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Hi Glenn - do you replace these? I dont have the special tool to get them off. I have the Ball Joints (Lemfoeder) and snap rings. I will call to arrange a time to come in

Anyone - who can test my coils as Jochen has pointed out above?

A 528i has to best the best all round car for the E39s - power to weight ratio. (530i is best since 2000) IMO maintanence is no issue - unlike the V8s your not prone to oil leaks, have 2 less O2 sensors and the M52 motor is very reliable. Supension is aluminium - high mileage (1996 model - maybe) you will need to check bushings, control arms, sway bar links, ball joints - these can be picked up with a inspection. If you drive over a speed bump and hear a clunking noise - ball joints Singapore models seem similar to NZ new (spec wise apart from TV etc) Japs - seem to be mostly cloth inside and you cant put Euro plates on them unless you change the boot. Plus cars from these markets have the IR keys which is a PITA - NZ modles have RF. Engine -Cooling system - Replace the combo - Radiator/Water Pump/Thermostat. If they havent gone yet - they will. Service History - good bonus Crank sensor - rubbish - scanning can pick this up or if the car has trouble cranking. Walk awy if this happens Overall - good car - similar to a 328i which are known for reliability

Thanks Jochen - I believe you could be right. When it has been scanned for faults - faulty coils are not picked up I presume? Glen - do you have something to test my coils at low RPM? When I drive the car doing 50km/hour the car runs smoothly? But idle if you can remember back in April when I brought her in idle is shockingly shaky. Can I get my volt meter and test the ohms somehow? I will check the coils first then focus on the mounts. I have to find it eventually...

Ok - Im running out of ideas here.. Symptom is - shaky / vibrating idle - when sitting in the drivers seat (with AC off) the seats shakes With AC on - its comes and goes every 1 second = the one above is constant. What I have done: Air filter Spark Plugs Oil filter Oil change PCV valve Intake gaskets / oil separator etc Brake fluid New MAF - Bosch Transmission flush - torque convertor checked all ok What the hell is it??? I have had the car scanned again - no faults ( I was guessing O2 sensors) Could it be the engine / tranny mounts??? These havnt been replaced and after 120k km it could be the issue?? Anyone?

Man ...what have they done to it??!? I agree - I have know that car for a while and i still cant get around the interior. If anyone is interested - to get that car to my standard you would be looking at: Ball joints - rear $400? Front sway Bar / bushings - $400? Good cut and polish - alot of scratches - $200? Interior leather - re colour/touch up - $600? CD changer not working - ?? Instrument cluster - pixels dead - $900 Tranny flush - $350? Radiator / WP / thermostat - $1200? MAF - $450?

2 days ago I noticed a large puddle of coolant under the car, so I did a little searching and noticed there is a stream of coolant running from the bottom of the water pump down to the ground. Could this be a gasket issue or the water pump telling me something? For some time now I can hear a grinding noise coming from drive belts but havnt stuck a stethascope in there to know where it is coming from. Could this noise be the water pumps bearings? Water pump was replaced brand new 8 months ago. Water pump stuffed or gasket issue? car: E39 540i M62

ok - Brake Lining message has come up and I presume it stating the front... Do I replace with Zimmerman BMW Genuine Brembo Balo Other Anyone have any feedback on using non BMW? Requirements: Quiet - no squeek when braking at high or low speeds Brake dust (none would be nice) Needs pads with sensor to be compatible with Check control What should I get?

Glenn - do you have equipment to increase the idle? The idle as you saw is 400RPM and 600RPM with AC. This is too low isnt it? Can you reprogramme ECU to increase?

Both sides of the 540i were damaged, so I repaced them both with brand new, autodipping, heated aspherical phase 2's. Both installed and tested - passenger side works great, drivers made the glass turn yellow and doesnt dim out headlights from behind. I then switched them around, this time the other glass went from dark blue to yellow and the one that was not working on the drivers side is now dark blue. So the problem is not the actual glass's, where could I look to find why the drivers side is not dipping/working? I have noticed the drivers side speaker (the intergrated one next to air vent at top of door) is not working, is there the control module for all this inside the door - should I look there first?

PCV Valve, intake gaskets, pipe installed. (old one had oil dripping out if it) Result - no difference in idle. still have "jerky" transmission changes for gears 1,2,3. Although it does accelerate alot quicker. MAF Air flow meter next? It cant be the O2 sensors - they would def. throw a code right? Actually the MAF hasnt thrown oone either. Glenn - any ideas?

1. Crankshaft Sensor (under car - trans/engine mount) 2. Vacuum leak somewhere 3. Camshaft sensor(s) 4. Fuel Pump / Filter 5. EGR valve 6. Charcoal canister??

I thought of taking the alternator off - but dont you have to take off the fan shroud, fan , ac belt to get the belt of the alternator? Maybe I just cut the alternator wire ??

Glenn - remove the wiring from where exactly? Theres a rubber grommet on the box with 2 wires with insulation coming out - one goes to a connector under the extractors (Ive got this one) and the other is squeezed under the lower timing case behind the alternator. I can get under the car but my hand is too big to get to the generator

I need to lift one side off to fold over to the other so I then can remove the intake manifold. On the passenger side, the electric box (connected to the ignition coils etc) has a lead plugged into the back of the alternator. Removing this plug from the alternator is impossible to get to. The drivers side electri box has wiring running down through the engine/transmission mount - this also restricts movement. What is the trick to make some space so I can lift the intake manifold up?? On the M62TU it is easier because the alternator was discontinued and replaced with a water cooled generator which made this easier. Whats the trick with the M62 or M60?? Help.

But... you could call the car Barney

Cmon guys, doesnt anyone want a 6 speed E39 540i anymore?? Offers around $13,500 I will take

Deano - go to Archibald Mitsubishi and ask for a guy called Anthony (better known as AJ), hes a short stocky Moari chap. Anthony used to work at Northland Prestige and Team Mcmillan prior to that. There is a tech there called Nick - hes German. Hes good on BMWs too. Failing that there is always Betta Motor Works on Water Street. Anthony is your best bet when it comes to the DME

mm. I see what you mean, cheapest on TM is $16,990. what about a 528? only thing is its not as new as your 525i.

I saw a Blackish E46 coupe with Audis latest LED styling type LED's around the headlights. It looked quite cool - anyone from here??

I thought I was on Wikipedia for a minute.

I would go for a 530i if it was me, these are the best E39 car all round plus you have more power.

I would start with replacing the water pump on the tank as a cheap cure for the pressure, is water leaking around the o ring? You dont need to replace the jets with OE heated ones, you can get non heated OE versions for heaps less.