slowe30

just incase you dont know, slip on ones are illegal. only bolt of ones with a centre hub that fits the mag are allowed in new zealand. and smalled they go i think is 20mm. theres some good ones on trademe but i guess youve looked there by the way, whats the stud pattern your after??

do you need the complete strut? like spring shock and all or just the strut itself. may be able tohelp out, will have a look in the garage tomorrow when i get the chance

just for a little info, the diffs they are talking about are some times referred to as small and medium case diffs, but lsd's will generally go for around the 800 mark. they are great diffs and actually use a propper lsd setup unlike nissans etc. and before you go out and get one, look into he ratio of the one you currently have and work off that to see what will work. just for a quick note i have a 3.25 ratio lsd behind my 2.8l e30 and i think its much to long but then again that could just be my opinion and someone else may say the opposite .

after fiddling around for ages with mine and finally got it working. talked to a guy at my work (ex bmw mechanic/current mechanic) he told me due to the position of the bleed nipple you have to remove the slave from the box, turn it upside down compared to what it usually is, push the rod all the way in, then bleed as normal. we have to do this on subaru legacys due to the same issue, worth a try. btw with mine i put a slave on it that came with my new engine and box, bleed the system, tested and it just went to the floor, keep bleeding and did nothing, i then swapped back to my old slave that i had on my old box, put it on and checked it then, it felt great and worked fine, didnt evan bleed it to start with. then got it running and took it to work and used the vaccume bleeder from work on it and felt great still, maybe evan a little better.

just think of it this way, you do the head job, you know everything will be fine on the engine and know at least some of the history. where as a second hand engine, might go to all that work, and get it running and a week later blow the head gasket in that. isay definatly do the gasket and stick with the knowen engine

ive got an m52 e30. you can come look if ya like, no driving tho as its out of wof and cant get a new one till i finish it and cert it. it is certanly alot of fun to drive. theres no cutting, only thing in the way is the brake booster and there are many options out there that will fit. i didnt however setup the engine to run on the m50 wiring harness so not sure i can help you with that, but can help with the harness adapter and just about anything else. also search the conversion on google, there are many 24v e30s out there

i have a 4.1 ratio small case diff in the garage that is no longer needed. was removed while doing my 2.8 conversion and was only ever run on an auto 1.8l. i dont think pictures are really nessasary as all diffs look the same, but if someone needs a picture ill try get one up. looking for 200 ono but pm me your offer cheers

ill just chime in and say, yea 4.45 will give quicker acceleration and more revs in 5th at any given speed. it makes a slightly noticable differance when you change from a 4.1 to a 4.45 but nothing great.

try cleaning the idle contol systems and check the maf sensor for debris. if still not solved check for any vacume leaks. my m52 sounded like it had lumpy cams, turned out one of the injector seals were completly shot and was letting air in there. was also making a ticking noise. just make sure you give it a decent look over, ive got a lightend flywheel and my idle is smooth,very very smooth. also with the fan, and e34 fan is bigger so that might evan be another idea, this is how i have done it. just requires some brackets to hold it in place but they arnt hard to put together. and control it using the sensor andy mentioned. and sorry cant help with the throttle cable issue

changing the booster has been thought of alot because of the m5x conversions. ive got a porshe one and it still feals very bad. something i have though of tho is if there are any bushes or joints that could wear out in the brake pedal linkage system. id check that out before doing anything to the booster master cyl. ive got a big brake setup and sucked the system through at my work with the vaccum bleeder so know nothing is at fault there. it still feals horrible untill you stand on it though, then starts getting some fealing further down but definatly not enough

its that intake cam that i guess is causing a few little issues then, and if he had m50 injectors and youve used m52 ones (which are larger) then thayll need to be tuned in aswell. not replacing the injectors, just the seal around them. all these things can cause issues with tune for the engine, and it would be good to just make sure its not leaning out at any point in the rev range, as this could cause an engine faliure. can someone chime in here, what colour are m50 injectors and what colour are m52 ones? mine are pink

ok scratch that last post of mine, turned out to be a pipe that had burst in such a way that it sprayed onto the gap between the head and block and apeared to be comming out of the gap. so its just a simple heater hose which i have ordered and am getting tomorrow, also found the reason it sounded like it had a tick was due to the injector seals into the intake were old and tired and not seated propperly and was a quick sound of vacume repetedly. this with a tick which was cured with an engine flush and new oil. decided while i have the intake off that ill fix some of the wiring birdsnest aswell, starting with getting a temp guage. and andy, the m52 would be a nice option if it was a tad stronger, thats why the us guys love their cast iron versions. but the alloy is to weak between the cylinders to put much boost into ive heard. and i know if i do put a turbo on, it wont be set on a low 5psi or anything. ill want real power and go for gold. so stronger engine is preferable. guess the turbo setup is now on hold again. also who is the engine tuner everyone seems to use in auckland. i remember the name gavin being thrown around but never heard a place he works at or where in the country he is in. im looking at getting it tuned up a little to try sop it coughing a little in the low rev range, which i guess is due to the cams not being right for the tune it has. cheers

update time... been going awesome recently, handling way better than it used to and im getting used to everything aswell, i was at the point of finishing off the last couple of things then was going to cert it. but on my way home last night, some steam was comming from the bonnet, opened it up and it apeared to be comming from the back close to the firewall, under the intake manifold. my guess so far is headgasket due to it looking like it was bubbling out between a joining of the head and block. will confirm in a couple of days. if my suspisions are correct i will be looking for a m50b25 non vanos, preferibly lower ks, but dont mind headgasket being gone in it, as i will be replacing to lower compression a little and fit head studs. i will then start to prepare for a m50 turbo build. this will take some time, and will be a huge work in progress. also, does anyone know if a getrag 240 handle this, ive been told they are very strong but havent heard of one being used behind a turbo setup

as far as i remember everything else worked. i think the heater fan would also turn off when it stopped working or something stupid like that. anyway that what caused my problem, imkinda just saying think outside the box haha. i surely had to

i had this issue after doing my conversion, tried swapping the dash cluster and still the same. after some hunting i found one of the earth wires for the interior electics was becomming quite touchy. i never found the conecting point of the earth to the body (the manual i had said it was under the carpet by the passengers seat) so i found the wires within the fuse box and gave them a secure grounding. not sure if this has any chance of being relevant but still worth a try.

saw this yesterday, looked absolutly awesome. i was in the e30 on ramp road then followed you out by the cop station. my plate was BOMBMW if you remember. very good work, stunning car

selling his daily, check it out.

in the 3rd photo, in the bottom right that chip/plug sets the revs to suit a 4 pot or a 6 pot. swap that over and try again. i made the mistake a while back and wondered why it would on rev out to 4k with the 4 cyl.

i cant garrentee its fatory tuning in the computer. but mine goes out to 7k. would love to know what there ment to go to and what they can handle when pushing limits a little

bump. anyone out there got one?

ive had a few issues with e30s leaking and none of the ones ive seen have had sun roofs. so it is quite possible it isnt the sun roof. and easiest way to find the leak, lift the carpet (or atleast the part that your concerned about) and get someone to spray water all over the car in every which direction they can think of, from up under the car aswell. if you see any water found the leak and fix the hole.

e30 IS front lip spoiler. not sure what their worth but since mother nature decided she wanted my normal lip i decided to upgrade at the same time. and my lip was never really secure, not sure if theres ment to be any screws in the ends or something but if there is would be awesome if i could get them aswell

if you still need details, pm me specific things you need to know and the details (year and model) of the car its out of and ill check at work. if its fairly new i could get pdf's other wise scanning will have to do. i work at the subaru dealership in the workshop so we have most work books for older cars and all CDs for the new ones

does anyone know a good car carpet cleaning product that will work well for my e30? the interior has been stripped (due to highly excessive dampness/puddles). heard something a few years back about old deteriorating carpet needing a gently cleaner and to just try stay away from it, but once i got it out and looked at it i realised nothing could make it look worse. thanks

does anyone know of a good looking offset to use on e30s. i dont want poke and stretch cus i cant afford new tires at the moment, but due to the fact that i need to buy a set of spacers does anyone know what will fit best. its a 17x7 rim with et40 offset, with 215/40/17s. ive already got 20mm spacers for the front as they were urgent (big brake kit didnt fit behind the mag) but kinda want it a little wider in the rear. if 25mm spacers will fit in the rear with out to much guard rolling ill use them other wise ill just get another set of 20mm. thanks in advance