M3_Power

Still for sale Christmas pressie for someone?

I am impressed how you were able to remove those black plastic tail light pieces without damaging them! I took one off the other day and it was a royal pain in the backside to not do any damage!

Kyu “babe, can I borrow your F20 tonight to go and pick up a big box of parts from Tom? And you come and help me load it also?” oh wait ?? Seriously, she’s a keeper! My wife would slap me around senseless if I asked her to do the same ???

Your girlfriend would not like it! She’ll miss all that quality romantic time where she is all dressed up for a night out just so she can help you move car parts in and out of the F series! Don’t do it! Wait for the F80 M3 to come down and buy that ... much better car.

No it doesnt that reservoir is exactly that an expansion tank. Unless it is completely empty it won’t cause an issue. Get INPA and get live readouts of the pump pressure and temp ect it will give you all the readings you need to see including adaptation readings for each gear. If you don’t know what you are looking it bring it to me or take it to Ray at Hellbm.

Doubt it would be a brush issue If pump motor fails to build pressure it will go into neutral and fail to engage any gear usually. The symptoms sounds like it is getting pressure resistence so it does not go up or down (1 and 4) along the travel but it rotates fine. four possibilities by what you have described - gearbox readaptation required as it is struggling to find the correct gear so it is experiencing resistance beyond the maximum value for it to travel up or down (ie north south engagement) but not left or right or vice versa. temperature sensor issue on the smg pump unit - these fail like the rear subframe and if experiencing high temperature you will get temperamental issues with gear engagement. But the programming for this in the module is for it to drop into neutral so unlikely. Third possibility - broken indent spring in the gearbox (one of three but likely one only) - very possible as you described 1st gear and that’s the big indent spring on the top of the gearbox and that breaks all the time. Lastly clutch issue so the clutch isn’t disengaging completely for the gearbox to engage gears - most likely if the clutch is old - most likely failure is the cheap plastic pivot pin on the clutch release fork - when this fails the clutch does not diaengage 100% (more like 60%) with the clutch fully in ... this will result in pressure resistence in the system and cause it to not engage selected gear. My money is on the last one if old clutch. A scan and readaptation will tell you exactly what is wrong.

You are in good hands with Peter he works on all my cars exclusively and did majority of the subframe work on my Yellow car - find my post if you like for photos. Depending on the length and location of the crack the epoxy might not be suitable (stop calling it a foam people!!! It’s a bloody structural epoxy that you soak in boiling water to activate for crying out loud!). For cars without any previous cracks the epoxy has proven to work as a preventative as I stated 13 years ago. looking at the photos I think you will need welding given where that crack is and ita length. There will be more when you drop the subframe. Expect a big bill if you want it done properly.

I wouldn’t chance that the rules won’t change in 2023 even if it meets the criteria now. fairly sure the immigrant vehicle status doesn’t mean you can hold it for that many years till it complies. It will fail emission rules now even if it doesnt change by 2023.

Just convert one locally it uses the same gearbox as the e92 m3. the coding probably not difficult either.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264027211753 I honestly wouldn’t bother with a replica.

E46s will meet the frontal impact rules it seems as it has dual airbags and traction control, however I highly doubt many would meet emission standard required for import. At least not euro variants. US versions would as it had LEV standards from quite early on but being left hand drive it won’t meet the rules either. I just double checked and EU4 did not happen for Euro spec E46 M3s till late June 2005. I can’t imagine too many of those being made at all. M3 CSLs would be easier to import and register under the SIV rules than a standard E46 M3 in my opinion.

Very possible as the E46 M3 came with no EOBD compliant tunes

Fairly certain non of those cars above are EU4 standards so you won’t even be able to import and register them. EU4 didn’t happen till March 2005 for the E46 M3 and that was LHD variants. I need to check but I believe EU4 did not happen for RHD till May 2005.

What’s your budget?? Truth be told if you want hassle free fitment and installation buy a genuine one - they are quite reasonably priced. Everything else out there have fitment issues one way or another. Some more than others and some more liveable than others.

Yes they are Are you after wheels or wheels and tyres?

Cleared! Thanks!! Didnt even know!

Offers! Need them gone

Buy me otherwise I am going to start using them lol!

I have NEVER seen an e46 m3 from the UK without some sort of under floor rust (be it minor or significant) and I have seen a lot of them. It is usually the floor, suspension components (nuts and bolts), subframe, arms, fuel tank strap, exhaust mounts, front wings and the list goes on. I have even seen low mileage UK CSLs with tons of rusts. I also went and saw a 2016 X5M freshly imported with running in miles and it had beginning signs of rust. If you know where to look you will find it. If you can’t see it, then it has been removed or covered up. To say a UK import that has been used in winter has zero rust you are simply in denial about how science works. Given the amount of potential issues I’d never import one without checking it out by somebody that really knows overseas or personally. Choices aplenty locally to make importing make sense. EU4 compliant software thread

For sale also it seems https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/97707/bmw-e30-m3

Sedan is more rigid better for racing Good to see you here Shaun!! Peter told me about this the other day!!!

Free in great condition

Driven the new M140i? If not go try it, it eats the 1M for breakfast in every single department. You can’t really compare a modern car to something nearly 20 years old. I drove my CSL the other day right after my daily driver Twin turbo V8 wagon and my first impression was ... holy sh*t this is slow and unresponsive!!! Then I heard the induction roar again instead of the artificial exhaust burbles and pops of the modern turbos and all was good again! Don’t get me wrong the 1M is a great car ... I just don’t think it deserves to be called a M. Perhaps a 135iS like it’s sister Z4 35iS

Fair enough .... until this came along. What a shame it wasn’t put into production. My point is BMW might as do what Mercedes does now and badge everything with an “AMG” of some sort and capitalise on it (also at the same time dilute the brand) and slap a M badge on every second model they make ... oh wait ...

Wasn’t the 850CSi also “engineered” by motorsport? But it never received the M status .... perhaps back then Motorsport understood what “motorsport” meant? Rather than having their balls pulled along by the marketing department nowdays?