MADBMA

thanks guys magically it unlocked when i finished work to drive home, pressed the unlock button on the alarm and it unlocked!! , ive left it unlocked for the night and will take the panel off tomorrow and see if i can sort out the problem. Cheers Brent might hit you up for thoes solinoids, but ill check it all tomorrow and get back to you, think it might be time i gave the old girl some much needed love, ive been neglecting her a bit.

ok guys been awhile since ive been here, ill admit ive kind of let the bma fall to sh*t in that time anyways thought id see if anyone can offer some advise, i dont like giving my car to the mechanics to fix what i can, she hasnt been to a mechanic for a good few years last time was for a clutch job, which if i had the chance would do my self now but anyways enough rambling my problem: car: 1994 E36 318is coupe my door locks have been playing up for awhile now, sometimes central locking works sometimes it doesnt, the drivers side door now will only unlock with the key, not via the alarm central locking system, the passenger side door just started playing up in the last few weeks, sometimes would unlock with central locking sometimes not, but just yesterday the passenger side door didnt want to lock at all, i put my key in it and managed to lock it and what do ya know now it doesnt want to unlock.... being as its locked in the closed position this is a bit of a problem, if i could get the inner panel off i could play around and sort the problem but as you need the door open thats a bit difficult, so was wondering if anyone had any ideas, key wont work on the outside it will only turn to lock the car but not unlock, pulling the handel on the inside gives you false hope, the little lock pops up then goes back down when you release the handle. so any ideas? the only idea that pops to my mind is to destroy the inner door panel to get to it and buy a replacement, but hopefully someone can offer somthing else, im confident enough to fix the problem IF i can get the door open. Cheers.

Write Up!! hope that helps, good luck, i shelled out good money to have it done as i didnt have the tools, if i was in that position again id do it my self. Edit: link didnt work, now ok

has an AFM, spose ill just have to shell out get it scanned and go from there, cheers guys

i thought that scanner only picks things up if your check engine light is up?

i no this subject has been done to death, but i just want your thoughts, ive had a bad idle and hesitation in throttle response at times in my 94 e36 318is for awhile now, today i decided to rip off the intake manifold and clean the idle control valve, didnt have carby cleaner so used CRC. i also took my aftermarket pod filter off and replaced with stock, which seems to have fixed the hesitation problems. im still getting a bad idle thoe, its not a eratic jumping up and down idle it stays at a steady 700rpm but the engines bouncing around everywhere and just sounds really bad, pretty sure that what ever i did has made it worse, ive had no check engine lights up. any help as where to go next would be good, after searching google, i think it comes down to knock sensors, a new idle control valve or the O2 sensors anyone got any thoughts?

dont know bout that, the porirua KFC had 2 writeups in our local rag on dirty practices, a little girl found a peice of chewed chewing gum in her box of chicken in one case!!

i always found strong spirits clear up most colds/flus and that kind of thing, beer makes it worse. whiskey i found the best, just burns all thoes little bugs, youll feel heaps better after the hang over subsides

yeah ks mean nothing, if the engines been looked after you have nothing to worry bout, mines done 230k going better now then when i bought it....

yeah id agree, i had the same problem turned out to be a faulty battery.

i always saw that to mean they would be handing you a wad of cash, folding stuff, rather then a cheque or bank deposit, which i find is always a good incentive for a quick sale.

yeah thats exactly the place i found the headlight buzzer, my mate told me it was the same buzzer so we turned on the lights and just hunted for the sound, a bit harder doing that at over 105kph, could always get his girlfriend to shove her head in his lap and hunt around for where the sounds coming from at thoes speeds thoe i geuss

anyone no how to remove the speed warning buzzer on a nissan cefiro? (not mine a mates) we had a look around and ended up removing the buzzer for the lights but still cant find the buzzer for the speed warning, its driving my mate nuts, it goes off at 105kph, had a long look on google, and i cant really be assed signing up to a cefiro forum to ask them so thought id try my luck on here Cheers in advance guys

4th pic defenitly - very nice

there was a guy selling the full m3 fibreglass kits for the e30 on trademe, cant give ya much more info then that but it has been done, be alot of work thoe, someone here might no of who it was that was selling them as it gained a bit of intrest on here.

the bodykits made for the coupe or the sedan also fit the compact just confirm which one, theres no specfic compact bodykits

Saw a blue one on trademe awhile back was from down christchurch, was sitting on there for a good few months, cant remember the price........

good stuff man welcome to the joys of DIY, www.bimmerdiy.com will be a good friend to you and should answer most of thoes questions up there, as for which oil to use, really up to you, if you no what oils in the car now it pays to stick with one brand, i use penzoil platnium full synthetic and love the stuff, and i think you need 6 litres for a 323 double check that thoe.

im using shell 95 at the mo just to get the ferrari cars used to use bp 98 but found that the extra cost didnt really make it worthwhile so gone back to 95/96 dont mind to much where i get it from but im another one that doesnt like mobil.

Random does make me hungry for chicken thoe

its an E46 thoe, still the same deal? ground No.7 point?

yeah seriously find your self someone else to do your services, that oil must be a new world brand or somthing, basically refined old crap, i would recomend a semi or full synthetic for your newer engine, i use penzoil platnium full synethtic in mine, made a huge difference when i changed to it, car runs smoother. and charging $30 to reset your lights is a ripoff, it takes them less then 20 seconds, most places i know will just reset it for free.

do it yourself, theres a write up in the tutorials just dont use the glue stated as its not heat resistant, use kwik grip instead, wish someone would change that.

from my understanding you dont do any heavy breaking for awhile, you need to get a good surface going first, nice easy breaking to slowly bed them in, if the braking is totaly useless maybe you stuffed up with the bleeding and theres a bit of air still in the system, just my 2 cents

its a sad day, damn that ref, damn the ABs they could of played better and that damn ref could of seen that bloody foward pass that lost us the game. very sad day.