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Of course not for the rears, but I only said the fronts

I did say in the diagram post that you wouldn't find movement near to as shown in real life. * Oh and yes, the wheel will come in once the arm gets past horizontal, but still gain camber untill the 90 degree point from pivot>hub ball joint>strut top.

Still need spring compressers on E30 fronts girly

People can be biased when it comes to Toe settings. But it's another win-lose kind of adjustment, you can win mid corner grip and lose stability (toe out), or vice versa I see no need for front end stabilty when you have the steering wheel in your hands, if the car goes off line at all it takes is a 1/10 of a second to react and move the wheel 10 degrees (can make the dead middle zone in the e30 rack feel even more dead). But mid corner grip is fantastic on a front heavy car.. If you think about toe out when turning, the inside is turned at a greater angle, sort of pulling the inside of the car around the corner by taking a shorter line. So many other factors though. I like it. Ooo a good webby site read http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

You are going to gain camber at the front by lowering untill the control arm passes by 90 degrees in relation to the strut (in pink) My quick little pic shows how at different heights the strut is at different angles. I've shown a massive range of motion which you wouldn't actually get in reality. The angle between the wheel and strut is always the same (angle x on the pink and black heights) See the angle between the arm and strut on in green is very acute, so lots of camber gain when you get a bit of body roll happening.. And the angle between the arm and strut in the pink is 90 degrees: max static camber but you will lose negitive camber when getting the turns on, and this folks is why it is bad to lower your car too much... (Or you can run it really low and have stiff springs to match, to stop the arm and strut going past this 90 degree threshhold.) (Or you can run camber plates so the top of the strut shifts to the right in this example, and the car can be lowered more because the 90 degree threshold will be furthur away) *claified picture showing the 90 degree angle I mean (in yellow)

Looks like the vibrations from the Delrin caused the 4 bolts holding the mounting arms to the block to back out and cause the crack. Will be locktited in when I get a new one. Same thing happened to my oil cooler lines and coolant gauge in the dash from the vibs. sucks, but now I know how to deal with it. Tightened the remaining 2 bolts on the arm and no more creeks for the cruise

Urethane is for softies. Real men use Delrin. I've just changed rear brake pads and done a rish assessment on the crack (handbrake on and try to drive) to see how much the engine moves. It should be ok if I take it easy with smooth gear changes tonight at the cruise. Still wanting a mount arm though, cheaper the better at this stage. (read: 10 bucks or less ha)

Wrecker was going to be the last option. Not doubt they want 1000 dollars for something they have a billion of.

Need it within 2 hours unfortunately. If I don't get one today I'll keep that in mind..

Look at this! Christ these AKG 75D engine mount bushings are doing more harm than good..

I somehow seemed to have snapped one of these arms in half, been noticing a creeeking the passt week and now it's about to completely sheer.. The left one when looking forward. Need it before the Summer megacar cruise tonight, so people in chch, if you have a M20 block doing f**k all I'll happily take the mounting arm off you. THANKS

And holy f**king crap, not a E30 (E36), but it's how you drive a E36 M3 on gravel without lifting the throttle at balls out speed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-hOxd79MQY

Couple of M3 rally vids. Very impressive tarmac and dirt stage. Note the brilliant oversteer with minimal countersteer on a lot of curves (how I drive my car untill the LSD overheats and gives up..) And pure ridiculous pace in another M3:

wat

Fair enough, bit harsh yes. My main point was that other companies do make better quality stuff.

Awesome! Take that round the aves as-is

For a Camber plate sized package I'd say around 30-40 NZD.

Sorry to hear really guys. I'll just leave this here..

I lol-ed haha. I speak the cold, hard truth of done-the-research though.

I question the quality of yours John, IE make absoluetly sh*t products. They make good reinforcement kits and what not, but pieces of kit are done much better by other companies. The only 2 camber plates you should be buying are Vorshalg and Ground Control. http://www.ground-control-store.com/produc...php/II=142/CA=8 http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?c...;products_id=29 Note that the GC ones have much more adjustment, if that applies to you, and are cheaper. I got -3.4 degrees of front camber from mine at a sensible ride height.

Spotted at 3.38 am on Kilmarnock St: Crazyarab looking shiney. And today at 11am on Manchester St, turning onto Lichfield, one of my favorite cars ever: Honda NSX. Red, loud. Gave him a huge thumbs up and he took it to redline down lichfield, the V6 growling then howling and echoing off the buildings (and getting a little loose). Was amazing.

For every hot woman in the world there is a guy tired of putting up with her sh*t.

E34 525i, grey/beige, with massive chromes, lowered to the pavement, M badge (which was painted all red and black) and a exxhauzt. I did a: and he did a ricer-fly-by. Good on ya bro.

Ohhh snap. Indeed.

Get asymmetric, then rotate tires from front to back on the same side and corner a bit harder, bam, even wear. Don't even need to take tires off the rims.