Mike

sorry, worded badly- its the adjustable bushings that can slip out. my IE ones have been fine.

you are aware that everything else being equal a 16mm bar is over 3 times stiffer than a 12mm bar (is that what e30's run)? it might not be that large compared to other brands out there but should still be significantly stiffer.

yip, how easily will depend on what circuits have been built into it and what trigger you want to use. If your currently motronic I think you will have a VR sensor. This is on a different circuit to the hall sensors. If its been built with the VR circuit its just a couple of jumpers to swap it over, otherwise it could be difficult finding the right components in NZ. DIYautotune will sell you bit for very reasonable prices and shipping though. Its $240NZ + shipping for the kit, its easy to build and you do learn quite a bit doing it, makes much more sense. I haven't had too much trouble yet but I can see how it could frustrate the hell out of some people. You really have to take your time reading up on it. There are plenty of maps out there for the M20 now, find a known good one and you could probably even get away without a wideband sensor. I'd just do a dyno run to check out the A/F ratios.

what sizes? what do they come with in the set? ie new links, bushings, etc? $200 is a steal either way.

im pretty sure stock for stock a 325i will still be faster than the 325 super eta. I think the super eta was technically a 1988 325. It had a 2.7 block and same combustion chamber as a 325i but its single valve springs limited engine speed and it had tamer cams to match that. intake manifolds are also smaller for more torque on the s eta. easiest 2.7 combo is to put a full head and manifolds etc on the s-eta block. However, there are plenty of other combos out there for 2.7's, and plenty of myths too.

right, so in that case you will need a cam position sensor. what are your reasons for not wanting wasted spark? Only downside is your coils are firing twice as often. The M30 wont be revving to stupid speeds so isn't really a major. just curious?

you should be able to wind up the torsion bars and get some extra leafs put into the rear springs.

thats what i thought, but in the post above me he says its not wasted spark?

I'm i little confused, so you are using a dizzy now? If its crank sensed ignition you either need to use a dizzy or wasted spark?

you sure they're staggered? I haven't seen wheels with that much difference in rim width keep the same offset.

will this cover be at the front of the motor by the cam chain? if so the cover from the M10 may work.

Bit of an update. Got the car started today after a few weeks off the road. ign wires still need a bit of a tidy up but otherwise pretty happy with how things are looking. No more flappy paddle! still needs to be tuned and then dynod but will probably just get it drivable to make it down south then go and see NZEFI about some dyno time. I made up a small adapter to reuse most of the loom, the wideband O2 and the TPS had to be wired in from scratch as there was no existing O2 sensor and the TPS wiring had a short in it somewhere. This meant i was constantly in flood clear mode, so no fuel and no start. In the engine bay i cut the AFM plug and attached the IAT plug, and i cut the TPS plug and reused that. Other than that its all pretty much factory loom. Hardware changes were an e36 TPS and suitable adapter, pipe to replace AFM with bung for intake temp sensor, and the LC-1 lambda cable. The only problem with this is setup is that the ign. system is responsible for turning on the fuel pump and the ECU, so the ecu only powers up when the car is running, makes tuning a bitch so i just rigged up a temp jumper from the battery. shouldnt be needed now its idling. Still having a few little problems but will probably come across some more when i start the proper tuning. Also replaced the ignition system and sorted out some water lines for the turbo. If anyone else is thinking about doing this go have a look at DIYautotune.com, customer service is outstanding - even after they've sold it to you and you keep asking dumb questions.

post up a pic-probably what will was saying above about it just being an overflow catch tank. hence why thats full and radiator empty. just unscrew rad cap and the water should be above the fins

I'm pretty sure the E30 M3 runs exactly the same rear geometry as the normal e30. but as i said above the front bar pick up is different, more leverage, so smaller bar is used. 325i front bar is actually bigger. riley- the IE subframe camber and toe kits are a much better solution than the adjustable bushes. as you change the camber the toe will change too, quite tricky to setup right and can slip out of adjustment easily from what i've heard.

check the fan if its only in traffic

^yes - I've only got the rear bar in, very little understeer. ( your 320i probably wont have a rear) Riley, what are you trying to achieve exactly? swaybars can really change the balance of the car. it might be an idea just to weld M3 style mount tabs to your existing struts. will give your front bar better efficiency and should dial out some oversteer- just an idea before you go spend $$$ on a swaybar kit.

whiteline are available locally, don't know about sizes though.

couldn't have said it better. 320's got nothing on a 325, 2.5 is a really worthwhile upgrade, much better than stuffing round with chips, exhausts etc on a 320i

I reckon it would be airborne around 280km

fugly. way too much spoke love or hate with those wheels though.

a lot of those degrees will have a pretty much open first year (provided you got UE). Its the 2nd year thats competitive. Worst case for the first year maybe that you have to do a few courses over summer. ie health science year for med, (otago) laws101 paper for entry to law school (canterbury) engineering intermediate year (1st year) for entry to professional years (canterbury)

dont worry bout it dude, you've already set yourself up for a decent uni career if you got the ability to work your arse off at school. I've always been academic and cruised through school passing well without much effort. Uni was the first time I had to seriously work and took a while for me to learn decent study habits.

why? using the connectors leaves it completley un-butchered and he can easily chuck the OEM headunit in if he comes to sell it.

Nothing to do with my olds, been with them a while slowly modifying it and somehow they haven't given me the boot. I've disclosed everything to them aswell. Car is currently legal and has been for a year.

If you want direct fit there is one from a E34 auto M20 that is both switch and variable, not many around though. Just use one from an M50 and make up an adapter plate.