nick496

Havent had any issues using the e36 radiator and m20 tank on my swap. Just have to cut the hose coming out of the expansion tank to suit. My issue currently is trying to get the E36 airbox go fit around it haha.

Good progress, interesting seeing how it's all going, as I have to do all of this to my touring also. So the headlining wasn't too much of a hassle? Looking at mine, and it will need to be done soonish.

I did try it in the reverse position, and it is straight, but points all the way to the rear of the car, so probably need a longer rod. But like Rubix, I don't think I'll mind too much, since it points closer. Sadly still have a lot of slop in the shifter, most which seems to all be coming from the gearbox pin itself, as the play in the bushing themselves is minimal, but the overall play is massive.

Currently waiting for a friend to weld up my exhaust so I can go for a drive that's more than just up and down the street. So I spent the weekend wrestling with my wiring, making that all tidy. While I was at it, I decided to track down why my electric windows wouldn't work with the doors open, and the key off. All my fuses were fine, and had good power. Ended up going through and cutting out my immobilizer, just to be sure that wasn't the issue. But no, it turned out that someone had plugged the power input for the blue relay under the glovebox into pin S of the accessory connector, so the window switches only got power with the key in the ignition. I swapped it into pin Z, and everything worked as expected. Finally have that feature I'll use twice a year working.

After a working Oil Level sensor that sits at the bottom of the sump. Figured I'd see if there is one second hand before buying new.

Time for a bit of an update. Got the driveshaft shortened and balanced, which ran me less than $250, which was a decent chunk less than a 325i driveshaft someone was willing to part with. So got that installed this weekend, and the wheels turn! It was a very satisfying moment. Exhaust was not fully done, but couldn't help myself and drove up and down the street making a large amount of noise. Now I have an interesting issue. While doing the swap, I've put in a Z3 1.9 shifter, and replaced the gearshift rod joint, and also the plastic washers. My shifter does not sit straight when installed, but points about 10 degrees towards the driver. However the arm that holds the shifter is sitting straight, and fully in line with the transmission tunnel, and the gearbox sits fine on it's original mount. Here it is in 3rd: Here it is in 3rd with my pushing it to the left: The shifter itself has a bend, presumably this is supposed to be countered by some parts? Anyone got some ideas as to why? I'm pretty sure all I need to do is heat up the selector rod and twist it to counter the bend in the shifter. So now just have to get the exhaust welded up, and tidy up a bunch of things before going in for a cert.

Hi guys Bit of an odd one, I've got a UK 320i, and I don't have any of the AC loom. Any chance anyone has a spare parts car that has one on? http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Retrofitting_Aircon#Wiring At the moment just wanting to wire in a puller fan (which I can sort out easily enough), but thinking I may want to retrofit AC at a later date, so would rather the whole appropriate loom. Happy to pull it out myself if car is located near Hamilton.

Do you know what the part number is for that? Engine/ gearbox combo? I've got a brand new shifter carrier for a 320i.

The main things I always manage to snap if they haven't been out before is the door trims. The ones on my touring were very firmly in there, and managed to snap the trim pulling it out. Order that I take it all out in: -Front Seats -Base of rear seat -Door trim -B Pillar covers -Centre console -Make cuts around centre console -Pull out carpet Found it easier to flop it all onto one side, then manoeuver it out the front door. Have it down to about 30minutes now.

I've pulled the carpet out of e30s numerous times. Never removed the dash though, as I just made some cuts around the heater core, and leave a segment in there, as you will never see the split in the carpet. But up to you if you want to go that route.

I do have one, have flicked you a PM

Will check my parts bin tonight for you.

Hopefully for the July monthly meet, but depends on how the touring is going.

So tried them on the E30, they didn't fit. Tried on the E46, also didn't fit.

I don't think they'll fit, as they don't have a BMW stamp on them, and were pulled from a car with very strange seat belts.

And bump

A diesel or a petrol X5? Jap or Euro import? Polley pls advise. On a serious note, spent the weekend working on trying to get it started. EWS seemed to be clicking open, and I was cranking fine, though just wouldn't start. After a bit of investigation, turns out all the wiring on the crank sensor had molded together, so while the engine was running before I pulled it out, it must have only just been hanging in there, so with all the movement, it must have rubbed together. Strange that the diagnostic tool didn't pull that up though. So after a trip up to Auckland at 2:30PM to Pick A Part to get another crank sensor, swapped it over and was greeted with this: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AW644AbB4N1zGZc9VFCwTF5VFZMTz8W3uw Laid it all out and trimmed out the auto parts of the loom this evening. Cheers to Andy as his thread from 2010 on R3V, as that wiring diagram was pretty much bang on. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=1988202&postcount=44

Will take the Oxygen Sensor.

Good stuff Jamez Was trying to find some answers and it seemed all the best one were here.

Ah Adro, I see you have seen my thread... As for heights differences with the B12 kit, see here: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54588-e30-touring-m52-swap/?p=597892 Will be slightly different seeing as it's a touring, but you get the idea. Ride is pretty cushy, but still responsive as Graham says. H&Rs would be a lot firmer, and also offer more of a drop. An excellent choice though, and something that I'm considering moving to later on.

And I now have the replacement. Cost around $80 from the BMW dealer.

Sounds like a plan, will hit up Mosens. Will still need to get it balanced afterwards anyway.

And to tidy up a few more lose ends. I've swapped the Revshift motor mounts around, since they're made in the US, and they'd be labeled for RHD The Engine arms are still on the original sides of the engines. And the gearbox mounts are also Revshift poly mounts. Gearbox bolts up nice and straight on the original bracket, and engine is sitting in there fine. As for sump clearance, it's fine for now, but can take some photos tonight. Driveshaft shortening, I'm just holding off on that until I get my replacement shifter arm, as I'm still not confident just yet that it will show. But it should show up next week.

So based on what I've found, an e36 325i manual driveshaft may do the trick. Though based on all of the options (different driveshaft, m40 gearbox, shortening), just shortening the driveshaft would probably would out the cheapest with the least hassle at this point.

The only other place I found mentioning prop lengths differences was here comparing an M42 240 with an M40 240. http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=ui2n3eo94rkmjr6tlr5pdrtn74&topic=9583.msg78289#msg78289 Not sure if that's something that's easily fixable though, as presumably the shaft runs the whole length of the gearbox.