CamB

$7 ea, personally. I'd want odds = expected value. Possibly less, as I couldn't get a pre purchase inspection.

Fixed.

I think the problem is usually when people do "cheaper" rather than "better". I accept that as a general concept (not everyone is made of money), but not when you're going down the path with a $8k engine.

Plus the shroud is there for a reason - to make sure the fan can do its job. I think people underestimate the importance of making sure airflow occurs properly.

Cooling system - radiator flow and oil cooler size. That's my bet (with your money!)

The massive brake kit is awesome but: - US$750 plus shipping is going to be $1200ish - you'll be pinged for GST @ $150 - a cert is $450 That's $1800, and that's only the front... and you'll still need rear rotors, pads and braided lines.

Colour may be holding demand back. Other than that, we are in a recession, and an M3 sucks down the gas ---> neither help.

If anything I think altitude might make it run rich if you are only using Alpha-N ---> less dense air than mapped for at sea level = richer?

That's what I reckon. $35k plus (although not necessarily much). Would depend for me almost entirely on the service record...

Unless there's some nastiness I would have thought the auction estimate is a little low.

Are you confident that both the radiator and oil cooler are getting good airflow? Ideally, they'll have ducting to (a) make sure air is getting to them and more importantly (b.) make sure any air that gets to the radiator/cooler goes through it (ie, can't get around it). Also, do you have an oil temp sensor?

No to the bolt on calipers question. While Jappa calipers are cheap, by the time you've bought new rotors and had them redrilled, pads, a new master cylinder, new wheels to clear them and got a cert its a $2-3k exercise. Braided lines help a lot, if your existing rubber lines are old and expanding a little under pressure.

That e21 is hot. I fully dig the colour scheme.

I don't think Carroll Shelby was au fait with turbo's when he said that

You can do it - its an easy job (although the diffs are HEAVY so be careful). 12x allen head bolts (clean the heads out, use the proper tool), 4x on the driveshaft, and the diff's mounting bolts... Reassemble, and make sure the allen bolts in particular are properly torqued up (personally, I check them after driving for a bit). (edit) I paint a line across each of the bolts, from the flange to the head of the bolt, and visually check none have come undone. Its on the race car, so I feel justified for being a bit anal as the consequences of getting it wrong are kinda stink.

Nice jack handle!

I'm guessing from this you've never driven a 2002!!!!! A good 2002 steering box is pretty bad.

The wood trim is making me cry. I am so glad I only have the door handles (I changed the gear knob).

I agree - that seems to be about the going rate for the wrecked car (dunno - ask 1quad1) and you might as well have the opportunity to use/sell the other bits...

That's particularly stealthy in black. Good for sneaking up on unsuspecting boy racers...

Those extra pics are awesome - thanks. The closest you'll find to that around the internets is Craig (user name 2002 here) - he has an e30 subframe mounted similarly. He has no pics on bimmersport but there are some hiding on www.bmw2002faq.com (Craig's user name is tomorrowcalling there). They come up if you search for "subframe" and user name "tomorrowcalling". By the way, apparently E9 5 stud hubs fit on a 2002 strut (same bearing size). I reckon that since you are clearly good enough at fabricating you should go for the whole e36 subframe / engine. You'll need to make new strut towers too, I think.

Do the m44 - getting the E36 box to work with the M10 would be a lot of work... maybe convince the M44 to run on the carbies to keep it a little old school. That's awesome work on the subframe mounts - do you have better detail pics?

Yeah, I worded what I said carefully coz I am not sure what you'd need to work safely with the E30 strut top.

You'll still need some sort of top hat suitable for the springs and a strut top that works with the top hat.

You can get the bits locally, although its not cheap. George Stocks have them.