Allanw

A manual 320i isn't so bad, but the autos are a waste of time. Hungrier than the 318i AND the 325i, and slower than both in a lot of normal driving.

Actually... that light shows up if the VINs don't match the rest of the car. The milage gets updated regardless of the VINs matching or not.

Maybe... Also... for V8 noise, but very subtle and only when "required" the muffler with no exit can have a hole cut with a hole saw - aja540i did that on his 540i touring and it sounds REALLY good when he pulls away from my driveway. It's never loud or obtrusive/droney, but sounds purposeful. You can either just leave the hole there, or siamese the two outlets together, or make two outlets. I'd recommend the holesaw as a "free" trial at least.

I've owned two Daihatsu Max's... It was getting tempting to repower with a 1000cc motorcycle engine... That's quite an increase from the original 360cc 33PS 2 cylinder 2 stroke There's a wagon version on trade me right now... getting tempted again... It'd weight about 550kg... with me in it... ( 420 without )

Yeah... so what he's saying, is those buttons are for the stuff that doesn't work anymore The cupholders are retarded - buy a "cheap" taiwanese replacement, and they'll last longer than the OEM ones. Then (after you clean all the dust from the AC temp sensor, as seen in your last 2 pics) you can put cold drinks in it, and have the heater go warm, or put hot drinks in to make it go cold, because some silly German person put the sensor right by where your drink goes. Oh yeah, then the drink tips over, because the cup holders ar so short anyway. Yeah - the V8's aren'tn't that hungry really. 9.2 is OK, but you probably weren't trying for your best economy on a run home in a newly purchased V8

Depends if the go switch is up or down...

Maybe showing off the DSC???

http://www.bidbud.co.nz/752153142

Is it the same guy? In your car???

Should have realised from the user name I didn't take part on NASUbarus much, but have had a few of them... and still have an EJ25 in my VW bus... but that'll be an EZ one day too... hopefully a 3.6, but more likely a 3.0. Welcome, anyway!

+1 there. We used them when required, and were absolutly stunned with the service - you don't get some retarded stoned munter who you don't even like LOOKING at your car "looking after" it while you're away. A lot of the places use peoples cars to pickup and drop off (even when it's not the owner sometimes!) Aeropark has dedicated shuttles. I used Aeropark, and the car was in EXACTLY the same place as when we parked it... I'm not even sure we had to leave the keys with them??? (could be dreaming though?) A lot of the reason for their "professionalism" is because the staff are often long termers, and/or are involved in the charitible part of the company - because they are passionate about the Charity, they are professional in their work.

Suggestion: M54's have been known to strip headbolt threads in the block... Usually after over heating though. If it were me, I'd timesert all the headbolt holes (I'd ONLY use Timeserts too - NOT helicoils (which can expand on the way out, and destroy the block, if you ever have to get the head off again)). You can buy the kit (but it's about $500, though you can put about $40 worth of inserts back in, and sell the kit afterwards), or find a machine shop that has one - Someone in Auckland will have one, Shirley

Man - I hope there is some advantage in this for you! Sounds like a LOT of work! Just getting your own parts in cheaply doesn't sound like much reward! Shipping big stuff from the US is (usually) so ridiculously expensive. I wanted to buy a pair of brake pressure switches (under US$20) and shipping was going to be US$54!!!! Then on the other hand, I just ordered some goodies, and a COMPLETE gearbox rebuild kit for the Model A (everything but the case: bearings, shafts, gears, clutch, universal, etc) and shipping was "only" US$180 ish. I was surprised - I was expecting them to email saying shipping was actually US$400 or something stupid. Maybe if I find a cheap M54 supercharger, I'll need to PM you

Auction is up in 20 mins Anyone keen to bid? My mrs would kill me !

BAHAHAHAHA! Sounds like Ripco! I got one in an emergency from Partmaster up here, was in stock, I seem to recall it being $20-something! It's been in for years now too!

Is buying, licensing, WOFing, insuring and maintaining a whole extra car going to save you anything at all??? What economy are you getting now? How many kms are you really doing each week? Someone doing 15K per year at 15L/100kms spends $5175 per year, buying another car, that does 10L/100kms costs $3450 per year. So the replacement car would have to cost $1725 per year to buy maintain, WOF, License, insure, maintain, JUST to break even! If you're in AKL traffic, anything that costs $2K probably isn't going to do much better than 10L/100kms. Buy an electric bike for the bits where you don't need a car Mine costs less than $0.30 per week in electricity to do 100 kms of commuting, plus I get a work out, and only spend about an hour extra per week. No gym fees

Well done! Is it as nice as it looks?

Are you sure it's the wheel bolts? If so, the BBSs must have a recess in the back to clear them (fairly common on some wheels). Otherwise, it can be wrong centre bore on the adapter for the wheels. You want to use the correct bore if they don't match. A decent machinist should be able to shorten the wheel bolts, but make sure they're still safe afterwards.

Sounds like you have bolt on "adapters", yes? You bolt them on, then the wheel bolts on to the adapter? You may be able to machine the heads down, but you can also get low profile bolts. I've got a set, but they're 14mm, I assume you're will be 12mm??

Why do they break the quarterlight? is it BECAUSE it's the hardest to fix, most expensive and most difficult to source??? Bummer dude - at least the car is still there

Shows what he knows... Ask my wife... she'll go

You could take off the rocker cover, and see what's happening. It may be a valve held open, but I don't know if the hydraulic lifters had that much travel (Though I'd never actually paid attention to the lifters!) Don't try too hard yet hopefully nobody dropped anything in a sparkplug hole

Yes - after that they have to be "adapters", but 27mm is the max allowed anyway.

The buyer should change the ownership BEFORE collecting the car and show evidence to the seller, and the seller sends in the sellers part to confirm it it an honest change. I always do it online and change it for the buyer too - complete the whole lot and protect myself! http://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicle/registration-licensing/buying-selling.html http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/factsheets/41/buying-and-selling.html

5 series wheels on an E36 already stick way out, spacers will make them FURTHER out - like Qube says. Spacer/adapter rules: http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/