will

If your name is Eragon, you might survive the wrath of my Dragon when you try to get her broom off her, otherwise keep clear!! (I'm not brave enough.... )

+1.. Hey Tony, we should take out a LARGE life insurance policy on Askan, if he does this and tries to drive it, we will get rich VERY quickly !!

It possibly has something to do with the idling speed. It will open or close according to air temp in the airbox and help stabilise the idling..?? I don't know, my 328 doesn't have it so am speculating. I wouldn't be inclined to remove it. You could try but plug both ends at the manifold and the throttle body and see what happens.. but generally something will go out of kilter if you just remove these bits without proper compensation. You will find that you have probably lost power by fitting a pod filter anyway unless you have designed a proper cold air box around it, It is normally better to put in a K&N replacement panel filer cartridge into the standard airbox. The standard airbox normally flows better than a pod filter and sucks in cold air from the front of the vehicle rather than hot air form the engine bay. Will edited..

Haha, at least when my car is screaming away in extasy, all I have to do to shut it up is turn off the ignition, peace and quiet and NO COMPLAINING!!!! Will

Glenn wants to do something different. We are both old school gits and believe there is no better sound generated than that of six side-by-side ram-tubed carburettors with mouths wide open absolutely screaming for MORE AIR!!!! Better than sex... Will

I have some, but am in Kerikeri, if you are desperate.. Will

Consumption in an auto probably around 10-11 litres/100 in town and around 8.5 on the highway. I only own manual 325s so have added some to my consumption. I get min 450ks on a tank. Might just have crappy pads in causing squeak, Can run on 91 but use 95 if you drive it hard a lot. See Glenn from Botany motor works, he is a member here and really knows his stuff, is in botany downs, address is under his sponsorship of the maintenance forum. Don't know the car without a pic, get him to put a pic up, someone will recognise it. Will

...and brought most of it back to my place attached to your undercarriage....

First try swapping spark plugs around. May be a faulty spark plug. Sometimes spark will track under load and not under gentle driving, check that you don't have a faulty dist cap (cracks, track marks, buggered internal contact on no1..) and check the rotor while you are at it. If this doesn't help, you could have an iffy injector, check that the connection to the injector is good and listen to the injector (if you can get to it, I don't know the 318iS motor very well) by putting a long screwdriver/piece of dowelling/engine stethescope etc on the injector and the other end in your ear and listen for a loud tick and check that all injectors sound the same. If your injector is not giving a solid tick, it may be faulty and not opening properly under load. good luck Will

This coming from someone who had to bum a lift on a certain far north excursion because of ground clearance problems???? Tell them Chris !!!

Hey Gus, Gus Jnr was disappointed you couldn't wish him personally, get back here big fella!

Cake made of the finest mince, we offered him a bottle of Jager but he turned it down. Most unlike his namesake..

Where you going to put the buttons for NOS now??? The other wheel was PERFECT!! Will

If someone deliberately mods their car which make it dangerous like removing springs, or has bags in and then disables the cert requirement that the bags can not be operated while the vehicle is moving, they should be crushed when caught. Cars that havn't had rego or warrant for months, driving on totally bald tyres, same thing. With my fleet I often have a vehicle with rego on hold for ages while I do mods etc, but, before I drive it down the road without rego or warrant, I book it into my warrant place, so, if Mr Plod stops me, I can tell them to call and check that I am in fact on the way to get it warranted so I can get a rego on it. If I get had for it anyway, that is life, I know I should trailer the car down there for a warrant but am willing to take the chance (and the consequences). I don't have any hesitation in driving it unwarranted as I know it is in a warrantable condition. No mercy for wankers who endander my families life... and that goes for drunks and those out of control on drugs and party pills as well! Will

Wash your mouth out!!

100% agree with you Cain, if you can't afford it, leave it alone, the odds are you will be doing it on the cheap and nasty anyway.

They should keep the driver in when they crush it too !!

Some pics with kerb rash circled. On closer examination, only one wheel has deep gouges, the rest are quite shallow, wheel 3 is the best with the marking no more than a rash. Wheel 4 (last pic with tyre on) is the worst with a couple of quite deep marks but is not a big job to repair imo. The pics are high res so you should be able to copy them and zoom in. I am open to offers remembering that they are rims only, the tyres on 2 of the rims are shot. Will Edit... I am just out of Kerikeri which is NZ's largest open air lunatic asylum!

Will dig them all out and take some pics later today maybe. Will

I have a set of Breyton rims lying around, were on my vert but don't like them, prefer the schnitzer wheels. They are kerbed up, some quite deep, but wheels are true, not buckled. No tyres. If there is any interest I will post individual pics. Pic of them on my vert.. Will

The issue is not with 'thin' synthetics, it is what condition the motor is in when switching to synthetics after using mineral oils. Engines run in on standard mineral oils tend to develop bigger tolerances and switching to a full synthetic with a lower viscosity rating can have a negative effect on wear. You will find that manufacturers specify a particular range of suitable oils and recommend that you stick to the chosen one, for this reason. The motor is machined at assembly time to work with a particular range of grades of oil eg 15w40 so switching to one with a lower bottom end eg 5w40, can result in accelerated wear. Just remember that the greatest wear in a motor occurs on startup, so changing to an oil with a 5 viscosity rating after the engine has run itself in on an 'older' oil of 15 viscosity can not be good for the motor. I have tended to use semi-synthetic oils, not full synthetic, on an older motor and made sure that the rating of the oil is no lower than 15w40. I have quite a fleet of older e30's which I drive very hard and have not had problems with failures to date.(touches wood... ) On a newly rebuilt motor I would not hesitate to use full synthetic. These oils have new technology which 'stick' to metal parts ensuring on a coating of oil on metal parts during the critical startup period, and tend not to break down as quickly as mineral oils do over time, and are much better at handling high temperatures. Will

Glenn is going to use the LINK ignition module which will get its signal from the crank sensor, from there he is using individual coils so can fire all six independantly or fire 3 in pairs via wasted spark.

I still love the comment made on another posting.. sort of goes along the lines of spending a lot of money buying what BMW have endeavoured to make "the ultimate driving machine", and then you lot go about spending a lot of time, effort and money making it totally undrivable.. WTF????? Will

I would be doing a rebuild on all brake master/slave cylinders/calipers if I were in your shoes. While they are off use compressed air to blow the lines clean and buy a new set of flexible hoses (pref braided ones) while you are at it. Euro-Italian (forum sponsor)sells them quite cheaply so it is not worth skimping and using the old ones. This way you are guaranteed to get a full charge of spanking new moisture free brake fluid! Old cylinders get corroded from years of nobody bothering to properly flush the brake fluid annually, and the last thing you want is to have a seal burst when you really have to stamp on the brakes when going flat out down the main straight to avoid David who has just parked his car into the armco... (sorry David, couldn't resist a dig.. ) Cost of a hone/resleeve and new rubbers (or new cylinders worst case scenario) is minimal compared to what not stopping could cost. my 2c worth Will

Andrew hasn't managed to activate member access yet, only adv members it seems. He earlier wanted us to play around with it before he opened it up to members, obviously to root out any bugs etc. but that only lasted a day hahaha be patient... Will