nick496

Currently waiting for a friend to weld up my exhaust so I can go for a drive that's more than just up and down the street. So I spent the weekend wrestling with my wiring, making that all tidy. While I was at it, I decided to track down why my electric windows wouldn't work with the doors open, and the key off. All my fuses were fine, and had good power. Ended up going through and cutting out my immobilizer, just to be sure that wasn't the issue. But no, it turned out that someone had plugged the power input for the blue relay under the glovebox into pin S of the accessory connector, so the window switches only got power with the key in the ignition. I swapped it into pin Z, and everything worked as expected. Finally have that feature I'll use twice a year working.

After a working Oil Level sensor that sits at the bottom of the sump. Figured I'd see if there is one second hand before buying new.

Time for a bit of an update. Got the driveshaft shortened and balanced, which ran me less than $250, which was a decent chunk less than a 325i driveshaft someone was willing to part with. So got that installed this weekend, and the wheels turn! It was a very satisfying moment. Exhaust was not fully done, but couldn't help myself and drove up and down the street making a large amount of noise. Now I have an interesting issue. While doing the swap, I've put in a Z3 1.9 shifter, and replaced the gearshift rod joint, and also the plastic washers. My shifter does not sit straight when installed, but points about 10 degrees towards the driver. However the arm that holds the shifter is sitting straight, and fully in line with the transmission tunnel, and the gearbox sits fine on it's original mount. Here it is in 3rd: Here it is in 3rd with my pushing it to the left: The shifter itself has a bend, presumably this is supposed to be countered by some parts? Anyone got some ideas as to why? I'm pretty sure all I need to do is heat up the selector rod and twist it to counter the bend in the shifter. So now just have to get the exhaust welded up, and tidy up a bunch of things before going in for a cert.

Hi guys Bit of an odd one, I've got a UK 320i, and I don't have any of the AC loom. Any chance anyone has a spare parts car that has one on? http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Retrofitting_Aircon#Wiring At the moment just wanting to wire in a puller fan (which I can sort out easily enough), but thinking I may want to retrofit AC at a later date, so would rather the whole appropriate loom. Happy to pull it out myself if car is located near Hamilton.

Do you know what the part number is for that? Engine/ gearbox combo? I've got a brand new shifter carrier for a 320i.

The main things I always manage to snap if they haven't been out before is the door trims. The ones on my touring were very firmly in there, and managed to snap the trim pulling it out. Order that I take it all out in: -Front Seats -Base of rear seat -Door trim -B Pillar covers -Centre console -Make cuts around centre console -Pull out carpet Found it easier to flop it all onto one side, then manoeuver it out the front door. Have it down to about 30minutes now.

I've pulled the carpet out of e30s numerous times. Never removed the dash though, as I just made some cuts around the heater core, and leave a segment in there, as you will never see the split in the carpet. But up to you if you want to go that route.

I do have one, have flicked you a PM

Will check my parts bin tonight for you.

Hopefully for the July monthly meet, but depends on how the touring is going.

So tried them on the E30, they didn't fit. Tried on the E46, also didn't fit.

I don't think they'll fit, as they don't have a BMW stamp on them, and were pulled from a car with very strange seat belts.

And bump

A diesel or a petrol X5? Jap or Euro import? Polley pls advise. On a serious note, spent the weekend working on trying to get it started. EWS seemed to be clicking open, and I was cranking fine, though just wouldn't start. After a bit of investigation, turns out all the wiring on the crank sensor had molded together, so while the engine was running before I pulled it out, it must have only just been hanging in there, so with all the movement, it must have rubbed together. Strange that the diagnostic tool didn't pull that up though. So after a trip up to Auckland at 2:30PM to Pick A Part to get another crank sensor, swapped it over and was greeted with this: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AW644AbB4N1zGZc9VFCwTF5VFZMTz8W3uw Laid it all out and trimmed out the auto parts of the loom this evening. Cheers to Andy as his thread from 2010 on R3V, as that wiring diagram was pretty much bang on. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=1988202&postcount=44

Will take the Oxygen Sensor.

Good stuff Jamez Was trying to find some answers and it seemed all the best one were here.

Ah Adro, I see you have seen my thread... As for heights differences with the B12 kit, see here: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54588-e30-touring-m52-swap/?p=597892 Will be slightly different seeing as it's a touring, but you get the idea. Ride is pretty cushy, but still responsive as Graham says. H&Rs would be a lot firmer, and also offer more of a drop. An excellent choice though, and something that I'm considering moving to later on.

And I now have the replacement. Cost around $80 from the BMW dealer.

Sounds like a plan, will hit up Mosens. Will still need to get it balanced afterwards anyway.

And to tidy up a few more lose ends. I've swapped the Revshift motor mounts around, since they're made in the US, and they'd be labeled for RHD The Engine arms are still on the original sides of the engines. And the gearbox mounts are also Revshift poly mounts. Gearbox bolts up nice and straight on the original bracket, and engine is sitting in there fine. As for sump clearance, it's fine for now, but can take some photos tonight. Driveshaft shortening, I'm just holding off on that until I get my replacement shifter arm, as I'm still not confident just yet that it will show. But it should show up next week.

So based on what I've found, an e36 325i manual driveshaft may do the trick. Though based on all of the options (different driveshaft, m40 gearbox, shortening), just shortening the driveshaft would probably would out the cheapest with the least hassle at this point.

The only other place I found mentioning prop lengths differences was here comparing an M42 240 with an M40 240. http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=ui2n3eo94rkmjr6tlr5pdrtn74&topic=9583.msg78289#msg78289 Not sure if that's something that's easily fixable though, as presumably the shaft runs the whole length of the gearbox.

Righto, so to answer all of the questions: Driveshaft length, I took these measurements with it still mostly bolted in the car, so won't be 100% Diff flange to Centre Bearing is 800mm Centre to gearbox flange 670mm Total length 1470mm Which based off the e30zone wiki, is more like a 318/325 manual driveshaft, not a 320 manual, which is longer. Which makes me think it's the gearbox rear flange sitting further back on the 318i, as I noted in post 49 As you can sort of see with the photos, the front of the flange is in line with the centre of the guibo, with the driveshaft collapsed as far as it can go. In terms of mounts, I'm using the RevShift 24V swap mounts, so they are all angled. Put the Revshift mounts on opposite sides of the labels, so that should be fine since they're for LHD. Using just the standard E36 arms in their original location. So that all seems to be correct Drivers: Passengers: How the whole engine sits: As for the steering linkage, totally forgot to take more photos before putting it in. Both Astra/Barina seem to work the same. Take the top off and replace it with the E30 join. Had to also file down the 'master' spline on the rack end, and also a bit off the rack to allow the bolt to slide through. Mine didn’t come out the tidiest after pressing in the bushings. Found that when flexing the join in my hand, it felt a bit jerky when moving it slowly, but bolted up and feels smooth with the front jacked up. Can't comment on actual drivability though.

Exactly Andy. Part number is 25-11-1-220-759, and was around $80. But it's yet to arrive, so that may change.

I'm using an M42 Getrag 240 with a manual 320i driveshaft, and it's probably about 20mm too long, even after collapsing the driveshaft to the shortest it can. Trying to get it all jointed together and I can't seem to get the driveshaft to bolt up to the gearbox correctly. I can JUST get it into the guibo if I drop the gearbox, and then bolt up the centre bearing. But then the gearbox gets pushed on an angle, and won't come straight. I think it may be that the diff has been swapped from a small to a medium which may be my issue. Any ideas on this one?