*Glenn*

I suggest you get it scanned first and go from there

Yes oil leaks are common. From many areas. You need to clean off and recheck.

The guys they pulled up did have a "look" about them Surprised they dont have 50 calliber's mounted on them

Saw it yesterday coming back from the air port. A new, black Nissan Patrol with roof racks. They had pulled up a ricer, looked quite impressive with all its lights flashing. Didnt have my camera Any one else seen it ?

Resleeve & rekit master cylinder or fit a new master cylinder. There is no fluid in the booster. If its leaking down the front of the booster, its coming from the master cylinder.

There must be a BMW service agent in Ahbu Dahbe....surely ? It really needs to be scanned first I would guess at crankshaft position sensor

The reason that they make a safe tool is because there are negative & positve pins and data line pins...get it wrong...you wont blow a fuse you'll do damage. Secondly... if you were doing a "proper" service, you would be using a scanner to check data and fault codes anyway

Its curious that BMW and other diagnostic tool companies make special "safe" tools to do this with. Why dont they give their technicians hairclips or pieces of wire ??.... the answer... BECAUSE THEY'RE NOT STUPID

Very good... well done Mark

It means inspection 1 or II due by time. You check brake fluid & coolant with the appropriate tools...which you probably wont have. And do a standard service. Check the brakes, steering and suspension. There is a bit more to it though if you do as per OEM schedule though. It realy depends on what was done last time & by whom.

Just go new or 2nd hand

Maybe fuel pressure regulator, CCV or a faulty coil

A Getrag 250 will do the trick...About $1200-$1500. Check with Ray @ HELLBM thats about the price for a whole manual conversion kit. Did you not see my manual conversion thread in Projects ?

Unbolt and move the alternator then... I dont have TIS here at home to check. Whats the chassis #... I might be going in tomorrow. There is more to this than you might realise

Disconnect the battery and remove the wiring.. its a bitch without a hoist, but thats what you need to do

A copy of TIS & ETK would help more. I have the discs if you would like a copy I can send them down if you will please return them

The Haines manual will help...but read it carefully. To do the job properly you will need 2 special tools. One to lock the flywheel at TDC..the other to set the camshaft correctly. Idle can be effected if these tools are not used. Alot do this job without them..however to do it correctly it should be done with these tools. Hope you have a good selection of tools.

Just a little curious... is it always the same police woman ??

Thats exactly what I was hoping this thread was not going to be ?? Weve had enough of those Sorry you got pinged... what made you a target ??

Sorry...thats a fail... If the police are doing their job.. and you got pinged... has to be a + for the police Go legal and you'll have no problem

Doesnt work for me either....just kept loading for ages

Good score Dave

We all know where the engines going to end up then.. bhagdag something

So you ended up owning it Dave ??

You should be changing, cambelt, check tensioner & idlers, water pump, thermostat, camshaft, rocker arms, hydraulic lifters and replacing the sump gasket. Most M40 cams fail because of faulty sump gaskets. The oil pick up gallery for the oil pump is a part of the sump. Airated oil does not lubricate an engine properly and wont let the lifters pump up properly.