M3AN

I agree with Kelvin... that rocker cover is unlikely to be sealed and will a) spit out a lot of oil and b) sound like a vacuum cleaner. Take it back. If they've used sealant around the entire perimeter, or anywhere other than the joins in the alu then you'll probably need a new gasket. All of those rubber seals on the bolts are also meant to be replaced at the same time.

https://www.bmwblog.com/2020/02/01/did-jaguar-just-take-a-shot-at-bmws-new-grille-design/

It's a perfect replacement for the e36 3 series... and a great condition manual one of those costs what? I'd pick one up before everyone realises. I even wandered into the logistics of getting a manual and storing it lol.

^ please create a new thread with details... ?

Actually, that is a very good point. Having said that, I did think the R32 was pretty damn fun. And hey, you've got one of the better 1er suspension setups going... I'm not sure you're a good judge of OEM suspension... ?

Dynamics? Only a goose could consider the stock bumpstop-based suspension praiseworthy! It's utterly, utterly terrible on anything but a concrete road (Germany) and at any speed over 140km/h... really, truly scary. And I really like the look, before and after purchase!

Hate to have to say it but stupid-big car equals stupid-big bills. Tyres are cheap... wait until the brakes or suspension needs replacing...

That Alpine White M3 is the tits.

Yes, I have to agree, the interior looks even better in person than the pictures above. I'm not sure I'd have the guts to attack the leather like you did but the results are amazing. Props.

I'm embarrassed to admit I hadn't checked the air filter until today... reminded myself to do that at the coffee meet this morning. The good news: it's a BMC filter and already pretty clean. No more paper air filters needed, yay.

^ Good options and they'll take $7,500... I can't imagine manuals can get much less expensive than that in the short term.

Oh. Many discussions here about Gull fuel, just do a search. I'm no expert but some people have firm opinions on the quality.

Is it the two people mentioned above? Either way, give preference to Bimmersport members. And you're unlikely to have received both offers at *exactly* the same time, preference goes to the first unless they're not polite and/or respectful.

No, they don't. But who tf needs cc anyway? Does your right foot not work?

lol - those two people are sharing exhausts at the moment! Good deal, especially including the front section and new resonators... GLWS.

It's not hard rule but since 91 isn't available in Europe (min. is 95) then we can assume they're testing the vehicles with 95 (or 98+). The common recommendation is to use 95+ in all European petrol cars. Will it make a difference? Possibly not. Is it safer? Absolutely yes. So for the sake of ~$100 a year difference then you might as well take the safe route and use 95. Edit: obviously the higher the compression ratio the higher octane level you want... not sure where the 120i sits in this regard.

No point in going 3rd party, it will cost the same. Is the warranty BMW is offering a BMW factory warranty or a 3rd party one like Autosure? A factory warranty would be better. How long? Well that's up to you really... at what point can you extend it? If you can wait you might as well do so and upgrade the warranty during the 11th month of your current one if you think it's necessary.

You don't need 98 though, stick with 95 and save some coin. If you want to believe 98 is better for your engine then run a tank through it every 3 months.

Nice pickup... it's always nice when you're satisfied with purchase. ? Unless you have the service history it might be a good idea to take it to an independent BMW specialist (there are Dunedin members here that will be able to provide recommendations) for a full inspection and service... things to consider will be brakes (easy inspection), oil and filter (almost mandatory), cooling system check and flush/replace coolant, power steering check, air filter check (probably replace), code reading (for any hidden faults), check plugs and leads (probably fine)... probably some other basics I've missed. Oh, and welcome!

Sold. $5,550 is a good price almost regardless of the condition. If you liked that interior it would be a crime not to pick this one up for that amount. A bit like that manual in Queenstown, bargain.

Sold.

Underneath is all pretty much the same... convertibles use different spring rates, that's about it. Are you talking e36 or e46?

Changing at 3000 is fine... I'm not sure what problem you're describing... If you mean that it should be changing at 3000 and is flaring higher whilst trying to change then that could just be low fluid.

Forgive my ignorance, which site is this?

I realise you're probably paraphrasing but just... in... case... You may be able to reset timing with special tools but timing won't go out in the first place unless something is broke and if something is broke it needs to be repaired or replaced. You should (read: must) discuss how timing was out in the first place before you drive away.