will

Since the beach Graham thinks his e30 is a 4x4....

Yes, you will need a box that has the mounting holes for those sensors.

The idea behind a dual master cylinder was to give some assurance that you would have brakes to at least 2 wheels if one circuit was damaged. Most earlier cars had single cylinders braking all 4 wheels, but, if one wheel cylinder failed, you had no brakes. In the remote booser system, you use a single cylinder at the pedal which goes to the remote booster. The input side of the booster has the single slave cylinder which is activated by the cylinder at the pedal. On the other side of the booster, you simply put the cylinder you want to use to activate the brakes, making sure that the stroke of the booster is sufficient to fully activate this master cylinder!!! Some early e30's had master cylinders with differing bores for each circuit. The effect of this was to provide differing braking efforts to the individual circuits. Thankfully, they have abandoned this practice now... was a pain in the butt as you couldn't get kits for them, only a complete master cylinder which was appropriately priced to make the $tealer wealthy!! So you can quite comfortably run a single master cylinder to operate your brakes, you will just have to plumb in all the lines and ensure that the master cylinder is properly sized to deal with the slave cylinders.

HB young fella..

Just 325iS had 5 stud. Would have been fitted with sump guard but they are often removed. It should have long range tank. Some would have had LSD but that was a factory option and seldom fitted to autos, and, being a 4door, I would doubt it. Would probably be a full house as most SA 325's were so should have leather recaros, OBC, A/C, cruise control, sunroof etc.

not noises from your 4WD system you installed for the 90 mile beach hop??

Early Alfas had remote ones too, that is what I put in the Anglebox.

Heiffel and me have decided that your idiot side is due to a ginge blonde hormone you have inside you somewhere..

What you have removed is the electric locking solenoid. There is a U shaped plate that holds the actual key lock mechanism onto the door. You will need to reach up into the door and remove this U plate in order to remove the lock mechanism. This mechanism triggers an electrical contact which activates the dead lock mechanism, so removing it should release the deadlock. You can also disconnect the plug in the door to this switch which should also release the deadlock. If it doesn't release it, you have a problem with your central lock module. I will try to find a loose lock mechanism and U plate and post a pic up for you to show you what a complete working one should look like. Will edit.. found mechanism, the arrow points to the spring that is part of the deadlock mechanism. This breaks off and stops the mechanism releasing or working. The U plate is next to the mechanism. I use a long screwdriver through one of the holes in the door frame to prise it loose.

Right, 'nuff of this.... new name... gomtorr

Injectors should tick, not buzz, that's for beez, so if they are beezing, bin them.

Would help if you stated M20 or M40 motor.

Glenn, Gus has a shrick? cam, he would have to be careful he doesn't set clearances too tight. Not sure what cam it is though. Gus, start the car in the dark, pref pitch black inside garage, and look for spark tracking, it will be very obvious. The other thing is to check that your injectors are getting a constant signal to fire, use a long screwdriver or piece of thin rigid tube, hold it against each injector body while the car is running and listen on the other end for a regular tick as it fires. Whatever you do, don't let Kerry near, after all he is used to working on large american things that have no finesse, just need 14lb sledge hammer, 26"crescent (american micrometer) and gas axe to fix, adjust, fine tune etc..

If possible jack it up in the front of the car when bleeding it, helps get the air out. Also, drilling a small hole at the top of the thermostat plate helps with getting rid of the airlocking. Heater must be on as chris says.

You ever seen the ashes glowing red in a fire??? That sort of ash..

ok, found one out of motronic 1.3 but get much the same as you do, get a sharp dip not long after opening it.

he's not ginge, he's ash blonde..

motronic 1.1 fires the injectors in 3's prob the same in 1.3. so 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 fire together. I would think the afm would rise steadily not jerky like you describe. Will attempt to measure one here and see if I get a dip.

my twin brother.... we are retards....

E30 leads are copper, the plug cap and dizzy cap are the supression bits, so length of lead has no effect on resistance. The complete plug leads should measure no more than 6K if my memory serves me correctly. The HT lead from coil to dizzy reads a lot lower than that, (again caps provide the suppression, lead is copper) can't remember exact maximum though. Will

Anything can be made to fit, pretty sure there will be examples around. If they can fit a v12 into an e30, the v8 into an e36 will be child's play. And if you are battling to get it to fit, just get Gus with his hammer and talk wrench

Not just two, had a whole houseful last week-end. (Dogs still deaf from heavy metal/rock at maximum dB)

I assume the wire coming from one of the HT leads is the signal for the tach, as this is how my automotive multimeter can measure RPM as well. Correct I also assume the pickup at the toothed wheel is for ignition timing retarding and advancing spark. Correct, it senses the engine speed and tdc mark and the computer sets the timing from the signals it gets. Any idea's on what the problem could be? i can get access to a reset/diagnostic tool. I would first look for air leaks into the intake. Did you correctly seat the oil drain tube between the manifold and the block and put the O seal at the top of the tube? Tach problem could be the plug connecting the tach lead to the main loom isn't properly assembled... check plugs under the diagnostic plug for proper connection. There is also another circular plug under the intake manifold just ahead of the starter that is famous for making a bad connection, water gets into it and corrodes the contacts resulting in all sorts of electrical faults. I normally cut it out when I find problems with it and solder the wires together using heatshrink tube to waterproof the wires. hope this helps Will