CamB

That's an awesome tirade. It's also at best half true and sort of misses the point. Most of all, they are something special - its just a somewhat acquired taste, LOL.

Sounds like its in the ballpark, and you have a little bit to lose (as far as ratio goes), and I am sure you'll have enough steering angle for a race car (just don't go drifting, ok :D)

A much more important factor is matching the **travel** of the rack - no point in having 2.5/3.25/whatever turns if it can't turn your wheels from (the old) full lock to full lock and you have the turning circle of a truck. For instance (and I can't remember the details), one of the Z3 racks is the same ratio as the E36 rack, but fewer turns lock to lock ---> it just gives less total steering angle. When swapping racks, the key is to ensure the tie rod attachment point (I think its called the kingpin) is the same on the donor car and your car. If its further from the strut, you get less steering angle per turn of the wheel (and vice versa). Actually, key points as I understand them are: - rack should have tie rod ends attach to it at same distance as the box's tie rod ends attached to the pitman arms (avoid changing ackerman angle and, I think, bump steer) - rack should be mounted at the right height to ensure there is no change in the relationship of the lower arms and steering arms, to avoid bump steer. - rack should have same travel, or you will need to change the point at which the tie rods attach to the struts to match the donor vehicle, to ensure you get enough steering angle Note: - I actually don't know that much about suspension geometry, so anyone feel free to correct me.

How does the length of the tie rods on the rack compare to the length of the tie rods coming off the pitman (I think that's what they're called) arms for the box? (edit) and while I am at it, how's the other geometry look (eg, arms roughly parallel with the lower control arms)?

I'm no fan of the shark mouth, but I met a dude once who just painted rust kill on his 60s beetle when it rusted. It was kinda awesome.

I can't find if its sanded back and oiled, or rust with rust kill painted over. Either way, I like it. The rust pained me.

I agree! I hadn't seen the pics and that shows a degree of analness that is stunning.

Always get an older 911 checked out by a specialist, preferably a specialist in that age of Porsche (ie, not necessarily the dealer). 230hp in 1100-1200kg is pretty fast. It's not devastating, but its still quick.

I'm not sure there are that many better deals - there won't be many cars that are faster and more reliable on track.

Those Nissan racks do looks promising. Its not just needing to be rear mount and the number of turns lock to lock - the tie rods need to attach the same distance from the bottom of the strut to ensure the same steering angle per turn (if that makes sense), then the tie rod ends may need spacing downwards to avoid bump steer. Anything can be sorted with enough effort though.

And a very, very clean one. I wish it looked like that at the moment - have been slack for a few weeks!!! I am pleased to announce that it will have a new water pump by the end of the day (started growling on the way to work this a.m.). I am less pleased to announce that M3 water pumps are 3x the price of non-M3 ones .

Ex-UK, so be sure to check it for rust. It looks very well cared for.

RB is not a bad idea - at least the exhaust is away from the steering.

I kinda like to think of it as Ol' Ginger.

I've never taken a photo of it, but this was a photo the previous owner sent me.

Yeah I like the interior. The non-Vader seats grow on you - they're comfortable/supportive, and you can't see them when you are sitting in them. I have the 6 speed wood gearknob at home he needs to complete the look, LOL (the first thing I did was buy a leather one). I also changed the steering wheel from the 4 spoke to the 3 spoke... but not that 3 spoke (the later one), as the 4 spoker was a horrible looking thing. Mine is unmistakeably brown, and I guess I can no longer take the self-righteous position of thinking mine is the best 4 door one around since that looks to be in better condition (and lower km and only 1 owner). I love the BMW boot floor protector (I have the front mats). I would sell mine without a moments hesitation for that kind of money (or even that kind of money less some haggling), if anyone's looking - 127k km, new Bilsteins, new alarm and fully reconned air con (as well as all the generous amount of general maintenance that an M3 requires).

I've got a 3.46 ratio I can swap (just the ring and pinion), if you're keen.

How about one of these for that money - you can prolly get a good price : http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-254742924.htm

I have a screwdriver like the one in the bottom right of the link below. It lives in my "awesome" tool drawer, reserved for those tools that do a task that no ordinary tool can do. http://www.tradezone.co.nz/catalogue/produ...mp;productid=75

There's no way the locating rings bear the weight of the wheel - they're often plastic. There are many reasons why spacers are NOT dangerous (you can get them with German TUV approval, so they must be safe, Porsche continues to supply spacers as a factory option, they are legal for racing). Either way, in NZ you need a cert for spacers/adapter (unless spacers are approved by the car/wheel or hub manufacturer), and up to 20mm they can be spacers but must be hubcentric and attach to the wheel or hub, or between 20 and 27mm they have to be "adaptor" style" (and hubcentric).

Woohooo!!!! You've finally seen the light! Also, less bad suspension geometry when its only a bit low rather than sacked. I don't think its ugly. I think it's purposeful. The colour is currently my favourite on an E30.

Yes, although it may be marginal on legality. Henry - that **looks** like understeer (I realise it might not be).

So can an M10. Thanks BMW.

Hmmm, unfortunately am home from work now ... asked the question of her and DENIED. Sheeesh. Apparently marriage is a compromise.

Geez, I promised myself if your car was ever for sale I'd buy it. Of course, I didn't consult my missus when making that promise. I don't think you should sell unless you expect you'd want to do another project inside the next ~2-3 years. In my opinion, you would struggle to get a better offer than the $25k, so if you think you'll get itchy feet for a project and want to sell it then (potentially for less) ... by all means sell. Otherwise - keep it! (edit - or swapsies for an E36 M3 + cash, shhh, don't tell my wife)