BreakMyWindow

Happy to report the M5 has got it's mojo back after swapping out the CPS's. The DSC light is now lighting up where it didn't before ;-) Feels like it's gained back an extra 30 - 40hp and a whole lot of torque in the mid range. Seemed to have taken a bout 1/3 of a tank of spirited driving over the passed couple of days for it to wake up. Will be popping it on the same dyno where it did 220 rwkw late last year to compare. Interesting to see that although the CPS's seemed fine (no fault codes, vanos tests passing) they seem to degrade over time, probably due to the numerous heat cycles since 1999.

I'll leave this here...

Really? I used some self-priming high temp paint on my old 540i covers and to this day it's still holding up well.

Job done. Mostly easy if you have the right tools, patience, and don't mind hands that look like they've been mauled by a cat. Took me about 6 hours all up doing it slowly and carefully, with breaks and photo taking. All CPS's were original as verified by the date codes on the parts. No fault codes produced in my ownership for them being bad, so It's a bit of preventative maintenance. There are theories that these do slowly fail before producing a fault code. I guess I'll see in the next while if it's made an improvement. Below are a few notes and pics that should be helpful to those tackling this job. Remove the weather strip and cowling cover that runs along the centre of the lower windshield cover (4 screws that twist and pull out) gives your arms and hands a bit more working room : Remove these 3 hoses running to the heater. About 1 litre of coolant drips out, makes life A LOT easier if you have big mits for hands : Passenger side Intake CPS removed. These are the tools I used to remove it. There is a bracket that attaches the wiring loom box and fuel line bracket to the rear of the cylinder head. It also obstructs the hex screw required to remove the intake CPS - All needs to be removed blind. There is a 10mm bolt right in between the bracket that affixes a cover to the cylinder head - DO NOT remove it, coolant comes out. Very easy to get confused, so getting a good feel for things, and using an inspection mirror goes a long way. In these pics, you can see the hex screw for the passenger side Exhaust cps. This is why life becomes better with those heater hoses removed and tucked in out of the way. Remove the hex screw, and pull the sensor out with the plug connected - Much easier to unplug this way. Over to the drivers side now. The intake CPS is just as much of a c#nt to remove as you have another stupid bracket like on the passenger side in the way. I spent a good hour after trying to get the bracket back in after the cps was swapped out, but gave up. Next time I have access to a hoist I might install back in then. No issues afaik with it not being there for now. Looking at the reflection in the inspection mirror below, you can see the hole for where the car's original intake CPS lived. Tools used to get both intake and exhaust CPS's out, and new ones back in.

Right O. Next on the agenda is to replace these little power robbing, idle unstabilizing, Vanos fault code producing b@stards. The e39 M5 has a total of 4 cam position sensors - 1 for each intake cam, and 1 for each exhaust cam. Unfortunately, they're located on the back of the cylinder heads, and it's a royal PITA to get to them on the passenger side. The intake CPS is located roughly where the arrow points to, but a bit deeper, under a box and a bracket that contains all the wiring to the DME, and Bank 2 ignition coils. Exhaust sensor, deeper and closer to the DME, and obstructed by the heater coolant hoses. Drivers side is a lot easier, I can see both bolts and connectors for the CPS's. Passenger side will be done using a small mirror, a torch but mostly blind. I may get to the passenger exhaust cps from underneath. I don't have spaghetti arms so it's gonna be annoying. Will include some more notes and pics for the keen diy'er when I'm done.

Not sure at this stage.

You should be able to smell it from the drivers seat if they're really bad. Otherwise after a thrash, open the boot and have a smell.

Yep that would've been me. Your E30 is a beaut!

So the consensus here is that the M52 is a solid engine and will go the distance. The problem with this example is that it probably doesn't have an LSD which I suspect will be the 'reason' why the OP does not buy this car.

You're thinking of the 4.6 M62 and 4.8 N62 e53 X5's

haha bet me to it Jooles! back I go in to my e39 troll cave ;-)

That one has been there for a few months now, just re-listed with 1500 knocked off the original asking price. Non-genuine M5 front bumper.. Any one gone to see it? The other Silverstone blue one is still up for grabs too. Problems? Or just un-desirable colour?

The b10 v8s would be the pick of the litter. 4.8 v8 and more torque than a stock m5. Pretty sure u could get one of these in. If an e39 m5 can, the b10 is even more rare.

The wheels look genuine. Worth quite a bit. Pitty it's not M-tech equipped.

There are official instructions out there on the web to do this job.

might be a bit of trial and error that i'm not willing to do on the rear deck, so I'll probably buy a small piece of alacantara and try some light mist coats, as well as dying to see what is best.

Good way to kill some time, and save a few brain cells.

That will destory the Alcantara fabric ?

Wonder if I can buy that wheel, need a spare.

Finally got around to fixng a problem with exhaust fume coming in to the cabin when doing some full-throttle driving. Here are a few reference pics, and notes if you intend on tackling this yourself. The trunk vents are about $12USD each. On all e39 sedans there are 2 trunk vents, they are one-way and are designed to let air flow out from the cabin when the fans are on. When they get old the rubber flaps loose their seal and cause an undesirable smell from the exhaust to enter. The new vents before some labour takes place : The vents are held in by 6 plastic clips, and are near on impossible to remove from inside the trunk, or from underneath in behind the bumper. To install the passenger side vent, the Audio and NAV system needs to all come out as the supporting brackets are in the way. Off comes some trunk trim, the Audio and NAV system, and then finally the rear bumper. There are 3 press-in-type plastic fasteners holding the rear bumper to the rear wheel liner, they are a pain to remove unless you remove the rear wheels. 3 nuts on each chassis leg inside the trunk come off, unplug the PDC sensor, some careful pulling on the bumper and she's off The old vents are removed by pressing in the bottom 3 clips from in between where the bumper sits and the lower rear quarter panel. E39's are getting on so these vents where well stuck even with the lower clips pressed in. A rubber mallet and some hitting did the trick. The old vent about to get the bash : Pic of the old vent removed, and Audio and Nav gear brackets removed, and the wirey mess left behind. Installation of the rear bumper can be tedious with one person, but can be done. The 3 nuts attaching the bumper support to the car can be loosened to adjust how much gap you have between the bumper, and the lower tail panel. Recommend putting some masking tape around the rear quarter panel edges to protect the paint work.

Did it harden the fabric on the shelf? I used some ages ago on my old 540i and it hardened the fabric.

They're no good. Don't have the charcol grey colour I'm after

Anyone know where I could get some cans of fabric spray paint in NZ? I'm wanting to give the sun faded alcantara parcel tray in my car some light mist coats to bring the colour back. thanks!

I think there was some interesting discussion on here about shred. Involving a court case they lost...

A w124 AMG hammer would be my pick. Or a 500e