slowe30

oh sweet haha, yea im in the the winger northshore workshop. off at the moment due to 2 broken feet (dont ask haha im stupid) but going back in soon. will just have to ask one of the salesmen for the keys haha

i started googling but ran out of time, search this and find an article that suits your car "e30 thermo switch wiring"

these should be staggered with 8.5" rears shouldnt they?

best way for us to tell will be with a photo, but with my car, on superlows allround and everything else suspension wise done/upgraded, the front sits higher than the back due to the height of the arches, but when focusing on the actual height of the car (looking at the height of the sills) the car does sit level as far as i can see. and thought i would add what ive experianced. i have king spring super lows all round, they are low enough but not so low i hit driveways etc, they are stable in cornering but not to hard or bouncy. ive had them for about 4 years now and used them in both e30s ive had, brought them second hand for my first e30. ill definatly reccomend them. had eibach springs for a little while, sat to high for my opinion, yet were to soft and would bottom out when going over bumps and driveways. cornering wise, they felt about on par as standard, and boatish around corners. wasnt happy and swapped back to the kings once i confirmed they would suit my new m52 setup.

im using a e30 m40 one, have never seen the temp rise above the centre and im not to mechanically kind either. if it was gonna get hot, it would have. and it all slots in to the factory mounts easily and has the hole in the side for the ac fan to be tuned on and off according to water temp

comming in this week? thought it was a few weeks away. will have to test one out once work brings one in

thats rhd is it not?? but totally agree with the build quality, total rubish, and the amount of thought that goes into the cars is so minimal and is obvess. and a 8.1L suv, all the read there is unnessasary and afaid of corners due to weight

i recently was able to get the diff out and have another look/take some more photos. sorry its been so long, ive been on crutches since just after this topic was posted and havent been able to get to the back of the storage area i use to recheck the diff. in this picture i think is the culprit, the bolts that go into the diff itself, there are 6 of them. let me know if you need to know anything else and ill try get back to you asap. the origonal post will be updated in a few moments to show whats still there aswell

im looking at getting this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-530964965.htm to use the block and head with my b28 crank rods and pistions and create a stroker thats strong. but at this stage dont want to have to rebuild the head, just skim and refit after the new internals are in. does anyone know about it, and does anyone know how m50 heads last with high ks? obvesly it is mostly based on maintenece but im just looking at a general guide line Cheers

i also remember them noting all the compession pressures, but were caught out with not checking them. and out of the 5 things they(tv crew) had left for them(AA) to find they only found 2 or 3

ive got a disk rear end if ya wanna buy it? and as far as i know they dont need to be certed as it is a factory fitment kinda thing. if it comes factory then you can fit it. also theres nowhere that says 'this car had drums' so no one would be the wiser

your link is trying to take us into your watchlist or something along those lines. doesnt work

the m52 exhaust manifold is higher flowing but has a little bit of restriction where it bolts to the head. a little die grinder will remove that and then its is much better. the m50 version is a cast log drsign and rough on the inside reducing flow

bmws run something like 2 bar water pressure to raise the boiling point of the water. that much pressure will make the hoses rock hard, when the engines cold, take the radiator cap off and bleed screw out aswell, the fill the resivour up and over fill it. start the engine then proceed to continue over filling it, keep doing it till all bubbles have stopped comming out the bleed screw. if possibly have the front of the car raised up so the air is pushed up more towards the cap.

bump, everything else is there and just taking up space

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=42322 theres an m50 manifold in there and your not on the north shore are you? your car description sounds oddly familar

gearbox sold and collected. springs sold pending payment and collection. everything else is still there

i had just one drivers seat in my old car when i went to vtnz for a wof, left the belts in the back evan. got pulled over one day as a "random" check aswell and they just asked why it was like that. i had damp carpet so removed it all to dry out and just put one seat in to get me to work an back. and i thought door cards and pillar trims have to on aswell for internal protection rules, but could be wrong

gearbox sold pending payment and pickup. will double check with the diff, thats what i was told it is when i got it. how many bolts does a large case have? it didnt look like the small and medium cases ive had so i belived him

Have some stuff thats just taking up space, would prefer not to have to ship them, but will drop off at a depo if you organise it and pay for it all. pm with questions or offers, will consider everything. Cheers e30 325i rear sway bar - $50 e36 16" wheels, very very minor curbing on one rim, tread depths - 4mm 3mm 7mm 7mm - $300 m50 intake manifold - $150 m52 intake manifold - $50 e30 rear subframe/diskbrake conversion - $200 e34 525i medium?? case diff, 3.91 ratio, slight damage on rear cover - $100

drove one a while back and it handled amazingly, didnt go very fast but defintaly corners great. and toyota have done a good job on the auto gearbox to, shifted fast and when you told it to, no delays. just waiting for subaru to bring out an sti version, subaru have never realeased a non turbo sti and at my guess they will continue that. Ahh the benifits of working at a dealership. and the engines not a ej20, its a completely new engine realsed eariler this year in the new designed forester, its not got fancy vvt on both intake and exhaust (i think, might only be intake on some models) chain drive, and alot more, thats just the ones i can remember. and its called an FB20

all i can think about is the switches like people use on there deisels so they dont have to pay ruc's, so dodgy cars would just have to turn off the oddometre and they would be away sailing. unless the linked it into both, say a year or xxxx Ks

is there anyone whose interested in fabracating some strut braces for an e30? or know of a place that will do it well and not charge the earth my front struts have always been slightly mushrooming from the stiff springs i have and the only strut braces on trademe or in nz that i have found are only 2 point and wouldnt fix this issue. plus i want something realy tough looking, something like this would be awesome (sorry for linking through to your built, just love that brace so much haha) http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....9466&st=135 also a rear one like this that braces up the diff and strenthens the whole strut up aswell http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=bmw-e...-rear-strut-bar ive never liked the idea of my diff ripping itself out of the car and want to prepare it for what im wanting to throw at it, also more bracing is never a bad thing.

well the bushes are in, 95 e36 m3 rack installed, got it back out and started driving it a bit. its amazing compared to how it used to be. also noticed my camber is now all within spec to pass a cert after i installed the bushes, so can only assume that the akg 75d derilin bushes decreased camber slightly. but best news of all, its handles awesome, cant wait to get it to a track and try keep up with some of the other e30s. this will be my first time on a track so nothing amazing will happen but if i keep up the the e30 series cars (the 318i's) then ill be happy at this stage. if i was to look for a track tyre thats not to overly priced, preferably a semi slick along the lines of r888's, was else stacks up there with them. will also be looking for a set of 15x7s et40 to use as track wheels

i got a 260 from an e30 down stairs, pm me if interested