slowe30

cheers, been decided that were getting a new gearbox, found a low ks one quite cheap. will confirm on removal first tho

just replaced an engine in my e36 328i due to the head cracking. got it all running and started on my first test drive, half way round the block lost all drive through the auto tranny and had to tow home (was only 500metres or so and kept engine idleing to keep fluid flowing in the box). now i dont know enough about autos yet to diagnose it so is there anything i should take a look at? the torque converter was slightly disrupted on removal (moved foward about 2cm) but was quickly and smoothly pushed back into place. any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks

when i swapped from a small to medium case, it bolted straight in, was quite easy really. and you will feal the differance between those ratios, not sure how much but you will if i were you i would leave the car off the road for a couple weeks and save up for an lsd i used to swap from 4.1 to a 4.45 when i had my 1.8 engine and that was a noticable change, now im running a 3.25 lsd with the m52 and its WAY!!! to long for my liking

i might add to my comment, i wanted a spare bottom end for my e30 m52 anyways so its all worked out perfectly for me. ill be pulling the head off eventually and checking to see if it did crack. and what cylinder is the an issue with. ive seen 2 in the last month with coolant leaking into number 4 cylinder

just looking through i realised i never put up the pictures on my front brake/suspension set up. so little late but here they are.. and a picture of my soon to be daily drivier e36 328i

been a while since this has been updated, only got one decent picture of what the cars like atm. dark out and the cars in hiding for another 2 months so cant get any new ones. front lip was being test fitted and will be painted before it gets fitted propperly. also car is going to be slightly lowered as its fealing like a little bit of a boat being that high anyway, i got a few questions for people that know their stuff. i have a m52b28 spare now with a bad head gasket, wanting to know if i put the m52b28 crank rods and pistons into a m50 block, what would the compression become? would it be a strong setup? wanting to run boost through this one and will be a build in progess for quite a while. thinking of putting in a thicker head gasket to lower the compression and fit head studs. im looking for something in the area on 300kw atw eventually but thats a couple years off reaching im guessing. and what turbo would people recommend? dont want to stress something small out, been thinking something in the gt35r range

these engines are known to crack heads easily and chances are it wont be the gasket, it would have cracked. ive just picked up a mint condition e36 328i with a head gasket issue and were putting a new engine in straight away, not evan bothering about pulling the head off to check

does anyone have the tools to lock the cams when removing the head on a m52b28 in auckland? would i please be able to borrow them in a couple of weeks? am happy to pay or supply beer haha

as andy said the 944 booster, and yea i think the m52 swap is great. its cheap and you get lots from it. with my exhaust manifolds it was too close to the steering colum, so yours may need to be slightly modified to fit. and just out of curiosity, what diff ratio are you planning on running? my 3.25 is far to long

ive read up about the auto/manual situation as i was interested about it, and it has some hiccups, nothing major tho. and i think the injectors and cams would be enough to cause the small problems i have, i think im just being a bit of a perfectionist with how the engine goes. the cars going to be fully completed before it comes back out and that is hope fully gonna be within the next 2.5 months. but engine running is comming first. and those simmons m52b28 computers you talked of, how would i find one? what do they commonly come on?

i got a m52 in my e30, with the booster setup i used a porshe booster, bolted straight up and works like a charm. didnt need the relocation kit, that golf booster your using should do the same. have you done anything to the exhaust manifolds yet? would like to see how thats been sorted if you wouldnt mind

im aware of it being tuned and i have been going through everything being really nutty with it all. but i drive brand new car all day then get in it and the small issues are getting to me, and ive set my self the chellenge of getting it running as it would from factory, smooth flowing power utilising vanos and everything. also half of it is the fact that i want the vanos to work. but if i did get the m52 ecu setup going, is the computer tuneable? is the factory m52b28 computer tuneable. and the fact that the computer was tuned for a different engine with a differant cam setup and possible different injectors would disrupt the tune i think i read hybrids (not sure if it was his, think it was tho) e30 with s5x is fully wired up with ews. and hellbm help him with it, if i get stuck hes only 20 mins up the road. and andy is the computer that ran my engine from factory a factory manual? have found out you can never completely remove the issues that auto to manual swaps cause with e36 onwards computers. if it is factory manual, pm me

is there any reasons behind everyone converting there m52b28s to m50 looms and computers? im getting annoyed with the crapping running to start with and am considering swapping to a factory loom and computer. i know they are a hassle to set up but i would really love my car to run like factory, plus i want a challenge. and are the obd2 m52 computers tunable to suit differant intakes, injectors and exhausts? if theres any major reasons why people change then i wont go ahead but would still like to find out details. ps the engines in an e30 if it makes any differance

what condition it yours in?? got one with about 1000ks on a fresh rebuild that i brought, has a 3.25 ratio and is much to long for my preferance. cheers

what sort of driving has it had on this build? ever been over heated? any issues that youve ever had with it?

need some details for the car. mainly if its a 6 cyl or 4 cyl. depending on how you want it, i have e30 rear superlow kings and e30 4 cyl low front springs, perfer to sell with front struts at least. fronts are bilsteins so good stuff anyways. if its a 6 cyl you can still put this spring setup in, or so ive heard, sits well apparently but i never tested it. have some gas shocks somewhere for the rears aswell, if i find them ill chuck them in aswell, came in the car, were alot better than standard but not sure of age or anything. think they kyb ones. pm me if interested

wouldnt doing that vent fuel vapors into the engine bay or where ever it is you decide to vent it? honest question, thought it wouldnt be to happy letting fuel vapours get near hot things or sparky things haha. i spent the couple of minuites hooking it all up just to be safe, as hes said bmw put it there for a reason why not use it? it must do something purposefull

theres a guy in west auckland, not sure of his number anymore but goes by the name "srbmw" on here. other wise ray at hellbm, im sure he will

im seeing it just about every day now haha. intersection of tristram ave and wairau road at like 4:30 heading home from work. im the young guy thats always riding the bike round there. ridings a crap load cheaper than driving. saving up for wheels, cert and new steering rack so got to ride for a few months. cant wait to see it again with those new wheels on

is this in an e36? i had a m40b18 in my e30 and had a single mass from factory (or atleast as far as i know it did, could be wrong). not to sure how it would save much gas, wouldnt be that much weight differance, and didnt think an m40b16 would use much gas anyways.

saw this today, looked quite good. how do you like the manual vs auto? completely differant car?

well im slowly building the car up to become a track/street car, but im at the stage of getting all the things sorted for the cert. and because wheel specs are on the cert plate need to get them before i can get the car back out. so 17x9s with 235s will fit as road tyres? and how have you adjusted the rear camber? weld in tabs or some other method? also if you wouldnt mind, when your talking about slicks what does the 625 part (like in this 240/625r17) stand for/mean? thanks for all the help, would be awesome to see you guys at the track eventually when i get there

and i dont think youll be treating the clutch like he would have been either. drifters arnt very kind to there drivetrain. that looks awesome, any idea whats happened to it now hat its been sold?

soon i will be looking for some new mags for my e30, the whole point of doing this will be to get more rubber on the road. i currently have 215 40 17s and they are far from wide enough. my question to all the people out there that have fitted tyres to an e30 or are tyre spechialists. whats the widest wheel an e30 can take? without stretch of course. the cars built to perform and will be needing the grip when im finished

haha love the order. ...wof... then the seatbelt mounts, i need to find a wof guy like this, currently off the road due to no wof or cert. its all legitimate just engines a litre more than ment to be with 2 extra cylinders and more plans before i get my cert