CamB

I wouldn't count on 3rd making up for it. I found that at Taupo, where I am between 2nd and 3rd a lot, that the dirty old M10 torque made me almost as quick in 3rd despite the gear being obviously unsuitable for a couple of the corners (it was in the order of 0.5 seconds per lap slower). I consider an M20 to be pretty torquey to be honest. Basically the shorter ratio is a band aid - what you really need is better gears (anyone got $3k plus hanging around?).

I agree - a 4.10 would help acceleration nicely. I had a 4.27 in the 2002.

Nathan - as I understand it, as long as they meet the inservice requirements (in the post above) they are fine - that means swaged or crimped ends and it probably means a protective coating. I don't think they focus on any stamp/marking any more. They have changed the rules a few times though, so I am not 100% confident on that.

If you modify previously certed brake components it might - does it apply if they are still standard. These are the WOF rules:

Not sure the slotted brakes or braided lines need a cert, but if you already have one the lowering will.

Just to clarify, is the question "how do I turn the ignition far enough to allow removal of the barrel when it has been ruined by a screwdriver and the key doesn't work"? I don't know the answer, but I wish I did yesterday at Pickapart.

Electrical gauge problems (assume its electrical) are often dodgy grounds.

Are you confident a third box is going to fix it? They're not a consumable!!

Plus you need to get it aligned if you do the M3 bushings (which are totally worth it). To the OP - you need to find out if its the outer ball joint or inner.

Spacers are expensive - that's partly why not everyone does it. I suspect 4x100 --> 5x114 would have hole overlap, which is a no-no.

His questions imply massive scope creep!!

I agree it would be a good mid-field car (and personally wouldn't ever aspire to higher).

It still has the sub-standard rear suspension design though. I'd take the weight of a sedan/coupe in exchange for good rear suspension personally.

David - personal opinion but I think you'd be hard pressed to get an E28 (or E30) handling well enough to make that happen without spending a LOT of $. There'll be a point where extra power gives diminishing returns given the compromises in the pre-E36 chassis... Ollie: The E46s V8s that RaceFX are building are clearly targeting Open Series leading times, so that probably gives an idea of the level of spec required. An E36 M3 would be the cheapest (and I use that term loosely) way, in my opinion. If you are thinking about getting a car built up, do a really rough "back of the envelope" on the cost (without contingencies) then double it. (edit) A further thought, and as a "for instance" - I would expect that *all* (happy to be corrected) the really fast cars have serious race shocks, meaning $6-10k on shocks (just the shocks, not the suspension).

Well, I used to work in the Axis Building in Parnell and one of the guys who lived or worked there had one. It seemed to need the tow truck to come and take it away to be fixed less than the Jensen Interceptor he had before that.

I'd only buy it if the conversion is really well executed. A cert helps on that count, and from the photos it looks pretty good. I reckon a CA18DET in an E30 would be mint - light(ish), revs hard and pretty good power.

Give him a ring then - chances are so early in the auction that he got an offer he couldn't refuse. You could always make a better one.

Looks ... ugly. But we already knew that. The lack of lag is interesting - its not that surprising as its two smallish twin scroll turbos with the most efficient exhaust routing to maximise spool. Its pretty cool and only possible coz the turbo's are in the valley.

Gotta be a rota. That's my guess. Any sign of damage to the pistons from the time as a turbo?

Fair enough - its a good backup plan (one I hadn't thought of to be honest!) Price up a brake upgrade before committing - its never cheap.

Trailer for both, and for the road car: brakes (I'd do a brake upgrade for 500hp), tyres ... etc

Don't forget with 20mm spacers you need to make sure you have suitable low profile bolts or tiny studs and nuts. @ 20mm, its hard to do, so 25mm might be easier (you might get away with the standard bolts).

On the M3, I'm pretty sure I only got to 9 deg (or 8.x) with the combo of both Evo lower control arms and strut tops, AND the offset bushings. With that much caster, the steering is ... weighty. I'd have no idea whether it has enough camber, I don't drive it fast enough to stress the tyres, haha. I have only about 2 deg on the 2002 and I only wear the outside of the front tyres significantly at the track when I drive badly (understeering into the corners by going in too hot) or have the wrong tyre pressure.

I wouldn't trust the TM guy's offset #. JiB, who has 20mm adapters from 4x100 - 4x114, has already spent time drooling over these. He already has a set of Volks and a set of SSRs, so couldn't bring himself to go another set he doesn't need. He tried to convince me for the 2002 (I am unwilling to run adapters with turbo tho').

O R A N G E A fantastic e12 colour.