Andrew

If you just remove the brake lines - the system will fill with air and the fronts won't work either. You need to block the rear lines.

Undo them from the calipers and find a fitting that will block off the end of the line. Handbrake will work - it has no relation to the hydraulic brakes.

with only like 500 Nm of torque also :-D

In terms of shock shortening - it all varies. My racecar - approx 60mm drop - has shocks that are around 50mm shorter than standard ones when we checked. Most people don't bother using shorter shocks and find that the springs are not captive with super low springs (anything over a ~ 40 mm drop). So in summary - if you lower the rear 40 mm it and use a standard koni or bilstein sport shock - the rear spring will be nearly captive and the front will be captive (with variations on spring pads etc). Sometimes the stiffness (as in the amount it lets the trailing arm move when it is hanging) of the rear trailing arm bush will make a rear spring captive also. You can't go wrong with this setup from Turner Motorsport. It won't be as badass as it can be without the sways/camber plates plus all the other goodies but it would be damn good and are quality bits. You'd also have the options of adding the rest of the kit later and know you are buying stuff that has springs matched to shocks matched to sways matched to caster/camber matched to re-inforcement bits. TURNER MOTORSPORT J-STOCK SPRINGS TURNER MOTORSPORT J-STOCK SHOCKS COMPLETE J-STOCK KIT [ABOUT 3.5 K NZD LANDED]

Welcome to the site - please check you are posting in the correct section. I have moved your post from BMW Race Series Technical to Bimmersport Technical: RE Suspension: Check other threads in this section - it has been done a million times before and you should be able to get an idea on what is good/bad & prices. E.G http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=9653 RE E46 M3 wheels: The e46 has a 5 x 120 PCD hub and the E30 has 4 x 100 PCD. You could either convert your E30 to 5 x 120 (again use search) or try find a replica E46 M3 wheel.

2 days ago in the f**cking turbo - that thing hates me.

--> QUOTE(John B @ Feb 27 2007, 04:18 AM) 112699[/snapback] OS : Windows XP Professional, Version 5.1.2600, Service Pack 2. BROWSER : Internet Explorer 7.0.5730.11 CONNECTION : Jetstream Thats all good - Photos need to be JPEG in RGB/8 or 10 bit - size is unlimited - but keep them under 1 MB please.

it took me a moment...

What OS/Browsers?

Nothing compared to what happened to me

Post up prices. Keen to know for a mate.

4 was the best - i was just shitting myself laughing. Cool million spent on episode 4 just on the feature alone I reckon.

Salad girl? .... go watch Conrods car race - it sounds just like that (i.e insanely badass)

Harsh, bouncy, horrible.

The m20 box was on such an angle - there was no way it was going to even fit in the tranny tunnel, let alone the problems with the gear linkage

Happy Bday Shelley - Thanks for all the help.

Gus pwns e30s by the way. He didn't use the hammer once.

Ya tell him he's dreaming?

Not wrong about rangi - but hey. Car is looking better with the kit - good stuff.

As most of you know - my turbo lunched a gearbox. Aside from not being able to find a Getrag 240 for a 4 cylinder - I knew it would just pwn again. The Getrag 260 is much stronger and can easily be made to fix with no comprimise in strength (this is the way to do it properly). Let's dispell some gearbox myths. ALL types of E30 gearboxes bolt to EVERY engine (have not checked the m10 - but they probably do). It is only the angle of the engine (and consequently, gearbox) that is a problem. M20 sit on an angle - M40 engines sit pretty much straight. So on the 240 (4 cylinder version) and 260, geabox, clutch/flywheel/pressure plate combo - will work for any car. Slave cylinders from any model work in any car. To make a 260 fit on (in my case - an E30 318iS with M42) Take one getrag 260 - chop the front of the bell housing off on the bit that is round all the way around and weld it so the top starter motorbolt is at top dead. Use the 240 gearlinkage and chop about 20mm from the bit that supports the gearlever, and 20 mm from the actuator. Driveshaft needs to be loosened in the middle to make up for the missing 1 mm or so in the gearbox. Tighten again. Mark Herbert at Herbert fabrication has now made a jig (that I paid for, ghey) - so he could do all this for $250ish inc GST. OK - so one or two of the gearbox bolts don't go in (but they don't matter). Last step, turn up the boost and find out how much power the 260 can take. For the record - my 240 didn't last long with 280 odd hp.

It isn't.

IE have always been good for been - under 1 wk delivery times.

hah - I was like to gus as he was fitting the gearbox - stop shaking the car n00b it will fall on you.

It was only worth 4500 when I got it.

I have used all of the springs. Do not use Eibach (what I have in my turbo) Much too stiff. Again - H & R (Sport - not race) with Bilstien Sport or Koni SA depending on preference.