*Glenn*

Hi there Chris. Would your mate be interested in doing some fabrication work on my manifolds ?? I'm doing a M30 swap at the moment. Check the thread under "My E30 335cc project" I have beer & money ...but I'll pass on the BJ or does that mean "beer & a joke" ??? Cheers Glenn

You might have to modify your mounting brackets though. To encapture them you have to weld a 100mm inside diameter piece of pipe onto the bracket above the mount 37mm deep. That will give you 5mm clearance around the mount and only allow the engine to move forward 5mm under braking. I'll post pictures after I've made them. I had the profiles all cut yesterday and will bend and weld them up next week. Yes the mounts are cheap. I've gone for the E46, E39 M54 type mount now. The V8 ones are a bit bigger and fowl on the chassis.

I have a full set of front and rear black leather seats... no rips, would need a bit of colour & some leather oil. Excellent door cards too, all out of a facelift coupe.

You could try. But its best just to replace it. Then you will know its right. Also make sure that you have water flow through both hoses. Sometimes sedement blocks them.

10 thous or .25 mm.. Engine dead cold. Between the valve and accentric adjuster. I'm presuming your asking for your 1990 325 I. There is a proceedure. Do it wrong and it'll run worse. Adjustment must be done on the back of the cam lobe on the base circle.

Yes it is. Ive got 10mm in the front and rear and about 12mm between the sump and steering rack. I tried lowering the rack down 10mm but that makes the steering coupling too short. I might alter the firewall slightly to give me a bit more. Just need to check inside so that I still have brake pushrod and heater box clearance. I'd still like to have a bit more room up front. I can take about 3mm of the front pulley because the air con belt doesnt use the whole pulley Vee. Anyone else here thats done this and can help with a little advice... would be appreciated. Ive checked the other forums, but no one gives you actual measurements. I might actually be ok as it is...just not sure. Cheers Glenn

Just playing round with all the clearances at the moment and looking at all the options while I'm getting the engine mount brackets cut out for me by Rex @ Aquacut. When I'm happy with all the clearances I'll weld them up. I'll post some more pictures as I go. Anyone have some critiscism or suggestions please feel free Cheers Glenn

Gettin there Been at work since 3.00 this morning Motor and gearbox are in the hole....sh*t its a tight fit...now the critical alignment starts Not much room to move so this has to be dead accurate. Ive been able to drop the rack down by 10mm which helps. Ive got about 15mm from the crank pulley to the radiator. I think that will be enough, because I'm going to encapture the engine mounts to stop movement and make up reaction rods from the bell housing back to the custom gearbox cross member. Will put some pictures up Monday... I have to go out this arvo.... interupting all the fun More to come Cheers Glenn

So does about 30 other people in Auckland New they are about $700

Synchronising is easy... its the rest thats going to create havock... oil cooler, hydralic brake booster system, suspension, manifolds, engine mounts, plenum chamber, CAI, Ignition system and the list goes on ....and on...and on I'm going to try and get the Keihin's Not many bike wreckers are willing to split them up

Happy Birthday Shell From Glenn & the team @ Botany Motor Worx

Well things are now on the go I pick up a 635 CSI motor (10:1 comp) today and the getrag 260/5. I have the E32 sump & oil pump and the mock up cars already for the fun to begin. All unnessary brackets & mounts removed from the mock up. Hydraulic boosters all in place and I also get the rest of the system today...resevoir, accumulator and pressure regulator. Next step is to make up the engine mount brackets (using E39 encaptured V8 mounts) encapturing these mounts is necessary to prevent engine moving around under acceloration & braking (very close tolerances), do the hydraulic brake, power steering & oil cooler hoses, mount and plumb up the E30 oil cooler and then on with the extractors and the manifold for the 6 X 40mm R1 Yamaha carburettors. I'll post up some progress pictures once the engine & box is in. This is all going to be quite different to what others have done before me, so I'll keep it all documented and keep the pictures coming. I've also changed the thread topic to 335cc project, cc =carburettored coupe Cheers Glenn

Can anyone tell me where I can buy, or does anyone have a Link ignition only ECU. Link dont make them anymore. It can be a crank or camshaft sensored system, I dont mind which one. Thanks Glenn

So his name was Dick Flicker ????

Why is it, that when you are trying to be helpfull, serious & sensible you get labeled as being an "oldie" ?? Will and I arent old.......well, Will might be....just a little Seriously though, some of the things that some of you guys do with your cars is down right dangerous and stupid. Lowering a car safely and doing it properly will give you more of a rush than being scared to drive it near a cop. We do have laws and we must obey by them...thats called living in a structured society. The laws are only put in place for safety. If our roads were sheets of flat glass, height wouldnt be a problem. I'm classed as an "oldie" by some. Yet I have a fast, lowered car (75mm off the deck & a "cert") If you took the time to talk to some of the "oldies" seriously, you would find that they would only be too happy to help you with your problems and guide you in the "right" direction. Safety on our roads is the priority and what this forum supports If you want help with a project, or you want to legaly lower your car properly, there are plenty here who are willing to help. We have some great sponsors in here and alot of very knowledgeable people who can give you the "right" advice. As for "taking the piss" out of some of you.....with some of the stupid things you ask about or do... well think about it....you deserve all you get. Glenn BTW Will... I really enjoy going "fishing" with you

I stand corrected... I had other things on my plate here when I replied. I didnt read it properly either. I'll edit my post. Its probably still not going to fix the problem though. The rest of my thread still stands...you must scan it and fix any faults before going any further. Cheers Glenn PS: I'm allowed "blonde moments" real busy here at work... was thinking E46...all in the throttle body. M50,M52 all have seperate idle control motors that react to load. A faulty idle controller can also take down the AFM and vice versa. Through the DME, engine load and cold starting is compensated for by the idle control motor...add load, lights, power steer etc...brings the idle up to compensate. The load signal also is used for auto trans operation.

The colour of the fluid does not make it wrong. Its only wrong if its the wrong spec. Some guys only know what they have been taught at the dealerships. And they might only distinguish by colour. There is also a difference between G3 and G3 full synthetic... they are both the same colour too. It just might be prudent to change it for peace of mind. Either use genuine or G3 full synthetic.....up to you. I'd also change gearbox oil, diff oil, antifreeze & brake fluid as well. Then you at least know where you are with it. Cheers Glenn

I was thinking the same when I wrote that Richard....lol

Talk to our suspension sponsor, Keith @ H&R before you do this. Get it right with the right gear. You'll probably need to shorten your shocks too, with new bump stops and rear shock mounts.

Ooops I didnt read the question properly I see you can scan it and its giving you faults.....well theres your answer Fix those first and you should be right What scanner was it ?? and did it identify your engine correctly ??.. you must be able to drive the car with the scanner to check AFM operation

Did you wire in the diagnostic socket when you did the conversion ???...because that will make it alot easier And are all the components used for the conversion for this engine?? If you have the diagnostic socket......scan it before you start fiddling AFM's will not usually come up as a fault code unless they dont work at all...and then the motor doesnt go. KGH should be about 12 @ idle and approx 450 under full load with smooth readings through the throttle range Oxygen sensors will also give you the problem you are describing Check fuel pressure too. FPR may not be working. Should be 2.5 bar with vacuum, 3.0 bar without vacuum Check TPS operation and temp sender unit readings .... this is easy to do if you can use a scanner on it Compare temp readings at the point of the sender unit with a infa red temp tool I might also add...when doing these types of conversions...always wire in the diagnostic socket, make sure you buy the engine wiring harness complete with the engine. It makes things so much easier when you have problems like this. Cheers Glenn Also make sure that if the car is manual, you are using a manual DME or vice versa

+1.......as I said before...."GET IT SCANNED" and stop worrying about it. No one can help you with this except a mechanic with a scanner and a "brain".

I might also add...your mechanic needs educating.

ATF is the correct fluid, we use ELF G3 Full synthetic Only cars with hydraulic suspension or hydraulic brake boosters need special oil

I have one