M3_Power

Buy me

Bump

Ray got this one I think??? Fried electronics and all. Odd however the plate is onhold, because if I recall correctly the shell was accidentally sent to be crushed.

Isn’t the purpose of LVVT certification to certify “modifications”??? Lol?!!! Seems counter productive what you are doing?!

My money on one or both of the dsc pressure sensors on the brake master cylinder. Factory tools will give you live readings and tell you if one is faulting. Only takes a little bit of variation for it to trigger those two lights.

What do you mean??? I can see my advert fine unless it’s a cached version I am seeing?

Bump need the storage room so these have to go lol!

https://youtu.be/sV9teW4Mjsw

I am not sure how you are lifting that whole right side of the car, but I wouldn’t do that on that rear jack spot to lift one full side - the rear jack spots are known to collapse into the chassis when you do that. Use the front jack point if you want to lift one side with the wheels off the ground like that.

What a fantastic day ... Thank you Ray for putting this on! Has been far too long since I went to one of these.

Hmmmm I don’t have an engineering degree but I am good enough with physics to know this can’t be true. Nano second wheel change arguments aside, and ignoring wear and tear of stud or bolt, with appropriate material properties and thread pitch you can yield the same clamping force, sheer force and yield strength in both stud and bolt fastening methodology but you have the following mechanical advantages with a stud and lug\nut set up. - consistency of tightening torque as the amount of thread engaged on a stud and lug nut is the same and not dependent on how many threads are picked up in the hub (more torque the more threads/friction or more bolt stretch you introduce - if any) - safer and easier to inspect stud and lug\nut wear over bolt and hub wear. - single vertical force acting on a stud and nut during the tightening phase vs two forces being acted upon on a bolt through stretch and twist in the tightening phase leading to a more accurate and even clamping between the two mating surfaces (think cylinder heads). but apart from that I agree that the M14 to M12 stud kits are a bad idea vs enlarging holes in the wheel. But give me centre lock anytime over everything else because “race car” lol!! : )

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1543716932.htm improved looks perhaps

Pull mirror off and drain and reinstall. You’ll lose autodim function but meh. it’ll leak till all the chemical inside has completely gone.

It’s in both of my s54 powered cars at the moment and as stated above I am in two minds about it as it does appear to behave slightly differently compared to Castrol of old. Personally I think it’s actually quite a good product on paper especially on higher km engines. Is it as good or better than the Castrol Edge TWS/Professional/Supercar stuff that BMW used to recommend. I would most certainly say so, but without empiracal evidence to back it up so purely speculation and personal opinion. From what I have read and seen also there are now many good alternatives if you do not like the dealership oil. The top pickings appears to be (in no particular order). LiquiMolly Castrol Edge Professional TWS/Supercar Motul 8100

And fairly sure this was already discussed back in 2014

Are you saying they are different “ONLY BECAUSE” the products are for - different markets/climatic/operating conditions or are you saying the formulation is substantively different because it’s for a completely different engine requirement application? It seems to me you are saying 10W-60 from the Castrol edge titanium range (“insert sub range here”) are all roughly the same with the differentiating factor being marketing and usage in different countries with slight variations in the formulation for market climate and operating conditions? Because from what I have been told by Castrol the formulation is completely different from the perspective that it is for a different engine requirement and not a marketing, climatic or operating condition variation that you are alluding to. Anyways, some updates. It seems Castrol NZ still have loads of the correct product for M engines (ie the original Castrol TWS aka Castrol Edge Professional (subsequent branding change)) but they weren’t sure if they could sell this to retail customers yet and have now been told that BMW no longer hold a contract over this product. To be continued ....

It’s not a standards or classification difference talking to the technical guy at Castrol. He said flat out the SN local product isn’t approved for BMW M engines. He says the formulation is completely different. There is reprive as I say as he says a M approved product maybe released to local retail market soon.

Sorry for bumping this as it seems like a good time to do so as the Castrol stuff officially ran out from the dealerships a few months back and there’s now only the Shell/BMW stuff left. I have had some first hand experience now with this new dealership 10W-60 and I am at two minds about it as it seems to act slightly differently depending on if your motor has high km or low km. On the high km s54 it seems to be the same engine temperature wise, no discernable difference except for a slightly raised temperature under hard driving. On the low km s54 it was immediately clear that the engine ran much hotter even in normal conditions but about the same under hard driving although the temp rose a lot quicker than before. I have been doing a bit more research and I originally thought that the latest Castrol Edge 10W-60 sn with Titanium FST sold locally in NZ (in repco ect) might be the same product sold in the UK approved for BMW M motors - which is named Castrol Edge 10W-60 Supercar with Titanium FST there. In the UK Castrol Edge with titanium FST isn’t sold in 10W-60 weight, only in the “supercar” range which is also a Castrol Edge product with Titanium FST. Looking at the specs between the NZ product and the UK supercar product they do appear similar. Deciding to find out once and for all I decided to email Castrol NZ to find out. It appears the current NZ product isn’t the same as the UK supercar product sold there approved for the M motors. But it seems this approved product may yet come into NZ. Reply from Castrol NZ below:

I’ve personally seen a M54B30 motor with cams and no vanos and stock bottom end with this intake make 300hp at the hubs on a Motec ... so it wasn’t really huge money ... as to how long it lasted ... probably not that long lol!!

They are a copy of the original ALMS M3 GTR wheel design to an extent ... right down to the spoke numbers.

Starting to sound like the answer to my question is in the negative lol!! Thanks for all the feedback and comments! Didn’t the P54B20 rev to 9000rpm or more?

Nothing is cheap when it is bmw motorsport. I guess that’s also why nothing remotely close is available to the market that resembles it. That one you linked to is a later version and for a different series and motorsport made them in Silver carbon in the last reiteration which made 285hp I believe from the 2 litres. For some noise porn : )

Correct it is off the WTCC 2 litre e46 touring cars. I believe these made about 265hp? Having actually witnessed this plenum run on a M54B30 touring car that put out 300hp at the dyno I would say it’s actually still optimal to flow for larger capacity motors. You can I believe get different sized throttle bodies for these. I honestly don’t know enough about it to be honest. Bling factor counts!!!! No idea hence I am asking if it is even worth investigating or how easy it’d be to make work on a road car : ) maybe I’ll grab a cheap 320i and give it a go !!! It sounds freaking awesome these plenums.

I used to keep a car covered under a cover outside and to be honest I wouldn’t recommend it. The trouble with car covers is anything that’s waterproof retains all the moisture under the cover and when it’s sunny it heats up the car like an oven. So you have a double whammy of extra heat and moisture within the around the car - results are never pretty under prolonged use. Another thing is any wind and the cover moves around acting like sandpaper with any dust particle wrecking havoc on your paint work. and there’s no such thing as one that doesn’t blow off, they are like a parachute in windy conditions, even if you tie it down onto the car have a brick on top. Personally just leave it in the elements and move it around and open the windows when the sun is out. Buy a cat to scare the birds away or use a scarecrow : )

Just wondering if you guys think there’s a market for an intake like this? Not an expert in the 2 litre M54 motor or how easy it would be to make one work on a stock motor - thoughts and inputs!