LemonHunter

Oh, shame, they have all the BMW stamps

Not mine. Pick apart chch $50ea 17x8 Et not marked

Long title, M52B28 Cyl1 195 Cyl2 210 Cyl3 190 Cyl 4 180 Cyl 5 200 Cyl 6 160

17 x 7.5 et41.

Auckland is a bit of a pita, but thanks for the offer. I found these with good tyres for $600, good deal? Style 5's?

price?

Currently 17x8 ET38's Online tool says they will be about 6mm closer to guard

I'm not much of a booker, link? Going to go look at these after work, probably reps, but cheap. https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2380422371

Looking for something around the 17x8 territory for the E36 to whack touring tyres on and save the semi's for weekends/track days.

Pics and price my dude, as per forum rules.

These look like Style 32 off an E39 M5? E 17 x 8 17x 9 5er E39 Touring, M5 8x17 * front ET 20 5er E39 Touring, M5 9x17 * back ET 26 https://www.trademe.co.nz/2378598418 What are my chances of whacking these on my E36?

Sweet ill check that out. The other quirk that is probably related is the fuel consumption guage is off by about 10L/km, shows 20L/km when cruising, which would be lovely, but yeah...

So, picked up my new E36 on the Weeke d, it's auto, but has the 3.6whatever LSD medium case diff. The tires are one profile higher than spec, 235/45/17 rather than 235/40/17. However what I'm dealing with is 100km Road speed (GPS and SID Confirmed) is around 82kph on the speedo, 50 around 39ish... And while I've got a pretty good butometer, it's a bit of a pain in the ass glancing down at the GPS all the time to confirm speed. Is this somthing I can change in the ecu? Or do I need a pulse modifier on the wire somewhere, or a new sender, or a new cluster?

Decided I should probably try my normal insurance, ANZ (Vero), happy do it in current guise for a really fair price.

One is required, but more are probably appreciated, given the price,by prospective purchasers.

Need photos, as per forum rules.

The blurb has like two lines dedicated to describing the car, perhaps a good time to talk about the dent.

Interesting. I just assumed in the past that if state wouldn't touch it, no IAG insurer would. The amount of times the customer service person would go talk to the under writer, then come back and say no, why the heck couldn't they say no, but iag said X insurer would. IAG could have had my money but I always ended up at NAC

That's interesting, AMI are underwritten by IAG, who also underwrite ASB, NZI, State, and Lumley Insurance. I've not used the others, but state and ASB have turned me down a few times. I'm with ANZ (Vero) now so maybe I should give them a go.

Someone put a 2.8 in this thing.

Back when I was a hoon a few years back NAC was the only real option. It seems these days there are few options. My current insurer won't touch my car with a 40' barge pole.

Colour me interested. Perhaps piggy back on the hotrodders breakfast is a good start. Some euros already go (mini) I tried to kick it back into life a few years back but had no shows on my park ups. I'd love to do some cruises to Akaroa and such

One method is to put a multimeter in series with the battery and start pulling and replacing fuses, in theory one of the fuses will stop the drain, then you can further diagnosis that circuit.

Shipping is from the depot closest to you, so probably $10ish I'm still a fan of load testing, sometimes without a load they settle in the low 12's happy enough. Measuring internal resistance helps, but load test is the true test. And the load of starting a car is a pretty good one. I usually test batteries as close to their initial current rating as I can.