CamB

I like the NZV8s - quite good racing. However I think this might succeed if the "cost of ownership" is actually lower and the racing is close.

Just complain to trademe and tell them its a previously banned user "strat1". That sort of BS is not on. I think its actually strats son - I sold him the wheels. They are from an e21 - they were actually pretty nice before being fluroed. Mind you, the fluro is kinda cool.

I thought the last suggestion was a good one (flushing clean water through the engine by way of the thermostat). Turn the heater on to hot as well so it flushes the heater core. You could try flushing the radiator separately, although not sure how successful it will be.

I really do hope this works out - seriously. Its awesome when stuff can be achieved on a budget. Longer duration cams mean more overlap and may need a higher static compression ratio to achieve the same dynamic compression ratio. The engine will make more power if it flows more air at higher rpm - if anything restricts it at higher rpm or lowers the VE (not maintaining the c/r would do the latter) ... maybe then it won't make more power. By the way, I've basically surpassed my technical limits about here - further questions may be met with blank stares as I won't know the answer :) A final thought - these guys offer a kit to add Sunbelt cams to an S52B32 which is 5% bigger than an M54B30 (oops - 5% not 6.7% as its 3150cc). They show 265rwhp with the mods listed and track pipes (not cats). For a 3l, thats just over 250hp. I think a US spec S52B32 has 10.5:1 compression ratio. http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerworldsu...m-kit-p749.aspx It will be hard to improve on that. You might pick up a few hp in the headers. Its already got plenty of compression and they're already warning against revving any higher (noting you'll have a diff setup). Another perspective - an S50B32 makes maybe 260rwhp plus any tuning mods. That's from 11.3:1, individual throttle bodies, awesome headers and 7400rpm - ie, 100hp/litre at the crank. Its not easy.

By the way, I'll be delighted if you can get there - will be awesome :D A situation I'd be happy to wrong in.

It doesn't work that way - you'll get more hp from the cams **if** you increase the c/r, not in addition to. Arguably same with the exhaust, unless the std exhaust (and intake - a different issue) isn't a restriction on uprated cams. To put it another way, if you want the 15% on the cams you may *need* to increase c/r, change headers and modify intake. They don't add. If you do reach that power goal, you'll need new injectors, the remap, all the parts including cams - sounds to me like $000s - maybe not $6500 but you could sell your M50 to cover some of it. (edit - and the one David (silverfox) did was 220rwhp, so start there - I guessed a higher conversion factor for Gavin's dyno as my 2002 only made 102rwhp, so surely its a big factor, lol).

Yeah I thought about that (I think it ends up over 3 deg - too much for my needs), or finding some non-Evo M3 ones for a compromise. The ones on there aren't quite worn out yet (they have a little play). I'm saving my money (try pricing some up), . Graham - I also think E36 look (slightly) better as a sedan and I'd buy an E46 M3 sedan in a heartbeat if it existed (or better - a 340i sedan - the car they shoulda made). It's not so much that I love sedans, but my wife has this wierd persistence that I need 4 doors (you can see a baby seat in the first pic). It's not worth the argument...

They're BBS LM089, the centres were powdercoated some silver colour I picked out from ProCoat - its quite a grey silver, and it has clear over it but Westy's right - its not super shiny/reflective. I do need more camber, I should look into some washers as I'm too cheap to do the top of the shock. I don't reaaally need it as I have almost 9 degrees of caster (M3 evo arms AND offset bushes).

Last I saw the one Silver Fox did was about 220hp atw (which is, to be fair, probably over 270hp at the crank and pretty good going). That'll be a full race exhaust though. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....60&start=60 I'm not saying you can't do it, just that it won't be easy. The S50 Brent is selling will be cheaper... (edit) Don't forget 3.2 is 6.8% biggerer, so you could roughly deduct that for a 3 litre rather than a 3.2.

It was apparently exclusive to the Evo sedan (although apparently BMW NZ bought in a few in that colour and had trouble shifting them, haha). Thanks to all for the positive comments by the way.

The H&R Sport for M3 - it lowered the front by about 15-20mm and the back by about 0mm, but they're noticeably stiffer which is what I wanted. I didn't want it too low as I've got judder bars and driveways in my life. The Byzanz definitely grew on me - I definitely like it now.

Well, on impulse I took the M3 out just before sunset and had a crack at some photos. The main reason was that I've got new wheels on and had just clicked the centre caps in... if I'd planned ahead I would have cleaned it It's an E36 M3 Evo sedan, Byzanz Metallic (aka German Racing Brown, or perhaps ginger), H&R springs, Bilstein shocks and BBS LMs in 17x8, refinished with polished and reverse mounted outers - I'd guess this makes them about 30-32p offset (not the 41p they started at). Photos are in the order I took them - too lazy to decide a better order. I'm quite pleased with how they came out really, although it's definitely still amateur hour ... Free ad for Hitech Brake and Clutch - I bought a piston for the front calipers from there. Found an FD2 - newest Civic Type R - on Dominion Rd. I like them (feel free to disagree) Close up of the wheels.

Does is need a sway bar with those bad boys??

RUST. Being in Aussie helps though

I'd agree **especially** if the shocks have done a few km.

Whiteline in Australia list something: http://whiteline.com.au/do_segue.php?make=...+10%2F01-7%2F05 You can get Whiteline here. Doesn't look much cheaper. I have no opinion on what's best for your car - hopefully someone with one will post.

One large one I reckon - the bigger fans move more CFM (if you look at specs), probably because one 14" fan has roughly the same total coverage area as two 10" fans but less unutilised area due to the motor.

I can't see how you'll get more than 250hp at the crank (refer US S52 which is basically a hotted up M50). But that's just me.

It's quite a lot of money really - I'm not sure that rare = good. You don't have to save much more to buy an M3...

Did you try the topic at the top of the Maintenance forum you posted this in? http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=34845

I watched a little NASCAR qualifying on the w/end (yeeeehaawwwww). Any dinosaur engine cracking 9,000rpm is good by me (and on a carburetor!).

Do you only drive downhill! To the OP, some of the people with 318 thirst problems would have a bigger one with a bigger engine. Its a driving style issue - too much accelerator and brake.

Do you have any pics of the refurbed wheel?

I think your max power is going to be about what the M3 engine had (280-290hp at the crank) - you'll match it if you can get the compression up, similar cams, revving past 7k AND the headers/intake/head flow enough. Its a big ask.

Interestingly, you can run any spacer you like on a race car up to 30mm (IIRC). Anyone know where to get longer bolts? I need ones that are about 3mm longer (no spacers... but wheels have a thicker mounting surface).