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Everything posted by BreakMyWindow
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-718115896.htm Would look amazing on some 17" style 5's or era appropriate ACS wheels.
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HB mate!
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Can't go wrong with your collection there Ray. The m coupe has to be the most outrageous hot rod bmw have ever made. I read it was dreamt up and implemented by an engineer at bmw m after normal working hours.
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If the rods are ok, then I would've thought the crank could be removed from underneath - saving the labour of removing the heads etc. Did they mention if there is oil contamination? If there is then you're looking at a full strip down.
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Seems the 'V' configuration S engines are prone to rod bearing issues. There is a lot of debate about what causes it. Some probable causes : - incorrect bearing installation - Bad quality bearings - insufficient lubrication i.e hi revs when engine is cold, or wot running at low revs. - wrong oil viscosity - oil too think to sufficiently lubircate the shells. Becomes a big problem in cold weather. Bad luck Tristan! Would it be worthwhile trying to source a new crankshaft, and rods that got damaged? Or are there shards of metal all through the engine as a result of the issue? s65 coffee table... Mean!
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From the pics, looks like the chassis isn't bent - must've ran in to an SUV. be a pretty cheap repair if diy'ing I reckon.
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The TU is better in the mid-range, and has better fuel economy. definitely go non-vanos if you're making a weapon.
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shoould be very close to 180rwkw with just the 420g connected to it.
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What spare wheels do you use for your e90? or alternatives?
BreakMyWindow replied to ler4_war's topic in General Discussion
Learned my lesson last year. Bolt through one of the rears on the m'way. No sealant kit, just a compressor and some gloves. Had to buy a set of rears $600 later through mates rates, as I had no choice but to drive on a flat to where I was going which was luckily only 2kms a way, but runied the tyre in the process. Bought a genuine AC schnitzer rim and tyre earlier this year and a jack off Ray. I'd rather sacrifice boot space then go through the hassle of trying to repair a puncture on the side of whereeverthef**kiam road or having a towey potentially damage the car even more. -
Cheap motor, with car attached maybe?
BreakMyWindow replied to Palazzo's topic in TradeMe discussions
Got the 5.4l V12 which is a plus! -
I have a fireplace thats supposedly measured to put out 16kw of heat. Runs best on pine to begin with and tee-tree for heat sustain. 3 cubic metres of said wood, and an annual chimney clean is as far as it goes for maintenance. Wouldn't replace with any heat pump :-P
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Even o'seas mint late model 840's are commanding Early 20's ... Not sure if they'd be able to be brought in under the low volume cert. Plenty of fixer uppers in the UK though. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-840-Ci-Sport-Auto-Coupe-/291095906894?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item43c6ab0a4e http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-T-BMW-840-CI-SPORT-INDIVIDUAL-2DR-AUTO-in-YELLOW-/261355611780?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3cda022684
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leather is a better grade, front seats are a bit more supportive.
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Seems like the same owner of this : http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-713053760.htm
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e39 540 rough gear changes in S mode
BreakMyWindow replied to ease2underpants's topic in Maintenance
Have you since tried to reproduce the behaviour of the hard shift at those speeds? If you can reproduce it every time then I'd say something mechanical, or valve body related. Otherwise more heat related. The ZF 5hp24 was used in a few different vehicles i.e jaguar, audi s8, x5. Should be some good info out there. -
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-713053760.htm looks decent, maybe a touch pricey?
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Over it all ready?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-713328244.htm
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Been using them for over 2 years. Have never had a issue with them, very good service, great website layout.
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Update.. Xenons installed and working as they should. Massive difference between xenon and halogen with the e39 facelift headlights. The units i bought had broken adjusters, and a broken adjustment screw on the low beam side. A Few hours over the weekend, involving patience, cursing, and some epoxy glue has done the trick. Any one needing to replace the headlight adjusters in their FL headlights in the e39, PM me and I will happy to assist with the technique to get the job done without the hassle of baking/heating the units to melt the glue holding the front lenses on. Told myself I wouldn't do any mods but have made one mod which will keep the power delivery consistent... Installed an air temp sensor in the corner of the front lower grill, just before the lower air intake tube on the drivers side. Disabled the stock temp sensor in the passenger side MAF. Sucked air temp is now much closer to ambient temp at all times where as before, eg after an hours driving, the sucked air temp was at least 40 deg c higher than ambient, which results in the dme retarding ignition, adding fuel resulting in power loss. The stock temp sensor is incorporated in the MAF, which is exposed to engine bay heat, causing an atrificially high reading of sucked air temps. Thinking about making up a proper CAI setup now, similar to the kit from Evolve automotive in the UK. Seems to be a significant flaw the factory CAI setup, as Evolve have seen gains of 8 - 10BHP just from a CAI setup alone - no remapping.
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And now the internet knows his cell ph number too :-)
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Hey the vb104w was free with the package right? She has a few bugs to be addressed. You should have had one connected using the first fw version haha... If you want German quality, get a Fritz box. Nothing useful in that syslog. You need to look at the dsl stats, check for SES (severely errored seconds) or screen shot it here. What's your sync speeds like? You get what you pay for with cpe.
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Are the other 3 all good? You'll have to do some research to obtain the bbs silver wheel paint code. Otherwise the one wheel will look different to the others.
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Bought a set of used fl xenon headlamps with broken adjusters, and with one of the adjustment screws broken off. Spent the weekend cleaning them up, replacing all broken adjusters (without separating the lenses) and used some 2 part epoxy to re-attach the adjustment screw.
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I need the plastic gears that attach to the adjustment rod as the xenons I bought are missing them on the low beam side for f**k sakes. Can post up a pic if anyones unsure of what I mean.