nick496

Do you have some more details on the front control arm bushes for E30? Manufacturer?

That's how much I paid for a set of average weaves without caps last year. I got caps through ebay UK, and cost about $50 each >.> Maybe hit up Andy to see when he's next doing a run across the country.

I have an e46 328i. Mate had a 318i. Both had very silimar fuel consumption around the 10-11l per 100km around Hamilton.

The first car I got for the wife was a pulsar, which had ABS and airbags, and all the nice little dings. She loved it. Got her a nice E46 328i, and now she complains about the running costs. First car, hard to beat the pulsar. Do love my E30 though.

Surprised this sold for 10k, was thinking around 6. My car is pretty much identical, though it doesn't have the M badge. Maybe M badges at 4K of value? Surely you would be better off with this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-845200909.htm

That's a shame. Cool car in Hamilton had great service when they did my E46 a couple of months ago. Though prices for servicing parts were rather extortionate. $200 for the AC Drier (USD $34 for a Behr one on Pelican)

Split my 'new' sunroof open, thanks to actletpone's thread: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52230-e30-325i-alpine/ Mine was also pretty bad, but it all appears to be surface rust. Not sure if I should get it acid dipped or just wirebrush/grinder it myself

Yeah, if you could post some pics that would be great. Figured I'd need to sand it all back anyway to get it painted in the right colour, so no issues there.

After a sunroof that has no rust to replace my rusty one. If anyone has a straight panel hiding in the back of their garage, would be keen to get my hands on it. Cheers

Would recommend Trends. Excellent service there. Haven't had any issues with their headunit install they did in my friends Honda.

Bump

Have a set of genuine ACS rims. All in Bridgestone MY-02's (205/50) with 6mm tread all round. Painted black by previous owner, and all have a bit of curbing on the lips. Being black it's a bit harder to see most of it. Wanting 1k

You'll have to pull out the whole cluster. It's the copper nut + washer that sits behind the gauge. http://www.exx.se/maintenance/fuel_temp_gauges_e30/index.shtml

Being Andy, I guess it would be this one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-797776586.htm

That's a decent price. Should go fairly quick.

Thought I'd update this with what fixed the issue: Took it into my mechanic, told them it was overheating when idling. (Temperature gauge sitting a good few mm to the right of the centre) They ran a pressure test, replaced a few hose clamps. Ran it again, no issues with leaks. Still showing overheating temp when idling, so that isn't the issue. They got the temp gun on it. Showed normal temperature. Turns out the fix was to tighten the ground screw on the cluster. -I had heard of this ground screw, but had dismissed it due to my temp gauge not flickering. (Not relevant to reading high) But I was wrong. Temps now showing normal.

Found the issue. Checking continuity from the central locking control unit on the wires to the drivers door solenoid, and noticed it wasn't getting power on the lock or unlock signal. Traced all the wiring back to the control unit, and found that the guys who ripped out my remote central locking (prior to me owning the car), didn't rejoin the connections from the control unit back to the drivers door solenoid. So what was happening was when you locked from the passengers side, it sent the lock to all doors through the control unit, but the drivers door never got the power to lock. So after a second, the drivers door says "Hey guys, what are you doing? I'm unlocked over here" and force the doors back to the unlocked state through the control unit. Rejoined both the power wires back to the central control unit, and all working as expected now.

Nice purchases. If you're unable to use those Hartge rims, I'm sure I can take them off your hands

Hi Guys Have a small issue with my 1990 325i Sedan. From the drivers door, everything unlocks/locks fine (except for the fuel flap, but I know I need to replace that actuator) However from the boot, I am unable to lock/unlock my drivers door. Every other door unlocks fine though. -So if all the doors are unlocked, and I try to lock from the boot, all the locks (excluding the drivers) lock, then because the drivers door is still unlocked they go back to being unlocked. -If all the doors are unlocked, and I try to unlock from the boot, passengers and rear doors unlock but drivers door stays locked. Any ideas? I'm thinking perhaps the drivers solenoid isn't too flash. Thanks Nick

Also keen, have Flicked you a text.

Here you go, sorry for the quality, thought they would turn out better. The aluminum bits aren't pushed into the bushings yet, so that's why they look a bit out of place

I've got a subframe with Derlin subframe mounts already in them if you're interested. I don't believe it's raised though.

Having done this recently by taking it out of the car, then paying someone to push in the bushings. I would recommend making a tool and doing it while it's still on the car if you're just doing the subframe bushings.. That said, I also got the trailing arm bushings done at the same time, which I think need to be done with the subframe off.

Yeah, would try testing/replacing the fuses/relays first. This guy reckons the K7 relay: http://bmwe30network.net/forums/read.php?3,8221 Which since your mirrors don't work, sounds like like your best bet. Swap them around for one that works.

On the work corolla used Brasso to clean them up. That was about 6 months ago, and they're starting to cloud up again. I think there is an actual pack that removes the yellowing, then you apply another product to create a protective coating. I'm sure someone else has had some experience with that around here.