all, It's borderline on our pump gas as it is.When BMW built the 2.8 engine they strangled the engine back with a 2 litre intake [why], to build torque down low. The 2.8 makes 193 hp@5500 yours makes 194hp@5900[about the same, but at lower RPM] the 2.8 makes 206ft/lb's@3950 where your motor makes 180ft/lb's@4750. BMW then upped the gear ratio at the diff. If I was building a street-racer, I'd go for the Torque anyday. Also why rebuild your engine unless the compression is way down.[i've seen 250,000 km engines apart with no 'lip in the bore', a simple re-ring and a valve job is all thats needed]

Yeah, I was told that by my EFI [racing guru] about 10mins ago.In simpleton terms he said the O2 sends a lean or richen signal [command] to the DME having two sensors wired parallel could cancel each other out [we're talking millivolts here] on a Honda there are two banks of injectors and two O2 sensors [one each] The fun starts when the O2 sensors are wired diagonally [by a DIY expert] Thanks for your reply KERRY

Yep! I have [on a Chevy] They are reusable. ARP make them for BMW, google "Summit Racing" in the states [they are a large mail order house, I use them regularly] The only problem I've had with studs ,Is clearance when lifting a cylinder head over them [A problem with V engines, a slanter wil be similar] In my corvette I have to pull the engine to lift a head off.Otherwise the advantages outweigh the headaches

Knowledge Wanted! I'm fitting a complete 1996 E36 M52 [328] exhaust system to my 320 E36 coupe, I inherited USA M3 tube exhaust headers with the swap [Now my Question] The 320 has a single O2 sensor in the system just in front of the Cat-Converter, The 328 has twin O2 sensors in the headers [both are using Siemens electronics, both have the same colour code wiring on the sensors] Can the Twin sensors be wired together [parallel] and spliced into the original harness [and still work correctly?] O2 sensors convert to "millivolts" not amps so I assume they can be wired together parallel[not in series] I can use one sensor [which one, front or rear]& plugging the hole,is more hassle to me,than splicing the loom. Any solutions are appreciated [quickly before I revert back to being a 'Carb & Points Moron'] Thanks Kerry

Within a budget, I'd try and get more air thru it to make more power.[Filter,Exhausts Etc]chips only work well if you lift the rev limit [and are prepared to rev it]the engine has a Air flow meter and O2 sensor so it monitors itself. Your motor makes 194hp [vanos 198hp] Non Vanos use dual valve springs,Longer duration higher lift cams [unfortunately thicker valve stems] shorter conrods,lower compression 10:1 vs 10.5:1 194 hp out of a stock,smogged,unleaded fueled,very tractable-user friendly engine is nothing to sneeze at [thats 77.6 hp/litre]It is on par with a $12000.00 pre-crossflow ford race engine [per litre anyway] Spend your money on handling [You get more driver results than spending money on the engine]

Build a RACE-CAR from a Coupe,One Race Seat only [be totally Selfish and Self Indulgent]

A Litre? Are you still getting Air in the fluid? Are you sure it's not mechanical? Otherwise check the cylinders [both] & when you bleed it put grease around the bleed screw to stop air sucking back.[most clutches can be bled by gravity]

I'll have one available in a week from a 70k E36, [i'm doing a manual swap] Email me at [email protected] Kerry

Give the Guy a break, at least he didn't put the wing on backwards! Have a look at what these Morons are doing in the States Uh Forgot, Check out the Eyebrows on the Taillights of the blue car [she's a piece of work, aint it?]

I try and confuse people when I TXT a reply, I Use English. I notice the the little box on the botton left of this page ["ENGLISH"]must be faulty, whenever I click onto it, it doesn't decipher TXT into English

I'm Doing One Right Now! My Swap is including a M50 to M52 engine swap ,2.8 twin exhausts,Headers,Diff , Engine loom, Twin pumps. I' m doing my swap in the driveway [garage is too full of racecar & parts] You'll need a trolley jack ,Good Jack Stands,Go and buy some TORX Sockets [& Bits] If you are competent enough to pull an engine, you should be able to tackle a conversion. The hardest part for me was removing the Auto , So I sold it to a friend who is pulling it out for me [still waiting for my car to come back] On Bimmerforums They have a Thread [22 pages]Dedicated to E36 Manual Conversions, The Yanks are Wankers,18 of those pages are about wiring the "starter inhibiter" so the cruise contol still works, And wiring the Reverse lights. I know where there is an E36 Manual Conversion Right now if you are stuck for one,[Don't try and Hybrid one out of another model BMW, unless its a "Group A" Dog-Box] If you wan't any help contact me via email [ [email protected] ] & I'll pass on my phone number to you! The Guys Here at Bimmersport have been great help [& Fun] most problems I've occured have been answered on this site or by phoning a member of this forum. Remember SYNCROSMASH is the only way to go........Kerry Attached is a pic of my coupe [that is begging for me to fit a Rollcage]

I should put a roundel on the vette [a bmw repower that uses more chevy bits than most conversions]

Hey Andrew , I've got a new training method [smack Gus on the side of the head until he jumps] tell him you always hit the steering Arms perpendicular to the Taper of the ball joint [not down it] Use the violence method for a subtle comparison[it might work,Haha]

Well done Gus, it looks like you were smashing down on the castle nut/or thread. When I get an E30 racer I want you as a mechanic,[for the other teams] Looks like my charge-out rate as a 1st class hammer swinger was too cheap!

It's a 1970 Chrome bumper, Big block Roadster [race car] top speed 276 kph

It's an E 2.7 M20, Simon bought it to flog the box for his E30 [but ended up with a E30 conversion] Even if it doesn't sell the education is worth it! [Nah F**k the Education, the entertainment was worth it] specially Gus & Sparkle, I reckon I owe you guys a beer for that first class humor. Hey Brent I'm still chasing up that other conversion I was telling you about! Keep Havin' Fun Boys. . . . .Kerry

They make a good urethane [holds the front on my Corvette at over 270kph] you're in the same Town as me, so if you need a Hand give me an email & we can tee up a time. [i've fitted a few kits before,+ I'm interested in looking at your kit]

the hammer method has worked for me on my own car..just not on andys for some strange reason. my bad. They double-up as a useful tool for self defence ,especially with Irate owners.[They never seem to understand the merits of taking to their prized possession with a hammer]

140,000 on the clock, The car is still drivable. It will certainly fit a Vanos E36. you will have to wire in the reverse light switch, And bypass the inhibitor switch [whereas in My swap "Vanos to Vanos", I switched complete engine looms to fix a couple of other problems that were plaguing me before the conversion]

Are the bumpers Fibreglass or urethane?? There are some good adhesives on the market, just get the right ones Go to Bostik in Burrows street, or Link-up in Barbery street [They have probably forgotten more, than we will ever know on adhesives]

i do like whacking tie rod/control arm ends though Have You got some sort of "Ball Joint Fetish"? Seriously though , The Fork type Removers end up splitting the rubbers. I invested in a rather heavy copper [persuader] Hammer $1.00 from harbour-freight in USA. It works better tha any remover I've used [charge out rate: Hammer $1.00. Knowing How to Swing it $30.00]