CamB

What does the ignitor box say on it (brand and part numbers).

OK, that's curious. So are you using an ignitor? (ignore what I said in earlier posts about multiple ignition channels by the way - it seems that's not how MS works unless it is specifically built with multiple coil outputs).

Have been looking at the megasquirt manual and megatune - works different to what I thought (despite having read it before!). I have the way my Link works in my head. So, did the megasquirt you have bought run with the GM setup or an ordinary coil when it was last used?

Wait wait. Lets confirm what you've done first. So - you have a megasquirt setup for 3x ignitors and 3x dual post coils. You have, instead, hooked up 1x megasquirt ignition output to 1x ignitor, yes? If so, 2 questions: 1) what did you do to the other 2x ignition output wires? 2) can you check spark on all six plugs - there is a possibility that 2x are working, and all you have to do is change a setting or two in megatune so its using 1x ignition output not 3x.

Showoff!! - extrapolating from where JiBs car go to, that would be approx 6 degrees camber.

Well I'd expect wasted spark will have 3x ignition connections coming out of the ECU to the igniter box (one for each coil), while you only want one, so until you can get into Megatune to change the configuration I'm not sure its going to work even if you can wire it up right. FWIW, I bought a pair of twin post coils and an ignitor box from a 4 cylinder 1993 Mitsi Lancer GDI for $34 from PickaPart, which is what I plan to use. I believe there are 6 cylinder GDI engines which a 3 coil setup?

I'm not sure it should be $5k on a 964 either - I suspect he needed a new dual mass flywheel too at that price (not going to be an issue on an early car - resurfacing is possible). Either way, mechanically and electrically a 964 is significantly more complex than a 911 SC (2 generations --> like e21 vs e36). They just look the same.

It's simply that nothing beats old-timer and/or constant experience when it comes to a quirky car like an old Porsche.

If you're set on it and it has a signoff from a specialist, and won't sting you on repair bills ... why not. 3 pieces of new advice: - make sure it has decent tyres - do not lift the throttle mid corner because you went in too fast - do not lift the throttle mid corner because you went in too fast (hint - don't go in too fast) Free fourth bit of advice. Get used to shifting slowly and deliberately ---> do not miss a gear (its easy to do), refer to comment above on engine rebuild cost.

Just looked at the pic again - I see it's ex-USA (you can tell from the headlights as well as LHD), and looks in the pics like an average respray. LHD affects value. Note - the slightly older 2.7 litre cars (eg 911S) are inferior, as the engine has other problems (unless expensively addressed), and they are more likely to be rusty as not galvanised as extensively (or at all, if older). That's why they are cheaper on Trademe.

Geez misinformation is rife in this thread. In particular, a clutch is not $5k. I better add to it! Don't take it to Continental for an inspection - take it to someone who sees the aircooled cars every day (eg Motorscience in Grey Lynn). 99% of old Porsches is very durable, if maintained well. Since they're well engineered, they stand up to a good thrashing (if warm). They are simple, and relatively easy to work on (although its a brave man who goes near the engine). Some parts are very expensive, almost all stuff is available - basically the good news is you rarely have to replace stuff on a well maintained car, the bad is it is costly. Check for rust. It will have a 915 gearbox not the aforementioned Getrag, and it will either shift badly or terribly. They're never good. They leak oil, unless you replace every seal (which would cost a sh1tload), although they leak less when used regularly. Speaking of oil, they have a lot of it - >10 litres for an oil change, and you really should do it every 5,000km for a long engine life. The filter is $50. The car will smell of oil - it leaks into the heating system - I quite like it. The only "common" fault on an SC I am aware of it broken head studs - there are 24 studs holding the 6 heads to the crankcase and the originals can snap from fatigue. It's not a common problem per se, but is the only fault which is more common to SCs. If anything is wrong with the engine, a proper rebuild starts at about $10k. Seriously. I dunno - its not really a car for a student. I tend to think of them cars that were $250k new and with the potential maintenance bills for a $250k car. Short version - get it checked by a specialist who sees old cars. Not Conti or Giltrap, even if they tell you they see old cars.

Greg. - I agree, probably way more power than an M3, now I notice it has 1600cc injectors... However, I'd be surprised if it regularly ran a boost setting for more than ~400hp, and 300hp/400hp/500hp - they're all big numbers. How often do you find yourself driving your car thinking "good car, handles well, just wish it had a bit more grunt"? Lumpy idle for rotary is because if you port it (the equivalent on a rotary of changing the cams) you get more power, both NA and boosted.

If its not too late, use urethane.

Can you give a run-down on what works well for which job - they have, even by car-cleaning product companies, a very large range of products.

Good pics I'm satisfied now. I've found the shocks can really tune the handling - 1/4 of a turn makes a big difference, especially at the front.

You don't want this - installation would be a major job (you'd have to convert to fittings) and its not a good idea (its rigid, not flexible and you'll still need some sort of rubber couplings). You could try blue pushlock hose from a performance shop, although you'd need to find it in the right size, which could be 8mm - 5/16" (not common). Its also potentially not rated to the right pressure, although that doesn't seems to stop people using it.

Well, I am laughing. 1 wheel skidz too no doubt. I don't have any objection to a rotary in an E36, other than to note that they want more than $15k and you can get a perfectly good M3 for that sort of money, which won't be much less powerful.

It is a setup though

Actually I thought about it some more - for what you want I guess you need to move the perch down. If you're happy where it is then Don't go too crazy on the camber. No need even with R-compounds.

So, you need to cut the struts?

Umm, might be my eyes, but there is no silicone hosing in that picture. Blue wires are ignition leads and throttle cable.

Curious as to why? I've used it. I like it very much, in a guilty "it takes no work but looks good and lasts for a long time" kind of way. Sort of seems to be too good to be true.

Take a photo! Both of you, LOL.

Have used Pacer Painter's Delight to dress trim and interior. It's crap. Major haze on interior. Very short life on exterior. No experience with other products.

I would just like to add that I am uber-keen to see this on its wheels, quite aside from the other debates. I want pics! That is all.