Silver Fox

No, that won't fit will it? must be large case as you said.

Large case or Medium? Should fit your E30, just need to swap the back plate and output shafts. Diffs from E28, E24, E23 and E30 are all the same fitting and interchangeable, just need to swap the above to get to fit.

Open the boot and remove the side covers, right in front of you, 2 x 13mm nuts each side. I've done three rear subframe rebushes now and have found it relatively easy to press the bushes out in a small hydraulic press. Trick is not to rush it, let the press push the rubber out slowly, stops you from ripping the centre of the bush out.

You are right, it is for fine tuning, due to changes in timing when you get the head planed etc, also possible slight variations in belt length and wear in the engine. I was told by a wise man that if you lock the cam in place and tension the belt on the right side as you look at it from the front, using the play in the sprocket, then tension the other side using the tensioner, and lock it up you should be right. Am I close Rusty Nuts?

To do it properly there is a tool to fit over the square section on the cam just in front of the first lobe. This locks the cam in position. Then you put a pin in the block at the bottom back on the passengers side into the flywheel which locks the crank in TDC. I've made up a tool myself, but I believe that if you do as above you can do it successfully.

OK, it shouldn't move on it's own, but to be safe, set the front crank pulley to TDC, there's an arrow on the block at about 1 o'clock about 15mm from the pulley, rotate the pulley untill the tooth with the small notch on it lines with the arrow, this tooth is the 6th one past the missing teeth on the pulley. The cam sprocket has an arrow also, as well as a notch near the teeth. This should line with the notch in the top of the cam cover housing. If it's pointing to the bottom, rotate the motor thru 360 to get it to the top. At this stage you should find that the square part on the front of the cam just inside the head should be flat across the top, and if you put a straight edge across it and measure down to the side of the head on each side it should be the same. Make sense?

Choice, that's a real road trip.

welcome, looks like a nice car, 328 is priced well, should sell I'd think, good luck.

Hi, if you're just replacing the belt it's fairly straight foward. It's easiest to remove the fan shroud and fan first, remember fan is anticlock thread. 30mm? remove the distributor cover, and rotor, 3 x 8mm bolts, 3 x 3mm allen keys losen the alternator belt and remove fan pulley, 4 x 10mm bolts remove bottom pulley from front of crank, 6 x 13mm bolts remove top then bottom front covers, 9 x 10mm bolts losen cam tensioner, 13 mm nut remove old belt, fit new belt without moving cam or crank, tension belt till you can twist it 90 degrees with your fingers on the tensioner side, and then tighten the tensioner, Replace is reverse. You may want to replace the water pump while you have the front off? Easy eh, just done one today. Actually had to do the whole headgasket bit as well, but it's going again.

Keep it under 2.0l, and single turbo and you can run SS2000 class. There's one there already.

Ollie, thought this was spares for the racecar? You will need the panels as soon as you sell them, Murphy's law. You should chuck them in a corner somewhere, that way you know you'll never need them.

Regular servicing, don't overheat, and they'll serve you well.

Told you so

If you're talking about the one on trademe at the moment, it all depends on how many want it. I'd say around 1500 to 2000 maybe? Looks the goods, good luck.

Most interesting link and story "Nuts". By the way, how is the car coming Andrew?

Welcome, with a name like that I expected you to be in the Chopper, not a Commodore?

I'm guessing it's this lot http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-148377947.htm

Where abouts?

Back on Trademe calling himself Vertica, chasing this car. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=146254013

I have thanks Glenn.

Set it to the middle, the Motronic takes over from there.

I think he's on the Shore. Looking for a 318 are you Mark?

That explains why his bid's been removed from the trademe M3 racecar auction.

Bottlecaps should be 14's for the E30, worth around $80 to $100 if you can find a buyer, seen them sit on Tme for weeks and not go at $50 and less tho. Weaves, if in good cond may still go for up to $600, but demand's not so high now the race boys have got some options, they may be on their way down a bit I think, maybe to around the $400 to $500 mark?

Tell him to see Glenn at Botanymotorworx, he's got one.