Allanw

I put RE002's on the E39. While it's not a powerhouse, there are certain places the traction control had to work hard with the old tyres in the wet. With the Potenzas, it comes on FAR less, even with provocation! They're a very good tyre for the price - they pretty cheap (I think ours were just over $900 for the set). When Dads E30 is due, I'll tell him to get these too - he always wants good wet performance for the rare occasions that Mum drives They're not the quietest of tyres, but are by no means loud, and don't have variation in the noise at certain speeds like some directional tyres seem to have (some seem to get rumbles or resonances). I don't know about the Falken at all, but I'd go the RE002, just because I'm very happy with them. The Tread pattern does look good - not too chunky on the edges (some tyres look like 4WD tyres!) and being assymetric, you can rotate them around easily, if you're into that.

Just checking..... you remember left-hand thread... right? You're hitting towards the passenger side? right? Left?

anything is repairable (with enough skill/money etc). I once brought a Suzuki Van for Dad with a run big end... the guy who I brought it off (it was his Dairy van) went to all the effort of stripping the engine down, put a new pair of bearing shells in, then sealed EVERYTHING back together with red silicone. Including the head gasket. When he fitted the new bearing shells, not only did he not clean up/grind the crank, but he left the old shells in with it!!!! It didn't run too quietly! So we had a crank that had worn about 5mm off the journal, and was a lovely blue colour. We had the crank spray-welded up to the right diameter and then ground it back to the right size. Worst case is something similar for the S62, but I'd have thought like said above - grind to suit oversize shells and reassemble (with a supercharger for efficiency and safety etc).

You guys don't have picnic tables either though.

Even more proof. Get a life.

They're not rare as a V8 or 728i, a V12 shorty is substantially rarer though. Seemingly a lot of people think the SWB looks better - I'm one of them - the proportions look better to me.

Wow - thats a LOT of wank in only two posts. Especially after proving you know less than you thought you did.

The symptoms make me think differently, but the video sounds like a spark plug may have stripped and been blown out. Worth a look.

It will have pumped up the lifters probably. Cold thick oil at high pressure can push the lifters open, holding a valve open. (Oil pressure is SUPER high on cold oil, and flow is very low - that's why cold atarts are bad for engines). I can usually make our M54 do it by starting it dead cold, running it for maybe 20 or 30 seconds at idleish speeds (mving innto the garage for example after a wash) then shutting it off. When I go to start it next time, it'll sometimes sound like there is no compression at all! I always runt the engine for at least a minute now, and give a few revs to get some heat into it - seems to sto it happening, though it'll sometimes start rough. Never happens if it's run longer, or if the engine is already warm when it's done.

The "radio" is in the boot. The display is just a display really. Swapping it all over is reasonably complex.

It could certainly be worse.... ... or Beige ...

There's a factory manual 540i with about 250K on it in Chch for $8K. The other 22K would pay for a fair bit of stuff... and it won't need doing all at once :-) The two cars won't be in the same league, but I'm not concinved he's too fussed about it selling in a hurry.

FYI - they aren't legal for road use (unless registered as a moped), and you aren't allowed to use them on the footpath (same as bikes etc). To have an assisted "vehicle" and be legal, all you can have is an assisted pedal powered bicycle. The legal limit for assist is 300W, though it's basically impossible for it to be measured accurately Depends if you care about legal or not - I think if you aren't being silly, you can get away with it, but problems will probably happen if something goes wrong! I have an electric Bike I commute on most days (with front wheel assist), and am currently building a longtail cargo bike (with crank driven assist). My commute is only 10km each way, but it's very up and down for half (there is 150 to 180 metres of climbing each way). The assist keeps my average speed up. Tapped out is basically about 35 km/h for me on my super heavy bike. Electric is cool, because it has power regardless of speed and is pretty quiet, where the little petrol motors are noisy and not much go down low. You have to keep getting petrol too - with the electric, I charge it at the end of each trip at home - no having to stop along the way. Costs about 30c (max, if I ran the battery dead flat each trip) a week for the 100 odd kms I do, where my van would be $25 in petrol. My bike is basically the cycling equivalent of the worlds gheyest modern car - the Prius. They're both electric "hybrids" with CVT transmission (for my input, in the bikes case)

matches the parking!

That one doesn't appear to have vanity mirrors in the rear headrests or picnic tables - those are just the ones we can see aren't there from the photos. It does have the extended leather dash, though you could order that on others. The seats in that are pretty standard too - other than heating. There was a 735i on trademe a while back with contour seats - they're pretty rare over here. There is a buttload more than "one or two" available in the country at the moment - Trademe alone has more than that, a LOT more. I'm not sure "unique wood trims" is a clincher for most buyers either - they don't seem to be any less ugly than the more usual ones. One car I had was one of only 34 in the country registered for the road - that was pretty rare, and they come up on trademe every now and then - sometimes there is none for a couple of years though.

Yeah - pretty common

Ooooh... I see Model A's!

Which car?

Does the lever seem floppier sometimes? The detent springs that push the lever back from 5th, or from reverse can stick in their housings, stopping the lever from moving back properly (resting position should be between 3rd/4th). It's usually worse when cold.

http://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/474503-50ish-dollar-paint-job.html conveniently, an Exa is about as curvy as paving stone.

Haha! Pretty much - anything else is just... well... repairing an auto They can be caused by an old battery in an E39 though - maybe the 34 is the same? (That maybe something you want to forget though!)

The M52 2.5 is pretty restricted, the M54 525i (facelift) is quite a bit quicker. 2001 models were facelift, production from 09/2000.

If the noise is absolutely from the front, then there is still any number of things it could be, the obvious ones ebing something in the front suspension. Someone who knows what to look for would need to take a good look around:

I brought a brand new one for NZ$480, shipped from Maf-Shop in Germany. I can't remember the places I talked to in NZ, but none did any more work than the repair - ie they didn't redo ALL the connections to prevent failures of others in the future. Maybe the place mentioned above does? I spoke to BBA reman too - but they rape you on international shipping and don't let you have their "special" prices due to international shipping, and also may say your module isn't repairable, so they were a waste of time A US$99 special on ebay turned into about NZ$500! The original one lasted 14 years, so the new one will probably do similar, even if they haven't improved the design.

Yep had that too... repeatedly - Funny when you start asking for order numbers to go on the invoice for your time spent doing their job, and a lot of my "loud voice" the letters of accusation stop flowing.