BMRBOI

Afternoon all, Anybody know anyone in Rotorua who can ally weld? Individuals or companies, i need to weld a lug onto my sump pan and oil filter housing so i can attach my oil cooler. Also advice on cleaning the aluminium up to ensure a clean weld (chemicals, wire brush etc). Thanks Niroy

Haha yeah, especially when he sees all this bright orange throughout the car!

Bit of an update. Front end suspension installed. Every bush has been replaced now i think. Its pretty intense the amount of work i have done to this car Already. G/box is on the new engine. it all seemed to go together fine. I hope the starter motor will work, thats the only thing im really worried about in that area. One picture i forgot to take is the height of the new throwout bearing comparing to the e30 325i one and the e36 325i one. Enjoy

My stamps at the top side of my diff, its pretty faded though. The other way is to just spin one side, both sides should move in the same dirrection. The LSD will also have a ratio tag on it and will start with the letter "S". If you are unsure, buy your diff off someone from here. Chances are you will end up with an LSD.

Irontite! my m50 ran on that stuff for like a year! Should have seen the engine when i pulled it apart, coolant sludge everywhere. Thats dissapointing your project finished that way! I would be so gutted if my new M50 done the same thing.

Wasn’t the most productive weekend, but I did get things done! The bolts I ordered to do the crank bracket didn’t turn up on Saturday so I couldn’t put my engine together which is now holding my progress up. Welded the oil pump nut on and did the rear crank seal on the engine. Pieced the rear subframe back together and it looks pretty good. Filled the lsd up with redline diff oil as well, hopefully it works well. Pictures are of: • Lemforder trailing arm bushes with Polyurethane limiter spacers. • Lemforder lower trailing arm bush. • New upper trailing arm bushes • Rear subframe with camber arms and lsd diff • Rear Sachs shock with Ruff top hat. • G/box shifter bushes replaced, picture showing the difference between the old shifter and new short shifter. • Repainted crossmember • Front control arms with Meyle heavy duty ball joints, new centre joints and derlin offset cabs The rear subframe feels really stiff, I cant wait to take it out for a drive.

Feeew, BMW Auckland has them! Hopefully have them here by tomorrow.

Hey guys, posted this on my project build. My issue is im swapping an M50 525i engine into my 325i. That means i have to change the oil pan, pickup and baffle over to the 525i engine. The 525i engine does not have a mounting bracket for the e36 oil pickup. If i undo the bolts to attach the bracket then i will have to replace them as they are stretch bolts. Any ideas? The top picture is the 325i engine with the bracket. The bottom pic is the 525i engine with the 325i pickup but no support bracket. Thanks

Im back now, i wish the car was finished by now but some things we dont have control over. Not much has been done since my last post. I have cleaned up the cross- member and painted it, have painted the engine mounts and also the control arms. Will get some pics on tomorrow when the paint dries. I have all-most finished swapping all the engine parts over needed to place the 525i engine into the 325i. I have come across one major issue. On the 325i engine there is a mount attached to a crank bracket which attaches to the oil feeder pipe. On the 525i this doesnt exist. My problem is that the crank bracket bolts are stretch type and if i remove them ill have to hunt down some more. Any ideas?

I have a starter motor from my m5025b if that fits. Took it out as im using the m20 starter for my m20 flywheel conversion. According to realoem the one i have is 12411740379.

Hey guys need these things. Intake air pipe (the one which feeds into the bottom of the intake). Headlight adjusters x 4. (The plastic screw in things, also the screws). Earth cable (Connects to the engine mount) Wheel jack plugs Need 3 but four i will take. (That gunmetal grey colour). Contact me on 0276678961 or pm Thanks Niroy

Yeah I may have to! The other fluid i was looking into was the Mobil 1 stuff!

Morning all, not much of a picture update today. But progress has been made. Engine is out, and im in the process of cleaning the g/box, cross member etc. Might as well since everything is already out. I was lucky that i pulled the engine and g/box out as one, made it really easy to get to all the bell housing bolts and to the starter motor. (Big ups to everyone who can change a clutch under the car while lying on the floor!) Its a shame that i am away in Hamilton for the rest of the week and part of next week, that just slows my process down! I still havent really determined where the origin of the oil leak on the old motor was coming from. It looked like it started around the icv, but there isnt much in the way of oil hoses (a breather maybe). It could have possibly just been the oil filter housing (although i did replace its gasket a month back) or even a combination of the oil pan also. Anyone have any ideas on what oil to run in the g/box? I was going to run Redline D4 ATF, any thoughts or recommendations?

Sorted Thanks to Gavin

Hi guys wondering if anyone has one of these # 21511204525 e21 throwout bearing 30mm tall. Will be using it for my m20 flywheel conversion. Or any place which will sell them. apart from bnt $136 ouch. Cheers

My new clutch kit. Pretty blue! Havent found anyone who has used this combination with the m20 323 flywheel on an m50 so it will be interesting.

Yeah i will give it a crack tomorrow hopefully! Yeah the subframe is pretty easy for me. my rear trailing arms are getting the new bushes pressed in and i will have them back next week to reinstall. Yeah thats the throwout bearing, i think bnt can get one for me. Over $100 bucks tho, wondering if it would be cheaper to lengthen the slave cylinder if it doesnt engage right.

Been stripping the car down over the week. Everything seems to be coming along well, apart from the front left brake cailper bolts seem to be on very tight. I dont understand why they are done up so tight, i cant even undo them with my rattle gun. Any ideas of undoing them? Oh and i got my clutch today, it is from a m20 325i (heavy duty carbon kevlar). The only thing im wondering is whether i should try and get hold of a e21 thow out bearing? or should i just run with the m20 325i one?

The old motor is tired, has a slight headgasket leak and now has developed an oil leak. It has also done high kms. So i think the best option for me is to just replace it.

Thanks guys for the replies!, i like the idea of a standard looking bmw which packs a punch. Will try keep this page up to date.

Hi guys so I finally decided to put my e36 build on Bimmersport. I did the sub frame reinforcement last summer, but did not fully freshen up the back end as I started a new job and needed the car going. So basically I am picking up from where i left off. My aim is to build this car as a daily driver, which I can take to the track and enjoy! I have been collecting all my parts over the last 6 months. It’s amazing of all the things you can add into the build as you think away. A lot of this stuff will be a first for me, so any feedback or guidance would be helpful. So… what I have done so far: Engine KnN Cold air intake and air box AC delete 16†electric fan and controller with temp Suspension & Subframe Derlin offset caster bushes for front control arms M3 evo 23.3mm sway bar and drop links Sachs sporting suspension and springs Ultra racing front and rear strut braces Ruff rear shock mounts and reinforcement plates Ruff subframe bush kit & oem subframe diff bush Reinforced subframe with m3 plates welded to chassis Reinforced swaybar mounts on subframe carrier Lemforder trailing arm bushes M-spec 18mm sway bar Other M-sport steering wheel Sports gear knob M-sport tail lights Frosted indicators on front Panasonic /JVC sound install Recovered roof lining and rear parcel tray 18x8 replica BMW wheels What I aim to do Engine Install m50 with low kms engine Sump gasket and weld oil pump nut Install metal impeller water pump, thermostat (80º) and housing Rear crank seal Oil cooler setup weld lugs onto filter housing for lines M20 flywheel, starter motor, clutch and e21 throughout bearing Install M3 engine and gearbox mounts Install drive shaft donut Brakes Install goodridge lines Install genuine bmw pads Install rear rotors and calipers with e36 328i items Motul 5.1 fluid Suspension & Subframe Install steering rack limiters Install new tie rods Install meyle heavy duty ball joints Install new centre joints Install SPC camber plates Install rear camber arms Install rear trailing arm limiters Install 3.15 lsd and new diff bushes Cosmetic Replace bonnet Replace nose cone Replace front bumper (motorsport) Other Remap ECU Replace faulty body control module and rear window switch. Compulsory pictures :bounce:

My e36 does this. i got told it was somthing to do with the spark plugs (change them to resistor ones or somthing).. not sure if that is true.

Sweet, thanks. I just wanted to cover my loose ends before i make my big order lollies.

anyone else want to help. I really need to know what rear seals to replace so i can add it to my order...

hey mate, i was once apon a time looking to do this aswell. Would love to see how it pans out. I have an injector controller unit and injector block if your interested.