M3AN

Very few of us pray at the BMW alter, we're more likely to hum a hymn or two on the front steps from time to time. Sharing your experience is welcome.

Yes, it's pretty difficult to think otherwise now, I'm feeling pretty lucky at this stage.

Which ones... there's a few... a couple here... http://bmw3series.johnavis.com/blog/686/fitting-us-market-cup-holders-to-an-australia-bmw-e36/ They all work pretty poorly in my experience.

The 2007 version has lot's of expensive bits... and it sounds like it's been looked after properly. All the stuff they mention is sensible. That intake is worth a fair bit and NLA. Great turn-in will be the M3 LCA's (or did you mean the other car?), and it still has hydraulic steering (you can see the reservoir). Still... too expensive IMHO. The 2006 looks quite unique and has a fabulous looking exhaust with the L/R outlets (very ///M). You don't see those wheels very often and they actually look quite good, as does that rear spoiler. But auto v's manual, surely that's your deciding factor, which are you looking for?

Software progress... So INPA tells me the DME is running firmware version "0049QK0MK80S" which is NOT an OEM build... so I search and find it here... which leads me to B&C Consulting, an aftermarket chip tuner. After fighting with their website (a little bit too Web 3.0) I was able to enter my details into their database and look what we find for 0049QK0MK80S/130i LCI... This thing just keeps getting better... ???

Hallelujah! That had slipped my mind... +1.

Most (all?) of the physical stuff has been done for the time being so onto the software... I've ordered a genuine Carly adaptor which should be here in a week or so. It may duplicate functionality but that's not an immediate concern for me, it's something I can leave in the car and use with the the Avin headunit. I also ordered a cheap K/DCAN cable from Amazon ($20) and downloaded INPA from Bimmergeaks.net and that seems to work fine although I've not tested much yet. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to get going considering how difficult it is to get going on an e36. All of the error reports are in German though and I need to see if I can change that (main interface is in English). Currently downloading ISTA (Rheingold) and will see if I can get that up and running too, don't know if I can use the same cable, hope so. edit: lol 9.83 of 9.98GB completed and I've hit Mega's transfer quota... ??? So will hopefully have full diagnostics and coding soon.

Yes, I picked up a trigger bottle of this stuff (from Mitre 10 actually) the other day and it's great. I'd just finished a bottle of Dragon's Breath and couldn't say one was better than the other (I suspect they're the same thing) but this CRC stuff is quite a bit less expensive, even at retail.

"Better?" It's a religious thing. Any reputable brand of the correct type and viscosity will be "suitable". This is underwritten by the fact that vehicle manufacturers change their oil brand allegiance as it suits them. In the early 2000's after the bearing failures in e46 M3's, BMW said "you must use Castrol Edge 10w-60" and so people did. But (some) people also went to stupid lengths to get the stuff that BMW dispensed rather than what you could buy off the shelf. These people declared "there is no alternative, your children will die if you use something else" and the belief in unicorn piss oil persisted. Then BMW simply changed their oil partner and now fill those same cars up with Shell 10w-60 without blinking an eye... totally undermining the "only one brand/type" argument. My engine oil cap says "use Castrol" yet BMW will fill it up with Shell... But for those that prefer to use Castrol then 50% off normal retail is a good deal regardless of why they want to use it (as would be 50% of Penrite). I use Castrol Edge in the M3 because that's what it has always had and I'm happy with it. I intend to use Penrite in the 130 as I did in the 128 because I have no problem with the quality of HPR5.

Bump. 5w-40 half price at Repco.

lol - mine is fine, it has aftermarket coilovers. The other 6 were terrible. It's a common complaint and when you consider how the suspension works, riding on the bumpstops, entirely understandable.

Worn suspension bushes, regardless of which ones, can affect all measurements, it really depends on how they're deflecting. Having said that, worn RTAB's shouldn't affect a static measurement, rear toe is set with three pretty significant bolts. Most of that alignment looks fine for a not-brand-new car... you can't really adjust front camber or caster using OEM hardware (without swapping top mounts L/R)... caster and toe are fine on your 'after' print and the camber difference is only ~0.5* out and probably explained by worn(ish) top mounts. Nothing to worry about. Rear camber is fine really, that's an imperceptible difference (ignore the green/red, it's the delta L/R that you need to consider) but I'm surprised they couldn't get that toe closer, that's quite a long way out. Have a quick look at the bolts on the front of the left hand rear control arm (the 3 surrounding the RTAB pocket) to see if they've been recently released and tightened (i.e. years of crud or clean surfaces from a spanner). If they've not been loosened then the job hasn't been done properly... they've basically added 5mm of toe to one side and 0.2mm to the other... the 0.2mm could be explained by the consequences of changing the camber (although that's not conclusive). The 5mm on the other side indicates they've certainly adjusted that one... would be odd to do one side and forget the other.

Aftermarket camber arms require a cert... as silly as that is. Rear toe should be sorted by shifting the rear arm at the RTAB pocket, did they do that? Rear camber is adjusted via an eccentric bolt but both these and the arms themselves wear and become terribly imprecise over time. There should be a L/R label and an arrow on the front top mounts that tells you how they should be oriented. You can swap them side-to-side for an additional ~1.5* camber (-ve). The picture of your alignment sheet is too small for my poor eyes to read.

I agree with Kelvin... that rocker cover is unlikely to be sealed and will a) spit out a lot of oil and b) sound like a vacuum cleaner. Take it back. If they've used sealant around the entire perimeter, or anywhere other than the joins in the alu then you'll probably need a new gasket. All of those rubber seals on the bolts are also meant to be replaced at the same time.

https://www.bmwblog.com/2020/02/01/did-jaguar-just-take-a-shot-at-bmws-new-grille-design/

It's a perfect replacement for the e36 3 series... and a great condition manual one of those costs what? I'd pick one up before everyone realises. I even wandered into the logistics of getting a manual and storing it lol.

^ please create a new thread with details... ?

Actually, that is a very good point. Having said that, I did think the R32 was pretty damn fun. And hey, you've got one of the better 1er suspension setups going... I'm not sure you're a good judge of OEM suspension... ?

Dynamics? Only a goose could consider the stock bumpstop-based suspension praiseworthy! It's utterly, utterly terrible on anything but a concrete road (Germany) and at any speed over 140km/h... really, truly scary. And I really like the look, before and after purchase!

Hate to have to say it but stupid-big car equals stupid-big bills. Tyres are cheap... wait until the brakes or suspension needs replacing...

That Alpine White M3 is the tits.

Yes, I have to agree, the interior looks even better in person than the pictures above. I'm not sure I'd have the guts to attack the leather like you did but the results are amazing. Props.

I'm embarrassed to admit I hadn't checked the air filter until today... reminded myself to do that at the coffee meet this morning. The good news: it's a BMC filter and already pretty clean. No more paper air filters needed, yay.

^ Good options and they'll take $7,500... I can't imagine manuals can get much less expensive than that in the short term.

Oh. Many discussions here about Gull fuel, just do a search. I'm no expert but some people have firm opinions on the quality.