CamB

Even awesomer than expected. So shiny. Love where you've gone with the wing - faithful to the Tech 1, lol @ your interpretation.

I see from your other thread that you're going to try a new ICV - its actually just an "auxiliary air valve" - its only job is to let air bypass the throttle when the engine is cold, and it closes up as the engine heats up. It doesn't actually control the idle. It also sounds like your problem, so good luck. If Ray doesn't have one (which I am sure he does), I have one somewhere. Once you have a good one in there and working, you can probably turn down the warm idle (screw on the throttle body, IIRC). If it screws in all the way and the idle is still too high, find the intake leak.

Under brakes or all the time?

Huge and AWESOME project. I love V8s.

Do you have some snow to plow? LOL.

Well that's good to know

Oh I see - I didn't join the dots on the earlier post to figure out it was Whiteline who f$%#ed up. Its a shame - I reckon Noltec products are (were?) pretty good and cheap.

The Whiteline catalogue on the internet doesn't have the diff bush but it does have E30/Z3: W92964 - subframe bushing W62187 - control arms Based on previous experience, price is for a "kit", which means a pair of bushings (or, based on the catalogue, 4x bushings for the rear control arms).

Has anyone hit up the Whiteline people to see what they can do (Whiteline bought Noltec).

Yes, I probably wasn't clear. I mean the fuel regulators you can buy which increase the fuel pressure faster than the boost pressure. It seems the proper name is FMU, eg: http://www.superchargersonline.com/product...=fuelsystem_fmu Either way, my personal view for the original poster is ... don't use them and do it properly.

I lol'd. (edit) and from gpforums, I lol'd again:

Mmmmmmm, googlestalking. Number in Q&A: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=217993962

Very true. Mind you, I drive an E36 M3, so clearly performance and not looks or history matter to me.

Don't think they made an s2 avant. I know the RS2 has 300+hp - I still remember there was a line in the magazine article about it when it came out, praising the performance and criticising the fuel economy (something about it making OPEC happy). Remember this was when fuel economy didn't really matter...

Internets tells me they made like 11,000 of them, but only 2,000 of the RS2 Avant. Same engine. I know which one I'd choose for $40k. Also pretty sure the last UR Quattro I saw for sale was ~$25k.

Oh I see - you only meant the E36. I thought there might be a magic way for the E30. Never mind.

Bump for answer please. Don't be shy.

Possibly some sort of air injection - you get around emissions problems by injecting fresh air into the exhaust.

M3 water pump, tensioners and transmission oil. $1400.

How does it go?

Yeah, RS2 - the Porsche fettled wagon one. Awesome. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audi_RS2_Avant

And for when you have forced induction, under boost the regulator allows increased fuel pressure to match the boost. The standard regulator is fine in almost all cases. You would use: - an adjustable one (or a higher rated one) where you wanted to change the fuel pressure (eg, keep the same injectors after making adjustments to the engine which increase the fuel requirement in a way that the computer can't account for). People often use them in conjunction with an aftermarket chip or computer so that they don't have to buy new injectors; or - a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, when you want to try and run forced induction without changing the ECU. The rising rate means it increased the pressure faster than the boost increases.

Maybe it needs to be put simply that you have to be very, very careful about rust. I've done stuff to 3 cars that were ex-UK. All 3 way rustier than equivalent NZ cars.

PM JiB and ask what deal he got on his race car - was under 21 when they signed him up (I think, and not by much). Its a few hundy a year and 5,000km limit. Am pretty sure it is Classic Cover - http://www.classiccover.co.nz/ - they insure my race car for not much too, but I'm old.

So camber generally increases as you lower it, with the rate of increase higher when the lower control arm is below parallel? Isn't that sorta what has been discussed all along? So how was that?